hercalmighty

Are you holding the throttle wide open as you kick? Are you using a long enough attachment to screw into the spark plug hole (the thread should be as long as your spark plug threads)? What kind of tester are you using? Also, just keep kicking until the needle stops moving.

That is one point guys are trying to make. The flexability the cool head offers is well worth the money. And let's be honest, banshees are a damn addiction. Once you start modding it usally doesn't stop. So the cool head option is great in that way because it can grow with you for a lot of builds.

Slo, ill ask again, why does it have to be a brand new head and domes? If your on a budget you could buy a used cool head and domes. It will save you a lot of money. I know I have gone through 3 domes so far since I bought my cool head. I'm not some big time racer or anything but when I do something I like to do it right. So in my case I would have gotten the heads rechambered. So that would have cost me on the low end 310. Since I went the cool head route it cost me 360, 160 for new head, 50 for new 20cc domes, 85 for new 20cc stroker domes and 65 for used 23cc stroker domes. I could have gotten everything a lot cheaper if I bought everything used but I didn't. Oh and I did sell my 20cc standard domes for 40 so I made some back. Look, I'm not saying the shaved head is a bad thing but to do it right it should be rechambered. Then when you compare that to the price of a used head its not that big of a difference. If you want to prove your point do some test. Test a stock motor with a stock head, a shaved head for race fuel, a cool head with equal size domes, the race fuel head with the bigger gasket, and a cool head with equal domes as the bigger gasket setup. Post HP, torque, and temps. Make it fair and unbiased. Then we can decide what's best. Oh add in a rechambered head also.

Why does it have to be a brand new cool head? If the guy is trying to build a budget bike he could buy used head and domes. To get the same benifits as domes provide the stock head should be rechambered. So using your stock head and getting it rechambered is going to cost about 80-100. Buying a used cool head and domes might cost about 120-150. Now, if you wanted two setups, one pump one race fuel, another set of domes will cost you maybe 40 used. Doing the stock head you really should have a second head cut. The head gasket thing will work to reduce your compression but your squish is going to be screwed up. So, to get a second head cut your talking 35 for a used head and another 80-100 for the rechamber. Guess what, your cost is about the same. Now if you want to talk about the head gasket thing it really doesn't work right. No matter what size dome you get the squish will stay about the same (as long as the dome wasn't cut wrong). Were using the cut head with different head gaskets will change your squish. You could just shave the head and call it good enough and yeah, if its just a piped bike it would make sense. But if your looking to port your bike you should have the head at least rechambered to get the most out of your bike. So, really going the budget route, a rechamber head 80-100, used cool head 150. Wanting to do two setups, two rechambered heads 195- 235, used head with two sets of domes 160-190. Pretty much a wash if you want to make sure your getting the most out of your bike. Even buying a new cool head with two new sets of domes would only run about 280-300. So really your only saving 65-85 bucks. Then if down the road you decide to do a different setup ie: big bore or 4mil, another set of domes 65-85, another stock head 115-135.

Did you unplug the tors box? Did you do a compression test? When you pull the plugs are they sparking and are they wet with fuel?

Yeah. Just use a business card. I think its .018 for the gap but I might be wrong. Its been awhile since I did mine.

Did you check your pickup gap?

Good thought matt

Did you make sure you put the coolant plugs into the bottom of your cylinders? There shouldn't be any coolant going through your cases. It might be a good idea to put your motor together and do a leak down test.

Yeah, with the mix you should be good at lower elevation. What size domes do you have now? And what's your cranking compression?

Tony, your bike runs freaking great man so whatever your doing keep to it. Im actually running +6 timing on my 4mil HJR dune port. I think mine runs pretty good for a stock cylinder bike. I haven't had any issues with my setup and have been riding it for well over a year now. But like Tony said, play it safe and stick to +4 until you can really test it out. If I was building a bike for someone else I would stay to the safe side, but my own bike I'll go a little more.

I'm running a set of 23cc domes Kevin sent me. I'm about sea level and have 160psi with a HJR dune port. I'm running 93 octane and have no problems at all. To be honest, I actually like the 23cc domes on 93 better then the 21cc domes on 110.

Mains are way too big. Should be closer to 160-165 mains.

I have to disagree with you guys saying the 80w is causing his problems. I have been using Golden Spectro 80w gear oil in all my 2strokes for 19 years. Have never had any clutch issues. After racing MX and harescrambles every weekend for 3 years my clutch was still in factory specs. There is something wrong some where in the assemblely. When you pull in the clutch lever is the pressure plate moving? If the whole basket is moving instead of just the pressure plate then there is something wrong there.

Agree with the pipes. Also, are you sure the PVs are opening?

I can't believe you still have these. I will vouche for Tony. He is a stand up guy. He would clean these carbs after every other ride. I'm sure they are probably cleaner then when he bought them new.

It has nothing to do with defending the builders. Like I said earlier, I have been doing some research on porting so I can do it myself. When I had my porting done I wasn't as familiar with all the durations nor the tools to do the best job I could. So at the time it was better to send my topend off to get it ported. I'm going to tackle my 125 cylinder myself and see what I get.

Slo. If your doing a long rod 4mil you need new pistons. You can't use the stockers. No, I don't think you need a whole new topend every time you pull the topend. But usally if I'm pulling the cylinders I'm doing the topend. As far as the math, have you read any porting books? Once again its not just lowering or raising a port a little. To get the most out a motor you do need to find the optimum port timing and angles. You keep talking about the port roof angles but that's only a fraction of making a motor run good. You have to angle the ports back to the correct dimensions to make sure the mixture isn't going right out your exhaust. As far as the money goes I saying for a guy sending out just the cylinders to get ported and doing all the disassemble and assemble yourself. So that cuts out a lot of money. My 4mil dune port cost me 700 from HJR with a new topend and bore.

Slo. Believe me, I want to know as much as I can about porting and if guys would post up some numbers it would be great. My point with all this is that it takes a lot more then a little window cutting to get 70hp. As far as price, 450 for new crank, 300 for bore and topend, then for another 400-500 you can get someone who really knows what they are doing to get the motor just the way you want. It takes a lot of math to really get the ports to match your pipe and what kind of power you want. Its not just the roof angles, its getting the correct angles to blow back into the bore, porting your transfer tunnels, and matching everything to the pipe and what kind of power you want. How bout this Slo, get a stock motor and put the pipe and carbs of your choice on it and dyno it. Then build the 4mil like you want with just lowering the port floors and widing the exhaust like you outlined, and go back to the dyno and post the results.

I really wouldn't do the spacer bolts. If anything just flip your tires. Its a shame you can't get some +2+1 arms and some shocks. It makes a huge difference. The arms, shocks and axle were probably the best money I spent on my banshee. After that it would have to be my 4mil setup.

I had 28 pwks on mine. I loved them. Much better throttle response and more top end.

Holeshots just don't hook well on banshees. Razr2s are kind of heavy in my opinion but they do hook well and last awhile. My GNCCs hook great and are light but they wear fast

What kind of tires you looking to get? I'm running the GNCCs from ITP. They hook pretty good. Most guys are going to say I'm screwy for saying this, but, I actually like running 15/41 gearing on my banshee. I ride a lot of tight woods and mx.

Do a cool head with some 20 or 21cc domes, and a timing plate set at +4. Now, you say that you can take them once your in third gear. Is it because your spinning a lot or your just going through the gears really fast

Can you post what numbers you feed into the calculator for each one of those?