WINDYCITYJOHN400

Graydon 2 into 1 with a 35PWK. FTW You can find the Graydons on ebay ever once and a while. (They don't make them any more.) I have a 370 long rod motor that made 63HP with the single carb.

Ummm no need for sealer like that on the head gasket. I agree....time to do some major cleaning and maybe pony up for a cool head with some O-rings. Looks like you have a little trouble doing the gasket thing. Detonation could be from a water impeller full of that sealer or blocked water passages causing the motor to run way too hot. Or....as usual the overheating issue could be jetting too lean. (I always lean towards this until something else is found.)

And buy a new clutch cable.

So some of us are going riding this Saturday at the Badlands. Thought I'd just put it out there in case anyone was interested in going. I looked and they are calling for Rain Friday night, so I'm hoping that will cut down the dust a little. (I was at Fox valley off-road last weekend and my outerwears looked like they were made of clay.) LOL They are running the extended summer hours (9am to 7pm) so we don't have to rush out of there by 5:00. Anyone up for a ride?

Well a billet impeller is kind of a must and making that move sure can't hurt. Also you can get the metal drive gear from Mull engineering and then you never have to worry about the pump not driving. (It's just damn good insurance.) After you do that you can rule out lack of water flow as the problem. Then I would try hand squeezing your hoses as you refill the system to be sure you don't have an air lock. Then run the bike and see if you get an exhaust smell in your coolant or any signs of oil floating at the top of the radiator. Possible head gasket leak only when motor gets hot. (Might pass leak down test.) Check exhaust for a plug up of some sort. (mouse nest...dead animal...it happens.)

Here's an idea, why don't you get off your ass and come to one of the rides. You don't have a clue what your talking about. 4 mill OEM cylinder bikes???? The only YFZ450 that was beating me was a fully dragged bike that makes 70+HP on motor and has another 30 worth of nitros. (all info provided directly to me by the owner) For the millionth time. "I'M RACING A DUNE BIKE ON 110 RACE GAS AGAINST ALL THOSE LIGHT DRAG ALKY BIKES!" Can't you get that thru your thick skull? I'm not going to be a top dog contender out there. The goal is to lay down some impressive runs with a gas bike that is not totally dragged out. I'm doing that. I'm not claiming "I'm the best and smartest guy out there." I'm not talking like I'm setting the world on fire. You just think that everyone has to pass you on the track to be able to talk. Here is a news flash for you.......the reason people don't understand why your busting my balls, is because I'm not claiming to be faster than you. I'm not claiming to be anything more than I am. I'm a guy who rides the dunes. Your not. Your a drag racer. I test all kinds of parts and combos on a dyno. You test a few different parts and combos on the track. I'm sure that your track testing has provided you with plenty of info about what works on the track. My dyno testing tells me why it works. You posed a question a while back about reeds as some kind of knowledge challenge. You wanted me to list what reeds made more power and by how much. Well just for kicks....why don't you tell everyone the answers to that question? You have bashed dyno testing as useless.....yet you seem to value dyno numbers when it suits you. I've privately seen Sniper dyno runs for over a year and was publicly predicting the lack of performance that we are now seeing posted by Sniper owners. (That doesn't make me the smartest guy in the world....but it shows that some smart people are willing to share with me what they know.) I'm willing to share the knowledge that I gain with the members of this site. THAT is valuable to a lot of people. Most members of this site don't own a motor that makes triple digits HP wise. Most never will. Even less are doing it on gas. The information I'm sharing is for people who want to make choices one time. Not buy 3-4 different parts and try to test them to see what will happen. My testing and willingness to share that info is why people look at posts like this. They want good info from knowledgeable people about the products they have to choose from. You want to keep talking about fitment? Here's a little tip. "If you buy some NEW Shearer pipes and they don't fit on your bike.....send them back right away for a full refund." (You can do that you know.) But if you find that they don't fit for some reason, yet you still want to run them with every fiber of your being (because you KNOW they are THE BEST PERFORMING PIPE) Then deal with the fitment. Shit, Tyler has a Banshee motor mounted in a hybrid honda frame...yet he talks about having to mod a pipe like it's the most traumatic thing that he's ever been through. If you want to run a BB pipe on a 10 mill even though Matt says the SB will perform better...then don't get upset when it doesn't fit. The funniest part of all of this is that the guys who are the most upset with the fitment and bitch about it the hardest....(Loco, fouleduout421, etc.).... still haven't bought a single set of Snipers and somehow HAVE Shearers mounted on their bikes. Form follows function obviously. (What does DaJagOff jr's avitar say?) Truth hurts. Take a look......quite a few of you are actually posting questions about the performance of the Snipers now. (Don't let these loud school bus bullies silence your concerns) Redline, Matt, M+M, and a few others have some dyno runs in the dyno section on this site and others that will make you question the Passion/Sniper performance even more.

Ummm he said "Most 4 mill cubs on alky make 104on that dyno...this is a Passion 10 mill and it's only hitting 104 on the Snipers. So...........What the heck is wrong with this motor?

