gregrob

Give me some details

I now own this. If anyone wants to trade something COOL for it (IE not a wrecked car) I might be up for it. We're gonna see what this engine has next season. If I can't keep up with bonbon's 485 cheetah I guess it's CP Industries > Twister. lol and for the record yes it was curt's old bike, that I got from him. I traded the engine for the smallblock twister. Traded the frame and twister engine for a YFZ Traded the YFZ for a different banshee with the ORIGINAL FAST/CURT engine it. Now I'm trading that one for the CURT frame back with the twister motor, and chaser2 will have the old FAST drag motor. sheesh, makes my head hurt

Bzzzt. Wrong answer They stopped selling them in the U.S. due to emissions standards. You can get an 09 Banshee in Mexico, Canada, Europe, etc etc. Chariot was asking this guy if they were going to release a 2010 model IN THOSE AREAS..

Also make sure the parking brake isnt on if so equipped and that the TORS bs isnt wigging out.

LOL

Weak. Just like I thought, you still cant show me where I said it ran like a turd or where I bashed Jefffs work or tuning. My credibility's treatin me fine, how's yours?

A. Im pretty sure you do too. Good for you B. The PJ's that USED to be on my drag bike were set up by Jeff for sea level, or as close to sl as Kansas is... Kevin Herr is also at sea level so his advice is based on that as well, not where I am. C. I know good and well how rich you can run meth and it wil still run, and I also know the difference when it cleans up and you get close on the jetting from the ground up, pilots, needles, and mains. I've experienced it on my duner where you can actually use the bottom and mid range unlike a drag port and having it well tuned is a beautiful thing. D. I absolutely never one time bashed Jeff's work or tuning on my drag bike. Nor have I ever said "it ran like a turd". Never, period. I have always Jeff did an awesome job porting building that motor, as well as I've said it runs amazingly hard up here and it's cool to think it still has a lot in it because it's set up for sea level. E. The carbs with 68's and needles all the way rich are a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SET OF PJ'S that I set up. Far from being optimized at this point, but it will run without being cleaned out. F. If you're going to question my credibility get your facts straight. Show me where I said the things you claim I did. I would question your credibility as what you've posted here is 100% ficticious No disrespect intended daj. I just wanted to set the record straight. A lot of the supposed FAST bashing is propogated by a few of you guys more than it is reality. I've said more than once Jeff did a great job on this motor and treated me well when I did business with him. His nutswingers on the other hand I have no respect for.

Funny Jeff at FAST had the 70's in those PJ's on my drag bike and I dont remember having to spend half the day cleaning it out. Also funny that I have 68's on it right now and it idles fine and I dont have to clean it out even with a huge main for this elevation and the needle as rich as it will go. In fact you can dump the clutch andpin it right off idle and it will pull through it and light Kevin also uses pilots in the 62-65 range. He was helping me on the setup for these carbs and thats whathe told me to run. 68 was the closest I had.

I might be willing to trade my drag banshee for a nice Raptor. Let me know what you got. Custom K&T reworked frame: Chromoly subframe Reworked engine mounts Dark gray/black hammertone powercoat finish All unnecessary mounting tabs removed Wiring harness relocated and unnecessary parts removed +6 Chrome Ladder Style Swingarm Pro Taper low rise handlebars, large dia mount Adjustable JJ&A Gun Drilled Aluminum Drag Axle Custom dark purple / sparkle plastics on front Engine: 4mil longrod Drag ported stock cylinders by FAST Racing Cylinders are polished New Wiseco Prolite pistons. Maybe 2 tanks of gas on fresh rebuild Pro Design Cool head Custom domes WCR 2-5 full override Straight cut gears Billet clutch basket Direct drive lockup and polished cover with smoked window Blue Powdercoated engine cases. No chain break V Force 3 reeds Billet Intakes Packard extra long K&N air filters 34 Keihin PJ carbs set up on methanol Chrome Shearer Inframe Drag Pipes Ran low 4's in a heavy stock frame with a 270+ rider. Should be able to break into the 3's in with this setup and a lighter jockey. Let me know what you got

I dont run the jetting that big, I just said start there and work down. There are some of Kevin's motors running a .125 main/dump and still have the PJ's open a couple turns and they scream. Other motors and certainly other elevations dont like as much fuel. Hell I'm at a .103 main and PJ's OFF on my duner, but 8,000ft will do that to you. When I ride at home (6000ft or Killpecker 7000) I open the PJ's a little. I told him to start at a .122 main because jets are cheap and you always want to work rich down.

