deckheight

OK, I'll put it out there and see what come up. Short of that just send me the template mapping data. Lets see what you got???

Sounds like were both on the same page :biggrin: :biggrin: Wether it is the "long way" or not might depend on an individuals ability to pay for parts and labor. LOL! I understand your point as far as static compression readings being understandable however. With "Accurate" being a somewhat relative term anyway... :ermm:

Sorry to hear that arrangement fell through. Just from viewing your pics and reading your posts in this thread as well as others... I personally wouldn't have any problem sending you my stock cylinders. Looks to me like you do acceptable work for what it is and as near as I can tell you have been totally up front about what that work is. Again, hope it works out for you.

Sound advise there folks! There is no professional motorsport in the world that uses a compression gauge to establish fuel octane requirements, that I am aware of anyway.

Man you guys are lucky! I twisted another one off a couple weeks ago... SNAP! DAMN IT!

Mopar, I just read through most of this thread... Some excellent input from people who obviously have more experience porting 2-stroke cylinders than you. At the same time, I think that you have been pretty up front about what services you are offering and your capabilities. Since you apparently have an arrangement with someone on here... I say go for it. I am not familiar with "Race Logic" templates... However, from your description the port mapping is not overly aggresive (quite the opposite actually) and it sounds like a defenite improvement over OEM. All I might add: Don't experiment on other peoples stuff unless everybody involved is in agreement. At any rate, hope it works out for you.

Some of them can be a real pita! Hopefully you won't have to deal with that though. Penetrating oil, a stud socket and repeated heat/cool cycles usually get the stubborn ones...

4.900" finish O.D. on each side of the trigger. Another .040" can be faced off the front also. I have not seen or heard of any problems with this and it loses apx. 9 ounces right off the end of the crank. :biggrin: :biggrin: Slight but very noticable difference. See if they will balance it also... I hate to keep harping on the balancing thing... But it really should at least be checked.

We consistently run 20cc domes, T-5's and +2 timing at sea level all day long on fresh 92 octane fuel. The motors I have disassembled showed no signs of excessive combustion chamber temps or detonation. Go figure! Obviously, certain things have an effect... things like high gearing or other constant heavy loads, bizzaro ignition curves, really efficient pipes, etc. could very well be problems. Don't know... Nothing wrong with using a little caution however... Especially if a person cannot seem to keep fresh, good quality fuel in the tank! BTW, when you guys talk elevation above sea level... I assume your referring to relative air density. Where I ride the best air quality I probably ever see is at sea level, 65 deg ambient air temp, 60% relative humidity.

If the head that 87 came with is still on it... Your not even close to having a problem w/+4 ignition advance even with .015 faced off it. See if the head casting says 2GUY-1??? If it does, get a get a newer model 2GUY-2 casting. Just that swap alone will give you a slight power increase. Then if you want more power send the new head to someone competent and have it cut for whatever octane fuel you want. Then you can start thinking about detonating... Or just avoid all the drama, get an aftermarket head shell w/20cc domes, advance the ignition a couple deg. and be done with it...

Could go a little smaller, but things tend to get a little sticky if you know what I mean.

Don't get much cheaper than that. Looks like we have a winner...

Anybody who takes the time to balance them before they send em back would be my first choice... Probably...

General consensus for O-ring domes is 20cc on fresh 92+ octane fuel.

Since OEM head squish bands are a cast surface and not machined they are all over the blace as far as undercut to start with. If an OEM head is just faced and no squish cut is made this is what you get... I have also seen heads cut on a lathe using a spark plug fixture that turned out this way even with a squish cut. Really doesn't matter when everything is stock since squish clearances are huge to start with, gets a little more critical as clearances tighten up. Depends on what the finish undercut, or "lip" as you call it, actually is as to what your installed clearances will be. They are going to vary obviousy. To answer your question... Yes and no! Depends on who is operating the machinery and/or wether or not they are in a hurry or having a bad hair day or something... Only take a few more minutes to do it right though.

