2001Stroker

I'm gonna guess that you don't have an e-brake. I would say caliper piston froze, or the pins seized. You said you got the brakes off? Try to push the piston back in. It should go in fairly easy with a c-clamp or a caliper tool. If you can't do it, take the line off at the caliper and try again. That way you can eliminate the rest of the system.

Yea, didn't he pay like $250 shipped for some Shearers. Just missing a little chrome on one pipe.

Y'all are funny. I should be in bed right now, but I can't wait to see what comes next. I knew this dude was gonna get cracked on, but I never thought it would turn out to be an e-fight. Badapwned, quit being so hot-headed man. If you can't take a joke or two, then don't post dumb shit. Now go drink a frosty one, and calm down. :beer:

Not around here. I paid $3500 for mine back in February, and all that was done to it was the engine. Yea, it has all the goodies, including a 4mil. I did everything else that's done to it. And now, I'm going back into it even deeper. A good STOCK 00-01 Banshee around here will run you about $2800-3200. Something like what I have would be in the range of $3500-3800. IMO, your boy got a good deal on the 98. And yea, it's time to learn to do things yourself, instead of shops doing it. Save that money for mods. Not saying the bike he bought is going to break down. What I'm saying is, he's going to get the fever real soon.

Take the overflow bottle out, and just run the hose down by the a-arms. You don't need it. If you have a good 16psi radiator cap, you don't need that thing.

This is what I offered Mopar1. Seem fair to you guys? I have a set of stock jugs bored .080. I plan on selling them in the near future. They have a mild port, that actually could have been done a little better. I sent pics of it to Jeff at FAST, and he said there's plenty left to do something with them. How about I ship them to you, and you port them with your template. I'll pay for the stones, and shipping back. Then I'll sell them to someone(preferably someone on this site), and get feedback. Then, I'll give you 25% of the sale if they're what you say they are. Sound fair? It'll get your name out there, which ever way it goes.

The only thing that it's missing, is the headlight plugs. The wires are there, but I straight wired the headlights, so I chopped the factory plugs off.

Agreed. Mopar1, I have a set of stock jugs bored .080. I plan on selling them in the near future. They have a mild port, that actually could have been done a little better. I sent pics of it to Jeff at FAST, and he said there's plenty left to do something with them. How about I ship them to you, and you port them with your template. I'll pay for the stones, and shipping back. Then I'll sell them to someone(preferably someone on this site), and get feedback. Then, I'll give you 25% of the sale if they're what you say they are. Sound fair? It'll get your name out there, which ever way it goes.

sounds like it's time to tear down the motor and reseal the cases. and while you're in there....................hmmmm

I have a 2001. I'm in the middle of a teardown, and I'm leaning towards making my own harness. How soon do you need one? If I decide to make my own, you can have this one real cheap. Still has the original plugs for the TORS too. And, I even took the initiative to mark every plug with masking tape and a permanent marker. I haven't made a 100% decision yet, but like I said, I am leaning towards doing it. If you need it right now, I can't do that. I have to trace down where everything goes before I let the harness go. But if you can wait, I'll almost give it away.

Damn. Thanks anyways.

I forgot y'all duners just get going in the winter.

I think you quoted the 4th pair down, in the pic. I'm looking at those directionals.

Does it still have TORS? Parking brake switch will cause it to not rev.

I know I'm a little off topic, but you gotta check this out. I found some translucent colors, that look badass. I'm using blue though. You have to totally polish, or chrome the frame before you powder coat it. Since the powder is translucent, chroming it makes it look like anodized aluminum. Eastwood Company sells the powder. Click here for a link to their translucent colors. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...amp;iSubCat=848

