deckheight

Probably good to go. Inspect the mains, clean all the melted aluminum as best you can, duche the whole thing out and maybe check the phase. So what do you figure caused the "lean condition", exactly?

Sorry for getting off topic... Can't help you on the pingel test. I can tell you that the petcock mod you just did looks good and will flow way more fuel then you will need for the mods listed in your sig though.

I'm thinking the same thing. Burning a hole in the top of a piston is not what I would consider a major catastrophy. Did you chunk up a ring? What do the wrist pin bearing surfaces look like? Where exactly is "the top of the rod scored"? How do the mainbearings feel and sound? What do the mains look like under magnification? Seen some pretty bad seizures where the crank was A-OK. Also had a few where a main bearing got nicked by a peice of ring and everything seemed fine, but the bearing slowly came apart. Also had a few where the rod twisted or bent, but thats pretty rare as the piston boss usually lets go before that happens. Still needs to be checked out though. Just from what I read in this post and past experience I would say you have about a 1 in 6 or 1 in 8 chance of even having a problem. Really hard to narrow down the odds via the internet... You feel lucky today? on edit: I have seen brand new cranks come right out of the box w/heat discoloration. for what it's worth...

Yeah buddy, BATTLE! I can tell by the sweat on your keyboard your all screwed up about it :ermm: Might have to use the old secret weapon for this one... LOL!

Well lets see some numbers off that stroker of yours when you get em. Wondering how bad I'm gonna have to whup ya with my stocker next time you head down to Hooterville :biggrin: :biggrin:

Need straight set of jarms with good ball joints and a +3 or +4 swing arm for a stock carrier. Also need brake line for swinger etc. Let me know how much$$$ Have a couple Time-Sert installation kits for Banshee head and cylinder stud repair and a new set K&N RU-0620 pods for 30-35mm carbs for trade. Or any engine machine work for a Banshee or PWC you could possibly think of for trade if interested. Let me know, Thanks

LOL! Do they have a policy with zero deductable and a death benefit???

I have only seen two total, both being re-cut 4mm strokers. I attributed both to operator error (not running the proper fuel). One detonation seized hard on the exhaust side, caught a ring and chewed up the dome. Not much guess work there... The other was sustained mild to moderate detonation, finally water seized. Had a radial crack toward the top on the exhaust side. So far, I have not seen any problems with unmolested parts. No pics, both domes are long gone...

You have had some pretty good advise so far. The reason I said try domes first is that your already set-up w/a head shell and it will give you a pretty decent H/P increase... After which, you will probably be wondering how you can better transfer the added H/P to the ground. Once you figure that out, the porting will add about what the compression did as far as performance. And then you will probably be looking at carbs... On and on it goes... :biggrin:

Get a set of 19cc domes and run 100 octane fuel and see how you like that. 100 octane top ends are a nice "recreation" compression and are relatively easy on the crank, etc. Plus you get a really decent performance increase. :biggrin: Then if you need more check into the porting... :biggrin: :biggrin:

Wise choice, not something to screw around with... Harbor Freight has their "El Cheapo digital calipers on sale for $17 or something. Decent calipers for the $$$ if you take the time to search thru them for a good one. Might have to "test drive" 5 or 6 before you find a good one LOL!

Bore size, trapped volume and exhaust opening ATDC would be perfect. Sounds like it may be time to invest in a buret? :biggrin: Shoot me a private for contact info. Sure save a lot of time typing... :biggrin:

Personally I wouldn't replace rings based solely on a compression gauge reading. If it runs good and both cylinders are within 10psi of each other I would seriously consider calling it good. If you want to run pump gas and decide to have an OEM head cut...Spend the x-tra $30.00 to rechambered it as well, you will be much happier with it. If you want to run 100 octane and up get an aftermarket head.

Since OEM heads vary in volume from the factory... The only accurate way would be to face it, then rechamber it with a .035"-.040" undercut and check it for volume with a buret. I would not remove more than about .060" on the facing operation as the aluminum becomes thin in a couple areas. The equivalent volume of a cut OEM head to a 20cc O-ring head would be 19.16cc due to a head gasket volume of .84cc.

Posting the location where you will need the work done would help. Someone here knows of someone reputable in your area probably, assuming you don't want to do it yourself?

Anywhere close to 64.5mm would be .5mm over. It's hard to see some times with all the carbon and junk, but there should have a 5 somewhere near the center.

I punched your numbers into TSR... With a 4 mil crank at 8.5:1 corrected compression ratio and a 187* duration it is outputting 110 octane. At 9.6:1 it is over 120 octane (TSR will not output that high). Also, at 187* duration it is saying your exhaust opens at 86.57* or 31mm ATDC. If the opening timing is not correct, octane estimates will change obviously. At any rate, something is not computing... I suspect either the exhaust opening is wrong or the CC/R is. Or both maybe? If you truly are setup for 110, there is no way you would have survived a high rpm run on 100??? If your exhaust timing is something other than above let me know and I'll run it again. Like they say with TSR and the rest of the programs... Garbage in = Garbage out

Personally I would not assemble that motor on what you just said. Some of it doesn't sound right, especially that last statement... Which is 100% incorrect BTW. Anyway, just not enough info there! One mans "perfect" is another mans "POS"! Go down to Harbor Freight or something and buy a cheapo digital caliper and check them. Or take the cylinders and pistons to a machine shop and have them checked.

Timesert for head studs. Go with the stainless in that application if at all possible. Might even be stronger than original.

There's a reason it's just the right tube, maybe multiple reasons??? I'm guessing between windowing the pistons and something else??? Good pics of both pistons (good one and bad one) would help. Top and bottom of piston crown, wrist pin removed. I also agree w/everyone else... I do not believe increasing piston window time area is doing much for you performance wise. on edit: Wouldn't think rpm is it. What ignition you using?

Let us know what happens? I built a decent 110 motor for a guy who also had a stocker for his kid. Anyway, he comes back with the stocker running like crap. Acts like it's sucking trans fluid or the CDI is stuck on full retard or something??? tried everything and just could not figure the thing out... The guy finally tells me he ran out of 91 last time out and filled it with 110, figured it would run better... You won't see anything this dramatic because of your 19cc domes, pretty sure it will be noticable though. Make sure you are accurate when blending fuel. If in dought put an x-tra splash of 110 in there!

There is not a hell of a lot of material left there! Besides whats already been mentioned, if you have any type of detonation going on in that particular cylinder (even just a little) it's going to push the piston around pretty good and the vibrations from the deto itself and the piston banging around are not going to help your cause. You notice anything that might lead you to believe that the problem pistons combustion chamber is running hotter than the other slug? Piston wash, carbon color, texture, etc. Short of that, stop massaging the windows, make sure your ports are well chamfered and maybe try rounding off any sharp edges on the window itself to help relieve any metal stress??? Gotta be a reason just the one side is doing it... Maybe???

No problem. It's kind of nice having someone actually respond to my posts... I feel like a Leper around here sometimes... LOL!

One piece gaskets are good, especially after the cases have been ported, prt matched, blended, whatever... The metal core gaskets w/a kind of rubberized coating are the ones I've been using... No complaints!

Uuhhh, I didn't get that. Could you say it again please? :biggrin: