someone82

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Toomey T-5 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&n pod 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all D) no airbox 4) What is your elevation? sealevel to 3500ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 42, air screw 2 turns out 6) What size main jets are you using? 190 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 75ish 8) Do you have a port job? MX port 9) What kind of carbs? Keihin 10) What size carbs? Single Pwk 35 Air striker on a Graydon intake 11) Needle? DGN 2nd clip down from top 12) Timing? +4 degress

Here is what i did to make my throttle a little more liveable: I removed the spring inside the the throttle housing (the pwk carb spring is more then enough{With both my orginal dual setup and my current single}) and bent the thumb pad to a better suited position. Been riding with it like that for two years now with no problems.

It's going to be different for everybody, from riding style, conditions, weight, overall suspension setup, etc...

Did you try a stud extractor, they work like a charm. Soak it over night with some good penatrating lube. Seeing you bent the stud you got it too hot.

Did one or both of the bearings fail on you? Could have been a plugged jet.

Got a set coming... :cool:

I'm looking for a set of 20x6-10mx tires with at least 75% life left in them, anybody got a set? I just need them for a race coming up soon. As long as they hold air I'm happy.

no your right they are Douglas, don't know why I was thinking ITP's oh well, thanks tho :beer: How much they charge, I have no idea, but I could probably look into it, from what a gather from their website, every order is made to order so it'll probably very from job to job. Here is their web address: http://www.cwibeadlock.com/

no it will not fit, I think some of the raptor 660 rear shocks will fit tho.

Ok here are some pictures of the rims. I just painted the beadlock ring and installed new hardware rim minus ring: back side of rim: weld of beadlock plate: threaded insert (replaceable if stripped): complete rim and beadlock ring:

They were converted ie. welded on. I just got them off of ebay so I can't give you an idea on pricing of the service but I can get you pictures later tonight. :cool: I just wish weld or sanders would make a wheel for the quads, because from my sprint car building days they are some of the strongest and lightest wheel (for a 15" x 18" wheel ) designs i've seen.

I just got a set itp baja's with champion beadlocks installed on them, these are tough as hell and the quality of the work done by champion is top notch.

over the studs, between the two plates

When I had mine I just used vacuum plugs that you can buy at your local auto parts store.

First I hope your planning on splitting the case; you mentioned you killed it running through water, your rods and crank could have taken a beating too when trying to compress that water, ie. hydro-lock. You need to make sure that crank is still true and the rods are actually strait (not just with an eyeball check). Trust me on this one, i learned it the hard way years back. Second I agree with gregrob, I've seen that before and that is definitely a case of being too lean and overheating the cylinder. Were your plugs backed out or loose?

Here is what I did (mind you I do not have stock carbs), I removed the return spring from the throttle housing and then I took a section of pipe and bent the thumb throttle until it was positioned better for my thumb. I haven't had any problems with fatigue since I did this two years ago. Nor have i had problems with the throttle sticking with either of my carb setups (dual pwk 28's or the single 35).

could be, mine was leaking down and around the edge of the cover making it look like the cover was leaking, it wasen't untill I had the bike on it's side; thats when I had a better view of the output seal relizing that was the cause of the leak.

Are you sure the output shaft seal isn't leaking? I thought that it was the nuetral safety switch cover on my bike a while back but turned out to the output shaft seal. I too have a case saver on mine.

I just tweaked my factory one to work for me. I removed the spring inside the the throttle housing (the pwk carb spring is more then enough) and bent the thumb pad to a better suited position. Been riding with it like that for two years now with no problems.

Classic bike for a great price if your near ventura, ca you should pick this one up. I know i would if i wasen't buying a house http://ventura.craigslist.org/mcy/1239062425.html

I know the tamers are good for hardpack but I just wanted to see what people were doing for say for instance soft clay/dirt mx tracks. I got a set for nothing so I just wanted to see what people did for different conditions.

I've searched for a bit but I am unable to find any good pictures of grooving patterns for turf tamers. If any body could provide a good picture of descriptions it would be great. Thanks

They are primarily for helping aftermarket carburetors clear the clutch actuation lever Well you mentioned your looking for a more low-end setup so I would go with the Boyessen 2 stage reed setup. No no no no NO! Pretend that no one ever invented them. Like you said your not looking to spend a whole bunch, so the 2 stage reeds can help, get some used pro circuit pipes, mill your head, and a adjustable timing plate can really get you going for not a whole lot. E-bay and the classified section on here will become your friend.

Think of tierod ends as fueses, you put those beastly ball joints on your tierods and you'll start bending/breaking other things that are more expensive.

ATF type-f because I've used it in many other bikes before with much sucess and I've used in cars before with manual transmissions. They shift like a hot knife through butter compared to using normal gear lube imo.