It says right in his post that they are all OOF pipes? Details....they can be important.

I was putting it out there to the members that someone should send me a set to test. (I have seen other peoples dyno tests...but professionally they asked that I not use them as a topic for discussion.) I saw Mailman's runs a YEAR AGO! But he didn't want to make a big issue about it publicly. I guess you wouldn't know anything about that since you really don't know shit anyway. Nobody was reading about my dyno testing of the new V-4's till they broke the news to the vendors. Now that it's public knowledge I can talk. I've had PM's from people on this site who have, or have access to Snipers and a few of them are talking about making a road trip to do some testing. I have even offered to do the testing on their own bikes so that they have some real world idea of what their bike is making. Then see what they get from the Snipers. So I was never "Turned down" on a free set of pipes. I don't want a free set. I just want to be able to do some tests that I can share publicly, because the ones I have seen are off limits for public argument. My statement that "If they are good I'll promote them" is true. If something works....i'll say it works. If that means I have to eat my words...so be it! But I also have enough behind the scenes info to know I'm not sticking my neck out with that statement. Maybe you have a hard time understanding the difference between begging and a taunt. See............Still a Dick. Keep kissing ass till you actually try the set of pipes you got. Really not much difference??? Well, everyone can go back and check, but I'm sure that I've said a few times that I think Snipers would be the best pipe for a Passion build. Yet..... Once again here we are with Snipers best effort at building a pipe for your specific motor vs. Shearers basic off the shelf SB pipe........and I'm not seeing the +10 HP we keep hearing about. So that's TWO DYNO POSTS NOW from owners of Passion motors who don't show anything close to a +10HP advantage over the Shearers. People were worried that guys were going to put these pipes on motors that were "Built to favor Shearers" and that the biased results were going to reflect negatively on the Snipers. Here we have the Sniper mounted on motors that are clearly built to favor the Snipers and I've yet to see the promised performance. Truth. Chew on that for a while. Jim?.......Gary?.....Hello?......This dyno run is over a year old. Would you care to post the updated runs where ....You easily tuned it to make the +10 HP? Or did you not get around to doing that for this customer yet. Wait....one last question. Is this an alky motor? I'd assume so with the OOF pipes, but I thought I'd check.

Pull out the reed stuffers. (stick your finger in the round hold that farces the carbs and pull out the square plastic insert. Then replace it with your new inserts. The more power your motor makes...the bigger the HP gains you will see. 100HP bikes can see +3HP.

Digitron make a nice unit. I run the KOSO unit. (Twin EGT) They have a model now that has the EGT along with Water temps and a tach. I've not heard of a model that kills the motor.

Ummmmmmmm.......What the fuck are you talking about turbo charged motors for? Does Sniper offer a better turbo pipe than Shearer now? Your getting to the point where your working so hard at flexing your knowledge, that your spewing about everything you know or have heard. Here, remember this guys original question? He's got a 535 and was looking for Sniper feedback. Mailman posted some 554 Sniper runs. (Pretty close to s 535 in size) Tyler was just telling us about his @ 130 HP DM.........Till you decided to share your personal thoughts on turbo bike design. What kind of bike do you have again?

All things in good time young grasshopper. You can see some more dyno runs when you come back out.

All I can do is report what testing shows. Anyone who's been in the game knows that the V-2's made more overall power than the V-3's. but the 3's had better throttle response on most motors. (Not important to the drag crowd...but if you ride Dirt/MX/Woods/Trials in any way the 3's were the best choice. So now they took the best of the V-2 design, coupled it with the V-3 reed mounting, went with a fantastic petal shape and offering it in a package that will really give you the great low end power, throttle response and strong top end all in one package. Lovers of the V-2's will be a hard group to win over because 90% of them have never been on a dyno and don't even know how much power they are making. But they are great tuners that use track results to determine the value of a part. Sadly they didn't like the V-3's so the'll stick to what has worked for them for years. (That's fine, V-2 petals are still something that they can buy.) But the new 4's were right on par with the V-2 performance. They still make even more power than V-3's with the reed stuffer mod, plus they need a lot more fuel early in the curve due to the better low end torque they make.

Tricked.....everything you just said is spot on correct. V-2's make more power than 3's. (But if you do the reed stuffer mod on the 3's you can gain HP depending on the motor. My 10 mill gained 3 HP.) But the 4's made even more power than the modded 3's. (Yes I have the 4's in my bike as we speak and did the dyno testing.) The 4-5 HP improvement claim will be over stock style reeds. But the 4's are right on par with the 2's as far as performance. The stronger the motor, the bigger improvement. So instead of searching the globe for the last remaining 2's ......you can get the 4's with the new reed mounting system and stuffers that actually HELP performance and make great power without ever worrying about screws falling into your motor. Also, as much as the 2's are known for great performance.....they are also known for short petal life. That should not be an issue with the new 4's.

