Wildcardracing

Who was that directed at?? lol, Maybe you'd get eaten alive up here...he he

What are your supporting mods??? what type of port and what compression you runnin?? Just curious.

I dunno, 75 seems like a pretty lofty goal with stock carbs-dune port and T-3's. How many stock stroke/cylinder bikes have you seen that are in that 70+ hp range with stock carbs?? I'm sure there are builders who can pull it off...no doubt. But, 80-85 is what a lot of big builders stock stroke/cyl drag ports are at on alky with 35.5's and oof's. The reason I mentioned the dyno is because you know as well as I do that 2 dyno's will show 2 different results on the same engine. I agree that dyno's should only be used as a tuning or R&D tool, nothing more.

Something not mentioned yet is that a lot of the cool heads need studs because they have o-rings that seal on the non-threaded portion. If it is a one piece head with copper washers then the bolts would work, but I too recommend studs. Why do you think that in so many performance applications bolts are replaced with studs??? Just something to think about.

I would say BS, but a lot may depend on the dyno used. I think about 65 hp is pushing the limit of the stock carbs.

You can eyeball between your cases to make sure the forks are lining up with the dogs correctly. Splitting the bottom without top works fine, done it several times. Keep in mind you won't be able to pull the crank this way because the pistons won't fit through the upper case.

Don't have any dyno #'s to prove it, but from my experience it makes a difference in the bottom to midrange the most, but is a slight power gain accross the board. The intake charge has a smoother path to flow into the transfer ports so it maintains better velocity.

Pics would be great, as for the crank...it's cheap insurance @ $50

You people from outside the U.S. have got to QUIT posting pics of the 08's on here, I'm gettin jealous...lol Just kidding, nice bike!

Was just curious how many HQ'rs will be heading to Sand Mtn. for Memorial day weekend. I'm planning on being out there Sunday afternoon thru Monday afternoon.

Sorry bud, even went out to the shop and looked at some cases.... couldn't figure out what indentations you were talking about. Are you certain it's not running from the top of your case through the drain holes (fuel/oil)??? It can get pretty thick once the gas evaporates off and it will drip through the drain holes. Sorry I can't help you better with this one.

I feel for ya bro! You could do it pretty quick, the banshee cases are a snap to split since the crank bearings aren't pressed into the halves like our single cylinder bretheren.

I acctually prefer to just buy a whole seal kit, you can get them as cheap as $25 to $40. Not a bad deal when you consider the dealership charges close to $30 for the water pump seal alone.

Ohhh, don't run it if it has an air leak, you'll burn it down for sure.

It'll cost you about $70 for the seals,gaskets, puller and threebond. About 4-6 hours to do it. Yes you need to pull your flywheel to get the stator plate off and the left crank seal, you'll need access to an impact gun to get the gears off for the right seal. you will also have to pull your clutch off (there is a strap behind it with one screw in each case half. The pistons also have to come off to pull the top case off. I'm pretty sure there is a case splitting thread pinned on here. hope that all helps.

Dealership sells them all separate, but grab your ankles lol...they'll probably want $15 bucks for the thing.

Well, I'd say no to the spacer for 2 reasons 1)it will offset your floor to piston crown at BDC even worse 2)it's an other place for an airleak to form.

I haven't seen a lot of them have problems where the cases are glued together if done right, usually base gaskets, reed gaskets, torn intake boots or crank seals are where they form air leaks. Yea they can be a tinker toy at times, but for me that's half the fun.

What type of port are they, reason I ask is because they may be able to be re-ported for the additional stroke which would be the best way. My advice is to sell your ported cylinders and get some vigin ones ported for the 4mil. As it is now the piston is 2mm below the floor of the ports at BDC, if you run a spacer it will be even lower which should hurt performance.

I agree, I'm simply saying that elevation is something rarely mentioned in dyno/hp discussions and it makes a huge difference.

You're running pods now correct?? Sure you'll loose some hp on the dyno running filters as opposed to not, but it's the price we all have to pay for engine longevity. I'm pretty sure the pods make better power than the airbox. I prefer the uni's myself, not for power resons...but do to the fact I have seen the k&n's such dirt, the uni's offer better filtration IMO.

I would do a lead down test to be 100% sure, but sounds like you need to reseal the cases. You'll want to get a new set of gaskets and seals when you do it.

An other factor not mentioned is elevation, keep in mind that K&T is building and dynoing these engines at 5,000 ft elevation so the same 130 hp engine may make 135+ near sea level.

this is a little off subject, but what gears you fellas able to pull the fingers at sand mtn. in? my bike pulls a strong 3rd about 42mph up them. I've got fairly aggressive porting with stock carbs and never have ran the bowls dry.

Most builders trail/woods/MX ports can be recut for a 4mil, but it may end up with more duration than before, which will move the power band up in the rpms. Usually dune ports or anything more aggressive can't be ported for a stroker. As far as the seven mil it will only be possible if the stock port timings have not been altered much if at all.