WINDYCITYJOHN400

Some people go to college Some people go to the school of hard knocks Sounds like your about to get your masters degree in the latter......

Hope the plan ^^^ also includes an actual leakdown test. WOT down a beach WILL work as a leakdown test....but it's not advisable. Otherwise the results will be closer to shampoo directions "wash, rinse, repeat". Wash- glowing pistons with coolant Rinse- metal shavings out of bottom end and rebuild top end Repeat- experiment by throwing leg over bike and hope it doesn't eat $350 worth of pistons in less than 350 yards. At least set up a camera and film it.........you might end up making $10,000 from a home video show. That might offset some of the costs your Trinity education will run you.

.........as predicted. Sadly that Trinity history now has the whole machine stricken with a lethal form of 2-stroke V.D. Hopefully you got a chance to fully inspect that crank. No way of knowing how much prior detonation it suffered thru with the last owner. Since you fixed the dome flaw, you know every previous minute of run time was done under dangerously damaging conditions. Heavy detonation might be the original source of the crack.

Yes you can get some pics.....I'll send them out now. Price $350 plus the ride. Where am I at?.......Let's see....my screen name is Windy City John...... Choices A. Miami B. Green Bay C. London D. Chicago

Buy em' and go up one pilot size. Topic covered heavily. Search....

4 Pics sent.....

Talk about a trial by fire!!!! If your not spewing coolant out the tailpipe by the first turn, you might be OK. If it makes the whole loop......your one lucky guy. Your on the right track though with the things your planning on checking. Fixing the dome shape is #1 on the list of fixes. You get that and the squish right and you will at least have a motor that won't eat itself. Power?....Now that's a whole other story........ Good Luck.

Doesn't work that way.

Factory frame lightened and stretched +4. Uses standard A-arms and shocks of your choice. No title Custom rear subframe Set-up for fullbores and OOF pipes

LMAO So True..... A dome profile for a 68 bore just cant work when the piston is a 72. Sounds simple right? Well...maybe to us.

^^^ LOL See........I spent YEARS saying this stuff! Now I don't even need to say anything. 2 pages deep with people who know these issues and are willing to comment. He saw it all. 4 corner seizure, converging dome shape, the bore probably isn't true top to bottom either. Typical detonation bomb kit from Trinity. Blow those O-rings once, wash the pistons with coolant and watch them warp....then drop $350 on a new set of pistons and try again. Steaming pile of shit. 7 years later and nothing new here. Same story about the same company with the same issues that a "Nobody" like me spent hours on the phone with Harry (Trinity racing owner) trying to explain, yet they can't/won't change a CNC program and fix a defective dome issue............

Credit card dispute. You have all the power. You file a claim and it opens up a crap storm for them. They will credit your account and leave the vendor in the position of needing to prove everything.

Just the Serval. The Super needs the cases bored.

Excess heat from pig fat on gas can come from fuel wash on cylinder walls rinsing lube and adding friction, burn occurring late in the pipe, liquid fuel blocking heat release that would normally occur in the form of fuel steam, and a few other wacky issues. Alky is much more immune to this issue because it works extremely well at absorbing the heat that is in the combustion chamber. There is plenty to the answer....but it requires more words and people hate that so........ It just happens dude.......

This will be classic....and I don't even have to type a paragraph. LOL Knowledge drop in 3-2-1......http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

Sorry, they gotta be 7-8 paddle Skat-Trak EDGE.

I've got one. I even have a template for drilling the bigger hole in the stock tank. How soon do you need it? I'm going to Silver Lake September 20-21-22. If your going I could get it to you then......or if your near the area, meet along the way.

Tried to PM you about this but ......You can't get PM's for some reason.

Outdoor temps don't cause the motor to be hot......HP does that. The O.D. temps only lower the efficiency of the radiator. These bikes are very low on the power levels (Even the 4 mill) so they shouldn't be getting all that hot on their own. (Even with a high O.D. temp.) Your 4 mill DM will get hot, but that's a lot of power going into a cylinder. Your motor got 2 times bigger than stock, but the water pump, hoses, radiator and frontal area of the bike stayed almost the same. So your machine will be more heat sensitive than a mostly stock motor. With a Banshee's nose in the wind and the bike moving (Like was described) the radiator is getting plenty of airflow to cool bikes with those mods if jetted correctly and using good fuel. This ^^^ All good info........... Sounds like you guys went from 803 up to 1500+ and showed up and ran your usual jetting. If the fuel batch was good.....your jetting was the issue because bikes with those power levels shouldn't overtax a stock Banshee cooling system if the bike is moving.

^^^^^ What he said about jetting. Remember dune riding really loads the motor harder than dirt action. Your jetting is more than likely the issue, But....... Any chance you guys got a bad batch of gas? I know one guy we ride with bought 5 gallons of premium for a ride. He used that same batch 2 weeks later and it had gone so bad that he needed push starts to get going. Not many people are buying the premium fuels these days, so I think it's sitting in the ground a lot longer than it use to. Your bikes are all mostly stock and if jetted correctly should cool just fine even in those high outdoor temps. With all 3 bikes acting up........I'm thinking it's fuel related. Either jetting or fuel quality issues.

Put bungy cord from fender to fender and place a large object in the center of the cord so you can jack the fenders up and make them curl up kinda like folding a taco. Over bend them a bit and let it sit like that all week. You can also heatgun them to help lock in the shape.

Get a brand new Racetech stator. Racetech FTW!

Looking for some 7-8 paddle SKAT-TRAK EDGE design paddles. Kinda open to whatever sizes you might have so....let me know what you have.

Perfectly understandable..........I believe your top offer was $305.

Gotta disagree. Overheating Banshees are so common it's a stereotype. Litterally every banshee motor I have torn down has had a water impeller that was warped or so worn it look like a dog chewed on it. I had a Banshee that I bought years ago and the impeller warped enough to lock up and cause the drive gear to break......motor heats up fast at that point. Next thing you know you have blown o-rings and it can go very wrong after that. I'm sure a brand new factory impeller will work great. But once that plastic impeller gets overheated once.....I wouldn't trust it. So I will always run a Pro Design or a Mull engineering unit.