Finally someone hits on this point. The BB pipes were made for motors that will need BB pipes. A motor like a 421 cub is not supposed to be running a BB pipe. BB pipes were made for longer stroke motors in cc sizes around 535 and larger. If you have a smaller stroke motor, your exhaust sits lower on the cylinder than a taller stroke motor. (Think about people who run a 4 mill crank and a spacer plate....the pipes will raise up too!) So people buy a pipe thinking that it's the best fit for their build instead of calling the guy who makes them and asking what pipe they should run. Also this never gets mentioned, but when Calvin casts these cylinders the bottom and the top of the cylinder need to be machined to be plumb with the bore. Sometimes the bore section can be a little off plumb and the cylinder needs to be made true again. Fixing this alignment issue can cause the cylinder itself to be tilted forward or back slightly. Thus putting the exhaust exit angle and height at a slightly different point from time to time. Now that's not a knock at Calvin, because that's just the way things go in the world of cast cylinders. (Everyone has seen a core shift every once and a while.) That doesn't mean it's bad or wrong....just different. But Matt get's the blame if the pipe doesn't fit. I previously pasted pictures that "2strokespirit" posted showing brand new Shearer In-Frame pipes mounted nicely in two different frames. He ordered 4 sets and had NO ISSUES with them. He mentioned that he had bigger issues with the one set of CPI's that he bought at the same time. A person having a problem with one set of CPI's does not prove that Shearers fit. Those pictures of Shearer pipes mounted nicely in the frame prove that they fit. I was struck by the fact that after all the bashing of Shearer fitment, that a set of CPI's would be a bigger issue than anything the Shearers posed. Tyler just out of curiosity, how much HP are you making with your RELINE DM with SHEARER pipes? I just thought I'd ask since nobody has talked about Snipers or Performance since I made my "Fitment cheerleader" comment. I think we have sufficiently covered the fitment debate at this point and I was just curious if anyone wanted to get back to taking about the 99HP Passion/Sniper DM runs that Mailman posted?

Well pictures are worth a thousand words, and I know how you hate when I rant....so... I figured that with all the people posting that Matt should work on better fitment. A recent picture of some brand new pipes actually mounted on a bike might just be relevant. The fact that the guy is more unhappy with the way the CPI's fit should be a pretty strong point.

Tyler Why did you delete this post that I made last night? Was it because it went up right after you posted bashing the Shearer fit? This is a guy who bought 4 sets of Shearers and he's more upset with the one set of CPI's that he bought. Clearly Shearers fit on bikes without pry bars and welders. Here is proof. Note I also have Shearers on my bike and they fit fine. Come to think of it they fit on the guys bike that had them before me too.I posted pictures from an un-biased source. Hell the guy is in South Africa! I pulled the pictures from a different post. So the pictures are free of any bias on my part or the person who took the pictures. If your going to continue to pull down posts like you did just because the pictures prove another side of a story......then I'm going to assume your willing to manipulate this form to favor whomever your allegiance is with.

Glenboy......I like your sense of humor.

Aren't you the guy that said this? ^^^^^^ That'll look awesome on a T-shirt.

Well here's a statement l can agree with. The 100LL AV fuel actually has a higher Octane rating than it appears if it was rated the same as auto fuel. Lead is one of the better detonation preventers out there. Tim Bond over at Titan racing says you can go from 100LL to vp110 and can do it with just air screw adjustments. (Basically domes designed for VP110 with work the same with 100LL) He also says that motors that run on the 100LL end up running cleaner and have better lube from the lead. (The older cars ran leaded and it helped lube the valves and valve seats.) I'd run the 100LL myself except here in Illinois they treat AV fuel like a controlled substance. You try to buy 5 gallons and they just about pit you on a National terrorist list. So I wasn't kidding. Mailman was running 100LL and it should be just like numbers and performance you would see from VP 110. 108 at the worst.

Ask Dajogejr.......after all....I'm nobody. He has his finger on the pulse of the sport and hangs with all the fast "racers". He should know all about it. Go to the other post and look at the pics. (I'll give you a hint....they look like very close to the 2's with the mounting system of the 3's.) So no more screws in your motor. Plus the stuffers work! Plus they have the top performing reed petal material that they have ever had.

Did you just post without reading what others said? (There is some inside info if you just look for it.) For the record....don't place an order with this online parts provider. (They are Trinity.) Buy from your favorite site sponsor or usual online provider when they are finally released. You 250R reed guys are going to have a bit of a wait...........

Yeah...but remember..... According to some people on here......."I'm nobody.'" HP gain will depend on the amount of power your motor can make. Will you see 4-5 HP more from your 45 HP bolt on bike? Well probably not in the peak number. But making 2-3-4 more up the entire face of the curve is still more power. Unported bikes will see throttle response improve and lower RPM torque numbers go up for sure. Ported fully built bike should see improvements in everything. The young guys over there have finally convinced the owner to start catering to the fully built bikes. (As they say...there aren't any more "Stock" Banshee's out there.) LOL. I'll tell you this much. You all better get good at tuning pilots. Cause your going to need more fuel on the bottom end to feed them. Front side curve (low to mid torque/HP) is much stronger. But...................I'm just guessing.