2001Stroker

This dude was on here today. I was wanting to get his CPI's. Oh well, he dick'd around and I bought some off someone over on ATVDragracers.

Top right corner of every page. Click on "Search", and type brand oil, and then hit enter. Not trying to be a dick, but it's been covered hundreds of times.

Boss racing intake solves that problem. It moves the left carb up and back a little. I have one, and have plenty of room between the carb and clutch.

I like that. I probably wouldn't have a piece missing out of my top case, if I had that.

I was thinking the same thing.

Your best bet for horsepower gains, is to stroke it. But if you want to just go bigger bore, I have a set of 66mm jugs and pistons, mild port, that are getting ready to go up for sale soon. Only have about 20 hours on them, if that. I'm getting a 68mm cub. I am also debating on getting rid of my 4mm longrod crank, and going with a 10mm crank. Money is what's holding me back there.

Negative. 4mil cylinders need 4mm stroker cranks. The ports won't be lined up correctly. And stock carbs on a t-rex or cub? I don't think so. You're gonna need AT LEAST 33's, to make that thing not starve. I have a set of stock cylinders, and a 4mil with 35mm carbs. Don't use those stock 26mm carbs. Unless you get some serious machine work done to them.

I was reading on another forum, that it's not worth the money for the small amount of gain. Not even worth it from cub to DM. Best to stick with a cub. If you wanna get the big numbers, go with a twister.

The stem is easy to get out. Especially since you have the bike torn down. Take the tie rods off of it, then the castle nut on the very bottom, and then the 2 bolts at the top. Comes right out. If your bike is back together, take the radiator cover and tank cover off first. If you're scard of screwing up the radiator, take it out first.

If you're set on doing that, someone a while back said that Ford Ranger (I think) balljoints are the same size. You might be able to dig something up on that by using the search. But on the flip side, I agree with loco. Just buy some aftermarket arms.

Right here bro. I've been looking for someone on here that lives around me. Where you at?

To each his own. I like my silver plastics. Frame was deep purple with fine metal flakes. Now it's going to translucent blue. Keepin the silver plastic though.

I love my iRazr's. They're 6-ply, so they'll hold up on those sharp rocks. I've heard people complain about them not lasting long. I beg to differ. Mine have about 9 months on them, of aggressive trail riding. I say they're at about 85% tread. Not too bad, in my book. And they ride comfortable at 4psi. Oh, and man do they hook! Best traction that I've had so far. Still spins, but what do you expect, it's a banshee.

that's b/s. i know i got sarah palin.

4mm is a great setup. Nothing unreliable about it. Just remember that when you get one, you have to get the ports matched, and either a spacer plate under the jugs or machined domes. Also a good idea to get it welded.

Don't quote me on this. But I think when you remove the TORS, you don't have to drill and tap the tops. From what I understand, not drilling and tapping will just cause it to have a little bit of a high idle.

No, he was just saying to get rid of the TORS. That should free up a little bit of pressure. With bigger carbs, you can trim the spring. He doesn't know if you can do the same to stock carbs. And, neither do I. I have a Moose thumb throttle, and like it. Helped take some of the tension off. The Chariot Performance thumb throttle is also a nice peice. Should help too.

That is correct. br7 would be hotter. But, I'm jumpin on the parking brake bandwagon.

:thumbsup: That's what I do.

I'm with RIPPEN, get one of those plastic ones. They flex more than the billet ones. They're easier to break, but I'd rather break a $30 piece of plastic than my cases. Those billet ones are less likely to break or flex, and might actually cause more damage than not having one.

Still got the CPI's? Closer pics? Shipping to 23322?

Yea, you don't have to worry about it. My fenders didn't do anything anyways. Only get a little dirty in muddy areas. If you drive fast enough, you don't even get muddy. :biggrin:

Pretty much any online decal shop sells the carbon fiber look decals. Maier now sells carbon fiber look plastics. You can get all of the plastics for your bike in that color. If I ain't mistaken, someone on her has plans to get them.

I have no bumper on mine. Personally, I think the stock bumper looks the best. Banshee's have a squared off body. I just don't think the modern bumpers look right on them. I was bankin on getting one from someone on here that looks just like the stock one, but made out of billet aluminum. Hopefully he's still tryin to do the deal. Definitely be bummed out if he didn't.

I read on here a couple weeks ago, that there are two different size Slingshots for Banshee's. Whoever it was, said that one needs machining, and the other doesn't. I don't know personally, but I did read that on here. And yes, it was from someone reputable. I think it was Kawiking or dajogejr that said that. Could be wrong though.