DallasGDub

That sounds so fukin fresh. What a trip.

Turbonator.... 2 Progresso soup cans: Check 2 Personal desk fan blades: Check 1 Cool infomercial name: Check

Hey Blue, I had PT mids with FB silencers. I had broken one and was looking for a replacement. I ended up changing over to FMF's for my rebuild. I have been riding more open areas and wanted some up top power. My PT's were very nice on the low end and mid. Nice power delivery and punchy when you needed it. Great in tight trails. I would say it really depends on what you ride. Woods+tight Trails = PT's or Pro Cir. And Fouledout421 is right, the ones I have seen were FMF PC2, but had to be cut to fit. They may have a diff FMF that fits.

I forgot about those, they were a little more than I was willing to spend. my bad.

I had zero luck finding some for my PT mids. The male/female ends are opposite from most name brands. But you can cut it and hold it together with rubber clamps.

Yeah, I was thinking JB did it as a joke...lol... Those Duncan intakes look nasty. I would sport it in a heart beat. I had one on mine for the longest just b/c I did not feel like messing with it. It was on their when I got it. My new set up I went with the stock tube after reading all the cons on it. I was going to fab up a overflow tube out of my old one.

The HQ bike had one

Hellz yeah, congrats man. Cool to know a bike like that is going to someone that will admire the work and the time. Not some John Doe. (no offence to any members named John Doe) lol....

Should be about 30 more min.....damn the waiting lol....

Yeah, Pics looks good, just hard to tell. I did see some on a Lifan 250 that were polished alum. The nets bolted to the top like that one. Lifan are the nicer clones.

Look like nerfs off a china clone.

Damn I won't be able to sleep tonight!!!!

I would HAVE to pull it with a 85 lowlow Cutlass. Something like does not see dirt. I admire it the work, just not the taste.

That sucks about Wacko's bike. That bike is sweet...I would have been laid up all day trying to fix that shit. It would give me an excuse to upgrade to a 4mill lol...

yeah, that tip looks a lil diff from the FMF, that looks flush. Some fmf's I have seen has a about a 1" nipple on it, and it concaves inward.

I was 1.5 turns out, 3rd clip, stock P, 280 M, stock motor on pods, 500' 75-85F riding temp. Short bog if I dump the throttle, but I just feathered it out of the hole.

Thanks man. That helps me a ton......I can clearly see now what I am looking for. l will hope for the best. I will keep yall posted. Prolly wont be able to get to until next week sometime. We will know real fast if we can dig it out or not.

I am still running strong, I would blow an oring or somthing if I was to take one of those pills. lol....good stuff. What all needs to be done for turning the motor upside down like boneyardbanshee said? Just a fluid drain on topend, then drain the oil and flip it over?

Gotcha Twizid, it is all starting to make a lot of since. We are going to try and work on it this week. Might have to wait until next weekend b/c this weekend is going to the women. I am also fallowing the other thread b/c I will be placeing a Pancake bearing on my bike I got from HJR. So we are doing both at once. Only his will be a little more to it. Mine is still functional.

Yeah I have heard lot of talk about "Welding the ball to the Shaft," but never really knew what it meant. Just know you dont want it. lol When people say "shaft", does this mean the shift shaft, push rod, or what? Does the ball, push rod, and bearing all come out freely from behind the pressure plate? Is that how we determine we are looking at a welded ball issue? If it does not comeout, is that why the cases have to be split? Thanks for the heads up on that thread. Got it saved. I am sure alot of this will be easier to understand once we take it apart and can see how it all goes together.

I just made this mistake. If your getting a port job, might as well rebuild the topend as well since you have the topend off. (I found out the hard way...) A rebuild will include new pistons, rings, bore and hone. You will be good to go. I got my porting from Kevin Herr, and he did the full rebuild as well. Most reputable builders will do it all for you.

Stock YFZ450's

Welcome to HQ PT Mids are great for lowend-mid power, great power control on tight trails, but a little pricey.

If your bald and broke, save and get some good used tires on craigs list. If you HAVE to get a tire right now, the TSL Super Swamper only b/c it comes in a 22". The others are 25+. I love my Holeshot HD's, but they wear really fast just like Loco posted. I will be looking into new tires next season.

So Scottie D and I were working on his bike, and we noticed a few things going on with the clutch. After searching, we have figured out some of it, and the other stuff has us like WTF. First, with the clutch lever fully pulled, when you place the bike in 1st it jumps forward and the clutch does not seem to disengage. Next, We rode the bike around the corner up to 3rd gear, pulled it back into the garage. Now the clutch has no pressure @ all. The lever stays limp. We checked the shift shaft spring, it seems to be ok and in place. But I can move it freely back in fourth with my hand and little effort. Now we are planning to take the clutch cover off to see what's going on. So my question is, What are we looking for when we take the cover off? What are some of the things we need to check/replace that causes this? (Side Note: After all this, we notice he may have coolant in the oil b/c it was milky greyish, after searching, we fig this is from a bad water pump seal. Would this effect the clutch?) While the cover is off, we plan on upgrading to a billet impeller, pancake bearing, shift star, FAST clutch, and whatever we broke.