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So now that I have found I am going to have to run higher octane fuel... Im considering upgrading, I kind of want to split the cases again to do a real nice polish job so... How much is a stock true/welded crank, Wiseco Pro-lite pistons, and aggressive trail ported cylinders worth I was thinking around 500-600 (hopefully) beings the fact that all these parts havn't even been ridden on yet.

Yeah now that you mention it I remember hearing about it, but never really payed too much attention. I'll probably start going to ADB and buying trick fuel (as much as I hate to give them anymore business). But yeah I'll just do a check when I get it together I just wanted some other opinions on the whole octane thing. Im pretty sure Ill have to run race fuel, how much of a power gain will I see from running my 20cc domes and running 100-106 octane fuel instead of 21 or 22 cc domes and 90 octane fuel

Yeah taking off the air box will help. I'd start at 300 mains and work your way down. Yeah you pretty much do got to do a plug chop to get it dialed in, but they're pretty cheap so it's worth it to make sure your jetting is right

Ok so I was at the gas station earlier today and I never really payed attention to the octanes, well the supreme gas here is 90 octane WTF? Im pretty sure at 0-500 ft. above sea level, 20cc domes and +4 timing I'm going to need a higher octane fuel... so can you guys give me an estimated compression(since I won't be putting the motor back in the frame for another month so I can't break it in and test it yet), what octane you guys think I should be running, and a good octane booster to use.

Just call some people and find who your comfortable, but don't worry about price. I'd talk to Brandon (Slobanshee06) He does great work and is super helpful, even after he's done your work.

What he is saying is if you build it for drag or dune you want a peaky like power band, think of a tall steep mountain, but on trails you want a more controlable longer power band like a long rolling mountain, yeah you won't have quite as much power but your not talking the difference between lets say 70 and 90 it would be more like 78 and 85 (hypethetical numbers). In tight trails and mx tracks you really don't need all the power in the world so you build a smooth long power band. That is why I didn't see a need for a 4mil in my motor, because all I do is ride tight trails with some open trails and occasional small hill climb for fun. In this case if you were to have Brandon do your work (Slobanshee06, which is a great choice and after my build the only one I will send my motor work to anymore) he would go with an agressive trail port and push the limit of where long and smooth meets peaky. Hope that helps

It's funny I saw the track kit in an ATV mag. for the 4x4's and was thinking if you only buy 2 tracks in stead of all 4 the shee would be great for in the winter, that's cool that someone made a kit. Hey regal I think its time for a new sled, I've ridden 700 pound sleds in powder and it sucks shit, especially when you get stuck it takes you half a day to get the darn thing out been there done that.

Thanks Darol, Im pretty sure I can run a lock up cover on a stock clutch, the only difference is the lock up is cut for clearance.

Thats what I was looking for. Thanks guys for all your help :smile:

Yeah I was talking about the whole cover, thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind but Im looking for a billet one for now

There charging me around 250 to have the frame, swingarm, hubs, and heel guards... sand blasted, 5-7 stage, heat cleaning, and coated

I need to know where to get a billet clutch cover some how cracked it and fixed it with putty so I need a new one for my build, I've been able to find pretty much every other billet part than that, sorry if this is a dumb question.

There is a pretty big difference, because your gaining power from the 4mil crank, plus you have to get your cylinders ported for it and use forged pistons and you upgrade the carbs, etc. so if it was just the crank there wouldn't be a a huge difference, but everything else that you have to do along with it there will be a night and day difference. I would say just run the -1 and see how bad it is if it is then find a stocker

Nice set up bro, I almost went with the 4mil, can't really remember why I didnt but first excuse I get to split the cases thats where I'm going. The only thing I can suggest is go with a plastic case saver, there was a post like a week ago about the billet ones causing more damage sometimes when the chain breaks

Damn NYUK your caliper is blinding, you got a hella nice bike

Do you mean silver/grey plastics, and blue frame... because if thats what your talking about, I have silver/grey plastics the maiers on order right now (xmas presents to myself haha) and my frame is going in this weekend to have candy blue powder coating done

Welcome man, you can find anything about banshees on here and like keeks said... if you don't see it just ask everyone here is really great and willing to help. Good luck with your project!

Don't forget guys he has the 4mil stroker plus a hot rods crank and a 5mil trued and welded crank... 3 cranks in one motor holy shit its got to be fast. haha. And since when can your run wiseco pro-lites on a long rod 4mil. dont you have to run like wiseco 795's? You know the sad part about all of this is someone that doesnt know any better will probably buy it ride for a month get smoke by a bunch of people cuz he shoots his mouth off then after he blows the motor and take it apart realizes that most of that stuff wasnt acutally done to it

Dont forget those are the ones from the 95 SE's that had the ricket boosters in them lol

Well if the boots are fine then it might be the jets, it definantly sound like its running lean on one side, but those are only 2 out of a number of possibilities. Im sure some others will chime in with other things to check but those are the 2 main ones

I like what your doing man, let us know and posts some pics of the final product.

The +3's will have a little more stability, but there wont be much difference from the 2's. All the companies you listed are good though, just look around on ebay for a while and find a good deal

Your running lean on one side, check for any rips in the carb boots, if its not that then check your jets in your carbs make sure they're not clogged

I bought my 2000 for $500 becuase it didnt run, Just built a $2300 motor (in my sig.) and am working on the frame and suspension to get it the way I want it... They are money pits but what hobby isn't? I havn't regretted any of it, like you it's what I love

Yeah I'd say about 17-18cc domes. And dont go to a single carb set up for a top end bike, single carbs work better for low end trail or mx bikes. As far as the reeds, I'm running ported stock cages with boysen dual stage petals also and love 'em I havn't personally compared them on a shee, but know people who have and said go with the stock ported cages, they are cheaper and are just as good if not better, and I have compared them on a YZ125 and a blaster and on both I found the stock ported worked better