WINDYCITYJOHN400

Yep. vvvv

IR guns can vary in readings when aimed at metal. Especially when the angle changes or the surface is round. That may not answer or solve your question, but it happens.

Yep I run the unit from KOSO. Mounted right up center on my bars as is my KOSO EGT gauge. Glance down as I 'm headed back to the starting line to make sure I'm cooled down. Then a glance at my EGT'S as I pull 5th and again as I pull in the clutch in the shutdown and I will know if I'm seeing aluminum melting temps. Both gauges store max temps so I can go back and check them on the return road to make sure everthing is perfect. (It's not a full data logger, but it's close.)

What do you use the bike to do?

Found it! For anyone else who might need their number - 1-623-915-8956 Still in business. Just wanted to make that clear. Thanks guys.

Sorry to all the phone readers who are going to have to scroll though this..... I was just saying....you own a drag bike. It spends most of it's time making quick passes. (The OP might not know that your not out riding trails with it.) Then I was just joking about the way drag guys go about getting ready to make a run. (notice the winking and smiling face at the end?) More light hearted joking. (See all the smileys?) I even noticed you were going to be at the dunes when I was and was looking forward to meeting up again. Where the hell do you see me belittling you? How do you make such an epic leap to think I'm saying you have no knowledge of your bike? Insults?.....Do you mean me saying you don't know what temp your motor makes the most power at? Without a water temp gauge, you won't know. But that doesn't mean you aren't a good racer or able to win. It just means you don't include water temp monitoring in your process. I think monitoring cylinder temps are an important factor in consistency. NHRA teams warm the cars to the same temp for every run and even document track and tire temps pre and post burnout. From all my dyno testing I know my bike likes to be at 160-165 degrees at the start of a drag race. When we are hot lapping drag races at the dunes, I pick my "return road speed" based off of how long it takes my bike to cool back down to 160. Tyler, I'll admit I snapped at your comment. But your a dick to me 24/7 so it read like you were correcting me. Understanding a topic doesn't make one an expert at doing the work. I don't port because (Like you) I trust top people in that trade to do it well. Cameron is a perfect match for my motor porting needs. A year ago I started offering up info about testing the V4's. For the better part of that time you have worked hard at bashing anything I had to say on the topic. The scope of the motors tested is listed in those posts. Now a year later, you want to act all interested.......go do a search. (Obviously my REDLINE 10 mill cub was one of them) I offered openly (More that a few times) to test ANY PIPES that people wanted to test. (Mostly to help get more dyno testing out into the real world about pipes like Sniper and Rockets) I don't own a dyno, but I have unlimited access to one at no charge since I built/remodeled most of the shop for my Sponsor/Best friend. I'd love to see the results of a pipes test. If Cameron does the testing I'm sure everyone will value the results. Would I like to be there in person?.....Yes! Dyno days are always fun. Lots of people show up to see the action. I'd love to be there when it happens. But if I was going to take time off to go west, I'd be dropping my gear in the sands of Glamis. LOL I'll be more than willing to trust Cameron's test results without having to see them in person since the dyno we have is the exact same model. I was not contacted to do the testing on the v4's. (I have NEVER implied that in any way) My best friend and sponsor Jay Jahns at Illinois Powersports in Elburn Illinois was contacted thru one of his contacts over at MT to do testing on the new reeds. As I am affiliated with Jay and damn near part of the staff over there, as soon as the reed designs would come in....I would be called out there for the tests. My roll in the testing involved running My REDLINE 10 mill cub, my wife's D+M ported 370 long rod bike as well as me being there for the use of many of Jay's builds that were owned by other customers. Bikes from bone stock, long rods, 4 mills, even other cubs. (Many from my ride group.) You wanted me to post dyno curves. But they were "Work Product" of both Illinois Powersports and MT and not mine to post. It's not really professional to post results that ultimately end up bashing a product that was still in production. (V3's) But since I was privileged to be right there and involved for all the testing, I thought sharing the real world info with fellow HQ members would be helpful. So I did. Plenty of members here have seen the top performing prototypes in my bike (I showed them to Shayne and Ron and many others out on the dunes) and a few have been out to the shop to see the stack of designs that didn't make the cut. Heck I even kept a spare set in the truck so people could hold them in their hand and see what they looked like. My bike was the main platform for the testing because it's a motor build from a known top builder and has some extra data sensors. I have EGT probes in my pipes and a water temp gauge. Running consistent water temps is vital to getting good back to back repeatable runs on both the track and the dyno. With the data the dyno tracks and the extra info we could track with the sensors already on my bike, we were able to get good stable data on the differences between the reeds. (Stable enough to see a 1 HP increase with an airscrew adjustment.) So that lead us back to my original comment. Get a water temp gauge. They are valuable.

I tried getting ahold of Metal Tech recently and had no luck. Anyone know what the latest news is regarding them? Anyone have a contact number?

FFS The WORLD knows Cam did my motor. Go climb a hill. Hey, OP......Buy a 4-stroke and steer clear of all this drama.

Dave it's clear that you didn't hear me ASK YOU FOR THE TRUE DETAILS. Now I never yold you what I BELIEVE TO BE TRUE. But I DID take the time to ask you directly for details. I NEVER called you a liar and what I told you was me voicing some of the behind the scenes stories that I heard. NOT STUFF I BELIEVE TO BE FACTS! So STOP acting like I'm some dumbshit who only knows what one or two people tell him. I talked with you for a long ass time and I was completely open-minded to the info you were providing and you were treated with respect. Anyone who reads my rants should understand I'm clearly NOT one to just believe what I read or am told. When I share info I clearly use plenty of words to explain my stance on an issue because I expect others to use whatever facts they are given to make up their own mind. If I tell you "I heard this...." it's what I heard. If I tell you "I think this...." it's what I believe. Please make the effort to understand the difference because your obviously talking shit about me and getting the facts wrong. I politely spoke with you over the phone and with Shayne in person and enjoyed both conversations. But sadly you two sound pretty set on sticking to the hater roles. That's too bad because riding is more fun with people you like......

Wow, so changing tire pressure and swapping a gear or two was too much effort to be worth while? Heck I had a compressed air canister, low pressure tire gauge, front sprockets from 13-17 and rears from 41-45 as well as a full toolbox sitting right in our base camp. Wish you would have said something.....I would have lent you anything you needed and even helped you just so you could have had more fun. Don't know why you keep implying that I get my info from others in the form of phonecalls.....l was there and raced your big DM with the OOF pipes you came over to show me. I was running a 10 mill CUB on 110 race gas with with SB In-Frames and small 35Pwk's that were bored to 37's. I had my issues too, but I still was willing to run a few races for fun. We raced.....I won. (Tyler would say that's all that matters.) LOL I saw you posted your going to be at Silverlake on the 19 thru the following weekend. I'll be there the 19-20-21 with my new porting and Mikuni 41's still on gas. Come on by and say hi. I'll show you my cool water temp gauge and my exhaust temp probes and maybe we can do a couple more laps for fun.

Ummm we raced that day we talked on the dunes. The bike was running like crap and I asked you "Why don't you dial it in?" (I'm sure it's run good since then, but it ran like crap the day you came over to talk to me.) Your answer was first "This motor is too much for this chassis" Then after hearing it run so rough you said "I don't wrench on the dunes, I come to have fun." I didn't think adjusting carbs was that big a deal but it's your weekend. Then I said let's just line them up for fun. (I wasn't afraid to loose a race.) I wasn't expecting my Race gas 10 mill cub to beat a 12-14 mill DM.....But I did. (No glory....the thing wasn't dialed in at all.) So if you would like to imply I'm drunk...fine. But I just read two posts you made. In one you talk about still needing to get your DM dialed in and in the other you talk about dialing in a 350. I saw the DM 2 years ago! AT THAT TIME it was running like a wet turd........Just saying.

Hope.......Isn't that what got Obama elected?

Sorry, that was mostly made up........... I have no idea how high you count before you stage your bike. Also, for all I know that big Alky powered DM might be running in the 3's......I was just going off the last time I saw it when it was running so poor you could barely keep it running. (But I'm sure that had nothing to do with temperature.) I'll be at the dunes again on the 19-21........swing on over since you'll be up there and we'll chat again.

Looks pretty basic. Then again....listing a price is pretty basic and I'm sure you just use the same buttons on the phone to add the price to the listing as he used to start the post in the first place. Does it look free?.....it doesn't look like it's for sale...... I'll offer $1550 delivered to Chicago area. Welcome to the HQ.

^^^^ Has a Banshee that only runs for 4 seconds at a time. ^^^^ Also has no idea at what temp his motor makes it's best power........Goes with the 1-one thousand, 2-one thousand, 3-one thousand method, then feels the pipes..... (Same method if it's 60 or 90 outside)

So basically you have this one friend.... and one time at band camp he got fucked by Trininty? Anyone surprised? LOL

Banshees are only seen as unreliable because MOST banshee owners don't know dick about jetting and carburetors. They do mods, then ride it for 20 minutes. After that they figure re-jetting wasn't needed. Then one day they ride it harder or longer or faster than before and it burns up a top end. Or they freshen a top end on a 20 year old crank and are shocked to have the bottom end coming out the headpipes. If you keep a good tune on a Banshee it can handle anything as long as you keep air moving thru the radiator. (Do you know how many ten-thousand dollar + Banshees are out there with owners that wouldn't spend another $100 for a water temp gauge? Buy a Banshee Don't trust that just because it didn't blow up yet, that it's tuned correctly. Any machine is an animal you are responsible for taming and training. The more mods you have.....the wilder the beast. Don't go climbing into a lions cage untill you know whatvtheblion needs to eat, how to feed it and how to notice when it's having a bad day. Any fool can take his stock Banshee and buy a fully ported 4 mill kit and slap it together..... But if you never learned how to tune your old motor......your bound to end up a sorry pile of bones on the lion cage floor with the new animal. That's why I say your going to have to know how to spin wrenches. If your just a jockey.......stick with a bone stock 4-stroke. If your willing to learn to be a lion tamer......then get a Banshee and that big lion will just be a pet you keep on a leash. Ride a Lion because nobody is impressed with seeing you riding a housecat. (although some of the sicko's around here might be a little turned on by that mental image.) LOL

Well your supposed to attatch those ground straps to the motor. That's the point. Your providing a much better ground that a stock Banshee has. Also I challenge you to ride your machine enough hours to brake down your wires. (Just not going to happen.)

If you know nothing about motors and carburetors.....and don't want to.....stick with a 4-stroke. Those will run flawlessly till they start needing a push start. (At that point your valves have ruined your head and it's time to drop it off somewhere and spend big coin on a full rebuild.) Or buy a Banshee........and plan on getting very familiar with your motor and your tools. This is not a sport for Sallys with no mechanical ability.

Better to try a coating of blue locktite......

Grease on a flywheel? You know the key's job isn't to hold the flywheel right?

Eat more fast food = More bottom end. Or try one or all of these - Drop one front tooth Add +4 timing Get some FMF fattys Get a cool head with higher compression domes Get your motor ported Clean your filters Work on learning to tune your carbs better Buy bigger motor Loose weight Buy a Raptor 700 and do "The big 6 mods"

Turbine cores are fine. I've made 70Hp with them.

I think he's talking about flywheels NOT coming off. (The flywheels are known to "bond" to the billet cranks for some reason.)

Thought about buying Nology hot wires?