Yeah but youre bigredslowtard and you dont know shit. Youre raptor wont even make it up a granny hill and all your shit is broke bwaahahahhahaha

They will work but not be optimum. You need methanol domes, and the psi thing is debated among builders. Some like more, some like less. What will the bike be doing? Drag only? Or play / drag or what. For a play bike I would shoot for 170-185 psi max and a little looser squish like .055-.060 For a drag only motor that can cool down after every pass you can tighten things up and run more psi

BTW you'll need a #31 numbered bit, that is .122 A 1/8 is .125 obviously if you need to go bigger Oh and DONT go bigger than .125. Also remove one float from the bowls and if you're running longer than 300' on a 4mil I would do a set of oversized billet bowls. If it's bigger than a 4mil I would do billet bowls anyway.

What motor are they on? If its a 4mil or smaller for sea level I would: Drill the dump tubes to .122 Put a set of .122 mains in it (use the same bit to make a set of jets or just install the main and drill all the way thru it and the dump) 68 pilot jet Buy and install a set of EGQ needles. Put them on the next to bottom clip Install a set of powerjets. (You can get them from hjr, k&t etc or ebay, or you can get the expensive dave moore ones) Open the powerjets all the way up and start from there. If its boggy in the midrange lean you needle to the middle clip. If you have to run the powerjet way open to get enough fuel take the mains and dumps to .125 If you have the powerjets almost all the way closed and still too rich, start working your main jet down. .120, .118, .116, .114 etc. .02

How bout you take my advice in this thread and properly measure piston-to-bore clearance in both cylinders, instead of just swapping things around and hoping the noise goes away.

Wrong.

You need to measure your piston-to-bore clearance with the piston in the cylinder. The spec is .003, however that is the spec perfectly centered in the bore. Use a feeler gauge and stick it beside the piston at a few different places. You would use a .006 feeler gauge and go up from there. The .006 gauge on one side = .003 all the way around

Back together and fired. We'll see how it runs tomorrow The KT bowls are beautiful :-D

Well, parts arrived today. Thanks Kevin! Gettin ready go get er apart and back together. Anyone know what size the tap is for the powerjet barb? I got some KT billet bowls and have to put the barb in

I would get the zuki for that price. Those 400's have a good-handling chassis

That's not death from old age. That's lean. I did that one time when I leaned out my needles too far. It was popping in the low / mid range and detonating at WOT. Got it too hot and it was all she wrote, still ran but deformed the piston like that, ruined the dome, lost almost all compression etc. Just a jetting fook up IMO. Did you do a plug chop after all the changes? Make sure everything was tight?

ROFL

110 rod motors rev faster, but they have much less torque for taking off from a dead stop. At least the one I rode did. 115 rods are also at a less aggressive angle, so for long term reliability it's a better design. It puts less sideways stress on the pistons which doesn't wear the cylinder as bad, reduces the chance of piston slap, etc etc. If you're looking at a Vito's short rod crank I would stay away from it altogether. A good trued welded hotrods short rod wouldn't be bad, but I still prefer long. I think if you talk to a builder they would probably recommend a long rod all the way around. .02

OMG what a hideous f'n pos

LOL Dude call Dave at Noss or Brandon or even Kevin Herr and get you a damn set of domes. If you want .3 more HP and want to push every bit of timing you can then get some later when Jeff gets back. It's not going to make that much of a difference though. I ordered domes from Kevin today with my other stuff and Dave cut them and has them headed my way the same day. Hard to beat that, just call somebody and get er dun. BTW I still think you should run methanol... Just get those domes from Kubitza and do it. Let that motor run like it should