Here you go. This douche bag finally responded to my email. What a dick. Dude thinks I don't know shit about these things. You gotta read from the bottm up. Actually, I did read your description. And I am very familiar with a Banshee's engine. As a matter a fact, I'm in the process of building a 10mil stroker cub motor for mine. Pictures of the bike from a distance shows absolutely nothing. 3 years ago, no manufacturer that I know of made a +6 stroker crank. I wanted pictures of the welds on the crank. If you know so much about Banshee's you would know what welds I'm talking about, since it's the question right after the one about the crank. I'm not a rookie with the interchangeable domes. When I asked for compression, I wanted the PSI of the cylinders, how the bike is sitting right now. Yamalube? Give me a break. Why would you put that junk oil in your "Fully Custom Yamaha Banshee"? Oh, and I wanted some proof that your bike is making the power that you are advertising. That's why I wanted to see some slips and dyno sheets. If you can't provide those few things that I asked for, then stick that bike up your rear end. It would take me a day to drive down there to look at your bike. That's why I want proof. That thing ain't making the power that you're advertising, and you know it. That's why I'm not going to waste my time dealing with you anymore. I can't believe that you copped an attitude with someone who is a potential buyer of the bike that you have for sale for $5200. That's because someone called you out on your false advertising. You'll never see that kind of money for that bike. It might be worth $4000. And who cares about your blown small blocks? Banshee's are nowhere near the same engine as a small block. Since you can't answer my questions, you can keep your overpriced "Fully Custom Yamaha Banshee". ----- Original Message ----- From: Chad Johnson To: Chris Smith Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 2:13 PM Subject: Re: Fully Custum Yamaha Banshee - $5200 (North Port) Evidently you havn't read the whole discription I already have in place. Or you or your friend know nothing about a Banshee or it's engine. If you or your friend knew anything about them then just by looking at the pics and dicription I've already provided most of your questions would already be answerd. As for the ones that cant. The crank is 3 years old. It has a half of a season on the top end so 6hrs or so. Pictures of what welds? No on the chain wack. Jugs, Head, timing plate and Intake ar all Paul Turner "Duncan Racing". All porting and machining was done by them as well. As for the compression and timing, it all depends on what CC domes you want to run. When I drag race it I use the 17cc domes and advance the timing around 7 degrees, but have to run race fuel (110 octane). When I want to trail ride I can pop in 22cc domes and only advance the timing around 2-3 degrees and run pump gas (93 not 87). Yamalube 2-R oil mixed 40:1. And as for a dyno sheet and track slips, give me a break. I've been building Banshee engines for years along with other blown small blocks, and if you know what your doing and know what engine combonation makes what then you shouldn't have to ask for either of those. --- On Fri, 11/21/08, Chris Smith wrote: From: Chris Smith Subject: Fully Custum Yamaha Banshee - $5200 (North Port) To: [email protected] Date: Friday, November 21, 2008, 10:45 PM ** CRAIGSLIST ADVISORY --- AVOID SCAMS BY DEALING LOCALLY ** Avoid: wiring money, cross-border deals, work-at-home ** Beware: cashier checks, money orders, escrow, shipping ** More Info: http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams.html I'm curious about a few thing regarding your Banshee. I have a friend that may be interested. Sorry for all the questions, but I live in Virginia. How many hours are on the new top end? How old is the crank? Do you have pictures of the welds? Are the cases trenched? Has the case ever been chain whacked? What jugs are you using, and what bore are they? Is it ported? By who? And what port? What brands are the head, intake, and timing plate? What is the timing set at? What ignition are you using? What clutch are you using, and does it have a lockout? What is the compression? What shocks and a-arms does it have? Is the swingarm a stock style? What air filter setup is on it? What oil and ratio are you mixing? What brand are the in-frame drag pipes? TORS removed, or still on it? Any cracks or broken welds on frame? Do you have track slips to show the times? Do you have a dyno sheet to prove the power it's making? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this message was remailed to you via: [email protected] --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a Thor Quadrant. Very comfy, light, and takes a beating through the woods. No marks from branches yet. I do like that murdered out Thor though.

Alot of people like either Works or Elka. I'm thinking about trying out the iShocks. I think it's MarineNYC that has some. He said he loves them, and I'm going to save up for some.

What bore are they? 68?

It's not going to hurt anything to advance it. I'm just trying to make sure that you don't advance it too far. Set it at +2, and see how you like it. You ain't gonna hurt anything set that low.

Emergency brake still hooked up? Anything else to do with the TORS still hooked up?

Make sure that's what it is. About 2 weeks ago, I thought my bottom chain slider was making noise too. Turned out it was the axle bearings. Might want to check those too.

Where did jbones go? This IS his thread, right?

Well whatever you decide, hope you still have plans on hanging out on the HQ.