deckheight

Dave, I have a few recent pics of a Banshee motor I could show you if I could figure out how to get em on here??? Would someone be kind enough to walk me through it. I am looking at them on a cd, just can't figure out how to get them from the cd to here??? DUH!

No guys, that's not it at all... I am pretty new here... Most of my work is with the motor on a bench. Plus I kind of misunderstood the original intent anyway . I'm good, hope everyone else is as well :biggrin: .

I was sort of... I think... Anyway, no problem, since the question was asked... just putting it out there... Thanks for letting me know and being respectfull about it. Good luck with everything.

Whatever... I think I was pretty clear as to what it is exactly that I am using. If someone wants to pressure test with reeds and intake intact what I currently use wont work. If you want to know if the cases and top end assembly are leaking, where and exactly how much... It will work. Several different ways to find an intake manifold leak without pressurizing the cases... If that's all that's needed why even bother pressurizing the cases at all. I'll put you down as a no??? :biggrin:

I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down. If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship.

With stock head and compression... 4 or 5 deg. ignition advance in an of itself will not cause deto., especially with 91+octane fuel. Hard starting without primeing the carbs would probably indicate a carb problem. Low speed adjustment, float level, etc. or an air leak. The "pinging" your hearing could just be the exhaust resonating in the pipes??? Or not, who knows... The piston wash pics in the link from earlier in the thread are basically correct. To expand on good, solid info... The color and density of the carbon build-up on top of the piston are also an indicator of fuel/air ratios and combustion chamber temps. Black, dense, burnt on carbon = Bad. Tan to chocolate brown, soft (scrape it with fingernail) type carbon = Good. Also, build-up on the underside, center of the piston, directly beneath the piston crown is a very good indicator of combustion chamber temps. Hard, black cooked on oil and fuel residue indicates excessively high combustion chamber temps. No build-up or only light brownish build-up would indicate a good running recreation type engine that is off the "edge", combustion chamber temperature wise anyway. Unfortunately, the cylinders have to come off the to get a look at the underside of the piston...

Ooops! Sorry for dragging that old thing back to life... Couldn't help it LOL! I Obvously didn't look at the date! Actually, the equation as defined (Displacement of a round cylinder) is correct. Whereas, your equation is also correct as defined (for a banshee). In fact I will probably start using yours (.0007854)... Saves a few key strokes! Have to disagree on the end result though... 2mm+/- over bore and 54mm stroke??? Maybe I missed something there too. Wouldn't be the first time...

Huge difference between a "controlled detonation" in a typical diesel engine designed for it and an "uncontrolled detonation" in a typical spark ignited engine that is not. Likewise, huge difference in uncontrolled detonation in a four stroke with the added stroke to cool the combustion chamber and a two stroke without it. Anything but extremely minor detonation in a two stroke is a very bad thing! IMHO anyway... Displacement of a round cylinder = (Bore X Bore) X 3.1416 X Stroke / 4000

Good parts from a good seller... :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

Sounds good. They look decent in the pics, just need to see whats under the covers... Sorry for the hassle.

I probably screwed something up w/the PM... Kinda new here bla, bla ,bla... Sorry. Anyway, I am interested in the shocks, just a little concerned about the rock damage. Any chance of pics without the diapers? Just want to see how bad they are. Please PM me for my e-mail.

Thanks man. PM sent.

What color are the coil springs??? Thanks, Chris

I'll take that radiator plastic/grill... Pm me. Thanks, Chris

I have the shiney Jet Hot coating on some T-5's. So far so good, no discoloration and fairly durable. Have not noticed any difference as far as horsepower. If there is any difference my "Butt-O-Meter is not detecting it... In fact. I get a more noticable performance increase from a bean and cheese burrito in the morning

Yup got the PM. I will give tou a call. Thanks

I need a set of 33mm PWK's. I see the 38's on your site, but not the 33's. Can you get them? I need the whole enchilada... Carbs, filters, intake, cable. Thanks

Pretty much anywhere that sells auto parts. Prices range anywhere from something like $30 up to $200+ for non calibrated gauges. Try to find one w/an assortment of spark plug adapter's, specifically an adapter that matches the length of a Banshee spark plug and has a schraeder valve on the adapter, not up top near the gauger. BTW, non-calibrated compression gauges are inherently inaccurate. Calibrated gauges are not much better for the intended purpose either. A compression gauge is not generally a recommended way to establish fuel octane requirements... However, a lot of people use the method and get away with it at least temporarily. Some don't. It is a much better indicator than nothing however, at least it is something... Good luck.

Ignition timing is usually advanced in order to acheive maximum combustion chamber pressures at a specific degree of crank shaft rotation, usually at or very near piston top dead center. Higher octane fuels require ignition timing advances due to their slower rate of burn, thus the burn is started sooner for the reason stated above. Higher octane fuels require more advance, whereas lower octane fuels require less... High octane fuel or "race fuel" yeilds no more hosepower than a fuel with a lower octane rating. In fact too high an octane fuel for a specific conpression ratio will yeild less horsepower due to maximum combustion chamber pressures occuring too late and vise-versa. What higher octane fuels do allow are more efficient, higher combustion chamber compression ratios which are what is actually making horsepower. Where most engines/tuners get in trouble is from too low octane fuel for a specific compression ratio. Combustion chamber heat and pressure from too high a compression ratio causes lower octane fuel to self ignite before the spark plug initiates the burn... VERY BAD NEWS! An easy and reliable indicator of correct ignition timing is how high up the spark plug center electrode soot has climbed. Viewed under magnification, soot should typically be within a few thousands of an inch below the top of the electrode. Higher than a couple thousands indicates ignition timing is retarded, too low indicates to much ignition advance. A better, more reliable, not so easy indicator is inspecting, under magnification, the exhaust side of the piston crown and corresponding head squish band area for pitting. Typically, ignition timing is advanced until pitting (detonation) is indicated then retarded one or more degrees depending on the tuners comfort level. There are other methods like detonation sensors, tachometers, etc. However, for 2-stroke engines... Marginal at best.

You still got those carbs?