05.Banshee.SE

I won't be riding for a while w/o my rebuild and stuff. At least that'll give it time for the prarie to dry up a bit.

Do a leak down test too, it's similar to a compression test.

Yeah

Check your PMs man!! I've been looking for the sticker in your sig forever.

With a compression gauge. You can find one at Napa, or a local mechanic can probably do it for cheap. Buy one, you'll be using it enough for the cost to be worth it. Get the bike warm, take a plug out, plug in the gauge, kick it over a few times WOT until the gauge stops rising. (6-7 kicks is normal I believe?) Repeat for the other side. There should be no difference, or very little in lbs. between cylinders. If they are off by more, something is wrong. You should comp check it before and after you install it.

CPI will be good for dunes...they have a lot of top end pull I've heard. T5s are really nice pipes, and at an alright price, so don't overlook those. I believe CPIs are generally a good amount more expensive than the Toomeys. If you are going to do some port work, go with T5s or CPIs for sure. A NOSS or Pro Design Coolhead will be good too, and get some domes. For the V Forces, get VF3s. What's your elevation?

I plan on sending mine to Kevin to have the top end done, and probably an aggressive trail port, once I have the money. It's my first rebuild, but I trust him.

93 octane, Yamalube 2R, 32:1. Never failed me with the Blaster. It never failed me before with the 'Shee either. I'm going to leave it at the plug being installed incorrectly for now.

I like DMC 916s, but I will be running T-5s.

I printed it out and bound it in a nice book. :thumbsup:

I think I'm going to send the top end out to HJR if it ends up having to be done, and probably port it while it's out there. When it comes back, I will probably have Cypress Cycle (On Oaks and Immokalee in Naples) put the mods on that I can't do.

I think the compression check was innaccurate too... It usually starts on the first kick and everything. Idk, I'm still trying to locate another gauge.

Is it possible my stock timing is off that much? I know the guy I picked the bike up from put new plugs in not to long before I bought it, since he was trying to sell it. I really believe it wasn't installed to specification.

I'm not to suprised by the comp test to be honest... I have a good amount of hours on it, and was planning to rebuild soon. I was hoping it wouldn't be THIS soon. About 85% of the hours I'd say are regular trail riding, and 15% being race/messing around. I bought it used with low hours. (The guy had nowhere to ride, and kept it in his shed. His son mostly drove it around the neighborhood, and in the yard which was not very big.) I don't think it even saw a trail before I got a hold of it.

Bad news...the cold comp test registered about 90psi on each cylinder! I feel my wallet shrinking... Edit- I'm going to get a second compression check from another gauge when I get a chance. May not be til it hits the shop.

I'm going to hope the spark plug wasn't installed to specification. Edit- My first post is all what I think happened. I have no idea if that's exactly how it went, with the plug backing out and such, but it sounds logical.

It's all stock right now. Is there anyway I can start it and warm it up to at least do a comp test? I have some spare engine ice left...all I need is it warmed up for 5 minutes... I'm afraid it will do more damage though. A cold comp test won't be that accurate. Other than not installing it correctly, why would a plug back out? I won't have such a hot running bike once I bring it to the shop. I'm having a cool head, domes, exhaust, pods, tors removed, all that stuff, so it will run much cooler. Edit-- I might just have a top end rebuild when I bring it in too.

Thanks for the fast response. I will throw that in with a compression test. On a scale of 1-10, how bad do you think the damages could be? (Obviously no one knows for sure yet.) Within minutes of the boil over I had it in the bed of my truck, running through the back roads of Florida at about 80mph with a hell of a lot of cool wind flowing through it.

I was dragging last night at the local 1/8th mile. I warmed up the bike, then made a smooth, clean pass, not pushing the bike to far. Then I made some fast runs, fastest I've ever done. I was pushing the bike so hard that a plug broke loose a bit, and I didn't realize it. I let it cool down for a while, then I got bored of racing and started messing around a bit in an open field. I guess while winding it out, the plug backed out even more. I stopped messing around, and parked it, letting the bike (and myself) rest, because I was beat. Then I see a friend from about an hour and a half away, on his modded 'Shee at the track, and he wanted to run. So, I decided to, not using good judgement. Being my last run of the night, I decided to spin my tires (to get dirt and water off too.) I ripped through the gears, and the plug backed out even more. I let off the brake, and ride out my burn out to the light. I noticed it had a bog, and it was really hot. Since it's Florida, and I was wearing full riding gear from the Gixxer, I didn't think much of it. I go, and bog, and have a horrible run. I know at this point something HAS to be wrong. (I was about 2 whole seconds off my time.) I bring it over, and kill it. Seconds later, I hear a hiss, and it boils over, with steam pouring out. I was to afraid to restart it because of what was happening, and I knew I should have rode it out instead of shutting it down. But I shut it down before it boiled over. (I run Engine Ice.) Anyways: What all do I need to check for damage? I am going to drain all the coolant, and flush the system. I am going to order new plugs. I am going to inspect the parts of the bike I can see for damage. I am going to inspect the radiator and it's hoses. I am going to check the shitty stock impeller, and order a billet one. I will be parking the bike for about a month, and I'm bringing it to the shop to have all my mods installed. I am going to have them check the cylinders and rings too. What else is there?

I'm not going to argue that ported stocks are better than VF3s, that's just not true. This is my thought proccess: I spend $300 on VF3s, and see a snappier throttle. I spend $50 on ported cage w/ reeds, and see a snappier throttle. Is the minimal gains worth $250 more? That's up to the consumer. I'd rather have ported stockers, and put the extra cash towards a port. Already ported? Then I guess get VF3s.

Oh yeah, TORS is a bitch. If you have it...get rid of it.

When was your last leak down test? When you do a compression test, you should also do a leak down.

Don't adjust the screw just yet!!!!!!!! 1. Air Filter (Said you already did) 2. Plugs <----------- 3. Jets (Said you already did)

Assuming your compression is right on for stock, or close, then 20cc domes will put you comfortably in the 93 octane range. If you ran 19s, your bike would probably be wanting race fuel. You can run 21s or 22s if you want...but I wouldn't. If I could pull off 20s instead of 21s, I'd do it. [based on your elevation.] :thumbsup:

Temperature and humidity fluctuations did that to me. I'd check everything, and find nothing wrong with the bike...then I marked it down as the humidity fluctuations due to recent storm activity (I live in FL so it's pretty dramatic.) How does your air filter look? And your plugs? Are your jets clean? Jets can clog up fast.