WINDYCITYJOHN400

When somebody finally says something I didn't already say in the original review I gave.....you let me know. Till then keep looking like a fool as every review echoes my original assessment. Every Butt Dyno, Dyno Sheet and Personal Review in this post has been positive. The only negatives about the 4's are from the haters who just want to flap their gums. That's not just a 3-4 HP difference. Look at the curve at 7600. That's almost a 7 HP improvement. Plus they say they didn't re-jet. The 4's need one pilot size larger. They could make even more bottom end. With 7 more HP in the mid and more overall......I sure think that $200 for some reeds is a better investment than a set of Snipers. LMFAO At least this performance is repeatable!

You can have a shop balance them. Our dyno tires are balanced. (When they are going 100 on the roller, if they aren't balanced...your going to notice.) LOL. You can get the adhesive weights and put them on the inside of the rim. We have a small Snap-on wheel balancer for doing ATV, Kart, Motorcycle and even small trailer tires. But a auto balancer might be able to do it, if they have a small enough cone to center the wheel. Otherwise I've seen guys use the tapered cone style bubble balancer that was developed for balancing mower blades.........

Bro Crew endorsed.

So this dude that you don't think likes you... calls you a dick and you let him drink your beer and ride your machines and burn your gas? Let me know when your next trip is .......Dick.

They need to go one size bigger on the pilots than what you had before......if you had V-2's or V-3. If your going from a different reed set-up, go bigger on the pilot and tune from there.

You were one of many who push started him that weekend. We finally found a guy with a blown up Banshee and borrowed his kicker. (I told Nick it wouldn't take long till one of the many Banshees blow up.) LOL I might try and go in October. (We have a trip planned for THIS weekend. Sept. 21-22-23)

Yes, always be ready to put yourself between your bike and the tree........you will grow back, the bike won't.

Nick was up there in june this year...... He's got video from that weekend posted. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=158998&st=0&p=1388297&fromsearch=1entry1388297

We had a 4 mill Vito's cylinder bike that was running 34PJ's. That's about as small as I would go and that motor was smaller. The PJ's are really tough to get in tune also. I'd say 35PWK or 39PWK. You don't get torque from running small carbs. You can't make torque if you can't feed the motor a good mix of fuel and air. If your planning on running an air box...then that's just restriction #2. Starting to sound like you bought way too much motor for what your trying to do. Get a set of 35PWK's and a set of filters and outerwears and you'll be just fine. Forget the air box. If your friend is bringing 34's....is he bringing intakes too?

Pistons are quite a bit more money. Super cub in a 7 mill with require BB pipes. Some will say you could get away with running the SB's, but I think you would be leaving potential HP on the table. I had the Full Cheetah with the 72 bore (Same piston as the super cub) I just went to a 10 mill cub and am very happy with the results. The 4-7-10 mill cubs are real runners.

When your carbs are way undersized, the jets will flow WAY more fuel than normal. (It's like your sucking on a straw harder than normal.) The motor will be crazy fat. Leaning it down will help it run better, but your SO FAR OFF on your carb size, that riding the bike with that set-up is just way too risky. Like you have seen, it'll be a nightmare to keep happy. On the low end the jetting will be fat. As the motor revs it will lean out. But.....you might never find a balance. So your risking burning up a new motor. What would you do if just before your trip, you couldn't find any shoes or boots to wear? Would you still just go and ride barefoot? This is the same situation.....your not prepared for this trip because your carbs aren't ready for that big motor. Just like riding all day in your bare feet....you can try it, but is it worth the damage? Your machine, so it's your call. But I've seen this before and the jetting will never be right. It's either happy in the low RPM's or happy in the pipe. But if you figure on letting it stay fat on the bottom end so you won't risk leaning it too far down on the top....you'll end up with fouled plugs and the bike's going to run like crap no matter what. At least you know that the fix is easy. Get some bigger carbs and you'll not only make more power...but you'll be back in the ballpark as far as jetting advice.

I hear ya. Ammo ain't cheap these days. (Dropped $1,500 for ammo this year on our Memorial day shoot.) But if they don't own guns....how would they know? Sounds like you should have got your ass hairs up sooner and gave them "The Man Speech" You should have mentioned the basic man rules or even gone on to an etiquette explanation. If he didn't snap into shape....then you take the discussion to the guy who brought him. You tell that dude to keep his boyfriend in line. Or just go out and eat after, and when the check comes, tell him "you can just get this and that'll make us even for the ammo" Then walk out. LOL.

465 10 mill with stock carbs? Um, we all like to debate carb needs from time to time. I'm a fan of finding different ways to do things. I have no problem with single carbs on 350-370 size motors, and we've made 75HP with stock carbs on a 400. But if your running stock carbs on a 465......your doing it wrong. You might as well use DG pipes and 2 pairs of socks for an outerwear while your at it. Get some 35's or 39's and try again. If your really running carbs that small on that motor....your going to be WAY out in left field as far a jetting. You might need tiny pilots due to the excessive signal strength they will see with that big motor sucking like crazy on the jets. Seriously, get some bigger carbs.