There are a lot of competent 2-stroke tuners out there that nobody on this site has ever heard of. And a lot more hacks as well! The big names on this site have earned good reputations, rightfully so, with something that has repeatedly been proven to work. Exhaust and transfer ports can be made to function efficiently at whatever rpm needed or requested by the customer (within reason of course)... In other words, rather than piping to the port... Port to the pipe... Or port to whatever is required to make peak horsepower at a specific RPM.

All Wiseco markets in banshee land are high performance parts... Like dajogejr said, I have never had a wrist pin bearing (caged or otherwise) grenade either. Possibley just a bad one??? Or a bad batch??? In my personal opinion, chances are way less than average that anyone will ever get a straight answer from the powers that be at Wiseco. At any rate, I am going OEM until the dust settles...

With the usual bolt on stuff and cylinder porting...+4 here too.

LOL! Good luck with that! If there even is a problem... Wiseco policy used to be and as far as I know still is: "high performance part" no warranty. Again, if in fact Wiseco even is having "issues", it wouldn't be the first time. Based upon past experience with Wiseco and what I have just read in this thread... I would seriously consider using OEM bearings for a while just in case. I know I am personally going to! The above is just my "personal opinion". I have no first hand knowledge of, or am I aware of any current reliability issues with Wiseco products as fact. Sorry to hear about all the motor carnage... Jeeez

As far as splitting the cases... Pretty much everything comes off! It would take a book to explain the procedure...LOL! If your rings are still intact I would seriously consider going to plan "B" and not splitting them. IMHO anyway.

Wiseco calls for a finish bore diameter of 2.598" with their 66mm Banshee pistons. Your a couple thousands shy on the smaller bore and about perfect on the bigger one. You are going about it backwards BTW. You should be fitting the bore to the pistons and not the other way around. Rule of thumb for ring end gap is .005" for every 1" of bore diameter. In your case, ringend gap would be .013".

Dude, I am guessing you have an intake tract air leak on the right tube. Looks like a classic pre-ignition melt down to me... I am also guessing the cylinder is scored pretty much all the way around and not just in a couple spots like would be evident with a detonation or partial head gasket/coolant wash seizure. Just the fact there is a hole melted in the piston tells me it isn't a coolant problem. Anyway, assuming a that a piece of ring has not broken off... In all probability, all you really need to do is rinse out the lower end like your buddy said and find the air leak. It's not the soft aluminum that's going to chew up main and rod bearings, it's the hard chunks like peices of rings or bearing seperators that's going to do it. But, if you want to be totally safe... BTW, the left slug carbon build-up looks a little lean on the main jet, but that could be from the 87 octane fuel and/or the left cylinder compensating for the right slug just before it vented??? What your looking for is a nice medium to dark brown carbon build up that is somewhat soft and can be scratched with your fingernail. What you don't want is hard black baked on carbon. And look at the under side of the left piston too... If it has a black spot from cooked on oil right in the center, your combustion chamber temps are too high. Might want to consider jetting up a little or backing off the ignition advance or running higher octane fuel or something maybe???

Single edge razor blade and lacquer thinner.

Hmmm, I don't recall seeing one that wasn't balanced at the factory. Not that I have been paying all that much attention to it though. I do remember having to move an indicator more than once so it wasn't dropping into one of the OEM balance marks and a few interupted cuts on the lathe too. Hmmm again??? At any rate, it's standard procedure around here to statically balance/re-balance any flywheel after lightening or any time a flywheel problem is suspected. Just common sense for something spinning 8000 + rpm. Stator side main bearings seem to really appreciate it too... With the minimal amount of material that can be safely taken off a Banshee flywheel, it makes just a very small difference one way or the other performance wise, IMHO anyway. However, a little here a little there...

Yeah, not sh*t... LOL! On edit: Sorry, had to laugh about that one... Cut 1/4" off the plug wires and put the caps back on. See if that helps.