A probe in a spark plug hole. Find top dead center for one side and the other should be a bottom dead center at the same time. (I saw you have a hot rods crank....so that's probably not the issue.)

True. Excellent point. You buy pieces and parts, then one day you decide to do a full motor build and you find out 1/2 the pieces you bought don't fit the new puzzle. I'd say save now and buy a whole motor combo rather than blindly slapping pieces together. Besides....how many times do you really want to work at re-jetting new combos? Save your cash and go big a little later. Focus on safety for now. Get ready for more power. Upgrade to better shocks, fresh chain and go through the brakes so your ready to handle the additional HP.

Starting from scratch will cost you 4 times as much for sure. That's just for a basic bike build. I'd start with a runner and mod it from there. It's way cheaper.

My trick is to stick the filter on the end of my shop vac hose. I use the aerosol K&N oil. Then with the vac running, I spray paint the filters with oil from just far enough away that all the oil mist is drawn into the filter. It gives the filter a nice even coat of oil with very little wasted in overspray. If you heard the vac motor pitch change, you will know for sure you over did it. I make 2 light passes. One spraying clockwise and the other counter clockwise. That way your sure to spray the faces of each pleat. NOTE: The shop vac idea is a great way to make sure the filter has totally dried before you oil it. Just let it pull through the filter for 5 min......Speeds things up if your rushing to prep for a ride.

I wouldn't keep riding it till you fix the issue.

Many things can cause a backfire, but I alway go to ignition based sources first. #1 - make sure the flywheel didn't spin on the crank. (AKA come loose, go for a ride, eat the key) If the flywheel spins at all on the crank it can advance the timing ALOT. #2 - Check crank phasing. If your crank isn't welded, the webs can sometimes shift and no longer be in phase. (No longer 180 apart) This can cause one cylinder to fire too soon and backfire. #3 - Check to make sure your pickup coil hasn't shifted. I start with that.

Frank, Ron (421alkybanshee) said he's going to drive up for the day on Saturday as log as he get's his top end back together. So our group of members is getting bigger. Is Mark coming with you? Anyone else thinking of going to Silver Lake this coming weekend? (21-22-23)

Heat Lemme guess.....It ran real strong right up until it didn't, and you never heard a thing till it just locked up.

Perfect.

Interested in what?...A long walk along the lakefront? The quad sold. ^^^^^^^^^^

Nice. Did you go up on the pilot for these tests, or was it a drop in and ride situation?

Illiterate? No. I can read. Can you? Maybe you could focus on the part where he says "The Snipers made about 100HP and the Shearers made about 110." Maybe THIS is a reason why people don't believe Gary. I'll repeat......... I haven't posted any dyno runs because those tests were "Work Product" and the results of the tests are property of Moto Tassinari (V-Force) I have described the test findings of the final reed design because it gives the general outcome of the reed design and it's characteristics vs. the V-3's and V-2's. I have refrained from making concrete HP claims because some people can only understand final or peak HP numbers. (For example - If I were to post a dyno run that showed a 100HP pass and it was 3 more HP than with 2's or 3's....somebody is going to say "My 18 mill cub made 130HP with 2's so my 2's make more power.") So I'm NOT promising anybody a damn thing. I'm NOT bashing another brand. I'm NOT telling everyone to go buy the 4's. I'm NOT saying the 2's or 3's are obsolete. I'm just posting what the characteristics of these new reeds are. All I've said is if your interested in the new 4's...."Buy with confidence." Your results may vary, but they should fall in line with the qualities I have reported. I'm just being honest and passing on test results. Maybe that's why people are willing to try them. Tyler, If it's "entirely possible for a set of pipes to make 10 more HP".....then why don't you buy a set of the snipers? NOTE: The pipes mentioned in Mailman's post above are the exact same set that Gary sent to you for free for you to use for your hybrid. The pipes used in those dyno tests performed so poorly that he refunded Mailman's money. (Yeah, where's the +10 performance?) I can't comment on the reason people aren't into trying the Takai coils.....I run a Nology on my 10 mill and a stocker on our 370. Hey specialbled07!....isn't that same builder the guy you said wasn't getting your motor to you on time? Isn't he the guy who said openly that they haven't tested them yet? If he doesn't have time to get your motor to you on time....when did he find the time to do any testing? I could understand it if he told you your 3's would be fine.....but I don't think he should tell you that you won't see a difference if he hasn't tested them himself. NOTE TO EVERYONE: I have been talking to specailblend07 behind the scenes like I do with many of you and WEEKS ago had offered to dyno test his new motor with a set of Snipers vs a set of Shearers and even offered to let him try the 4's at the same time. This dyno testing was offered for free because I was willing to put in the time to have some more independent dyno testing of the Snipers for you all to see. So.....I guess we won't need to bother with trying the 4's on your new set-up right?