WINDYCITYJOHN400

Take her new iPad and replace it with an Etch-a-Sketch.

If it's leaded race gas, you won't want to put that in your GF's car. It can clog the converter. But more importantly it can very quickly coat the O2 sensor and leave her with a car that runs like shit. (Maybe save it for an ex-GF. LOL) Race gas also doesn't like florescent lights. I've got a boatload of florescent lights in my shop and the UV from them will break down gas in clear and plastic containers. It took me a while to figure out why I was having issues with fuel going bad, but if you store your fuel in a sealed metal container...it will last till next season. Any jug where the fine mineral spirits can evaporate out will leave you with fuel with a lower potency. (fuel can outgas thru plastic jugs.) Topping off tanks in a snowmobile cuts down on the space available for the fuel to outgas and loose it's potent vapors. But after 6 months in a tank (especially with a vented cap)....the fuel won't be all jelled up and neither will your carbs. But the fuel will be down on potency. I drain all float bowls and tanks in the off season and store the fuel in spare metal 5 gallon VP cans.

We've got one with that color combo in our group. It's the ugly duckling.

Um.......No. It's a filter system. Not a Vagina. It can get splashed with a little water and even get dirt on it and it will be fine. I rode "The Badlands" twice recently after a good 2"to 3" rainfall. The place was a soup bowl. I even ran the entire length of the river from the falls, thru the tubes and down to the far boundary. (Water was deep enough that my nerfs were under water.) Even with the bike paddle wheeling in the river, I was able to ride all day and my motor never died once from wet or dirty filters. (And the motor didn't eat junk either, cause I put a small smear of white lithium grease on my intake boots to track if anything gets past the filters.) Now I'll agree that if your making high speed passes thru puddles, you risk getting the filters wet......but by the time you finish the "Dude, did you see that" story....they will be dry enough to fire the bike back up and ride again. [Mikuni flat slide 28's with pod filters and outerwear's.]

Your going to need to contact a site builder and get some custom cut domes for that motor. The domes that come with that motor kit are all wrong.

LOL. Trinity FTW! YEAH when it comes to experience with blown O-rings.....Trinity is #1.

LOL You already PM ed me remember. I invited you out to dyno but it was a little bit far. In the long run it will end up saving you parts, money and frustration. Plus you will make great power when we're done. ILLINOIS POWERSPORTS

Sounds like you need to come put it on the dyno and get that detonation dialed out of it.

True. Paulie if your running against ANY 4-stroke that doesn't have a turbo or nitros. Then we really aren't even interested. A mild bolt on modded Banshee will walk on them all. Banshee owners are like owners of old Hemi cars......we never complain about a lack of power....only lack of traction. If your running a Vito's 10 mill on a stock length swingarm, with a stock head and reeds and carbs.....you have one mismatched mess. So I'll stick with the 60 HP prediction till you post some numbers. Cause dome shape, compression, pipe style and airflow thru carbs matters.

I had a guy who INSISTED that his banshee was a 700. "Look dude, it says right on the machine....350 twin. 350+350 is a 700." Man did he feel 3ft tall when 4 of us took turns explaning it to him.

Well everyone tried. He might post again later.....but it's too early in the day. It's a school day. So I'm sure he's sitting in the front row of the little yellow bus with his spiderman lunch box filled with a jelly sandwich that mom cut the crust off, telling the bus driver all about how dumb we are and how he asked us a question.....then told us the correct answer. We'll hear from him later once he get's home and finishes writing out his spelling words. (mom thinks he's on the computer playing games. She dosen't know he's on here practicing pottymouth language.) I give him credit. He may be dumb.....but he's not going to let that hold him back. LOL

It may be an old comment from 2009....But for once, someone's data mining brought me a good laugh. The more things change, the more they stay the same.

I thought you were all getting trolled........(by Banshee4mill) But I looked at his past content and sadly I think he's sincere about his thought process. (Severely flawed as it may be.) So since he's not willing to listen to a perfectly sane explanation of how crank stroke effects cylinder volume......What next? I think he's picturing that the crank goes 2 mill lower....but he's missing that you usually have to run a spacer plate to raise the cylinder so that it won't hit the head. Because (and here is the important part) the piston will also rise 2 mm higher than before. That equals 4 more mm of cylinder volume. Changing pin height or piston height can correct alignment of piston in the bore. But it still goes DOWN 2 more mm than stock and UP 2 more mm than stock. 2+2=4 So since your getting a total of 4 more mm of piston travel......we call it a +4 crank. Now if this concept isn't sinking in yet......save yourself some money and sign yourself up for a season pass for the little yellow bus. Paying full price to ride every day for the entire year is going to cost you a fortune!

With intake timings of 132....I agree, no bottom end. That's why we put a 7 mill crank in, to correct the timings and get some bottom end back. Your old set-up must not have been much. Your current set-up isn't much either. Your easily entertained with maybe 60HP of all top end. Sorry. But if your happy with it....that's all that matters. Cause we could talk forever about what people "Could" have.

You all missed a PERFECT day.

Well the cylinders are coming with heli-coils holding the head studs in as shipped. You don't have to do it....they did already. We had 3 heli-coils pull out and had to use timeserts to get the studs to hold. Fully ported 4 mill cylinders with 7mill crank, 34PJ's and small bore shearers 89.8 HP on pump gas.

Loaded and ready for tomorrow.

Why not? Watching too much internet porn? LOL

Oh sure...now you tell us. LOL I didn't see your "all in" for Saturday till now. Too late. We're locked in for Sunday.

OK, had to switch the date to Sunday the 21st......maybe that will make it easier for more to make it. They are calling for 70 degrees on Sunday.

Haven't dealt with the 10 mill cylinders, but the 4 mills have pretty high intake porting. (I think they were 198-132) We ended up running a 7 mill crank to get the timings back in line. (I think there is a bike in the for sale post listed as a 103HP bike that has the same combo of 4 mill cylinders and 7 mill crank.) NOTE: the cylinder material is a little weak at this point, so they have to heli-coil the head stud holes before they leave Vito's. We had 3 head studs pull out heli-coil and all just torquing the head down for the first time. With a TON of porting and adding worm holes we got the ones we were reworking up to 89.8HP on pump gas, but the torque was still a little low. So.......I'm still a CP cylinder fan as far as that goes.

Yeah yeah....and never buy her a watch... Cause there is a clock on the damn stove.

Illinois powersports1-630-365-6722 I sent you a PM

Great point Dave. I guess I agree with your point. Somebody might as well do it so we can say it's been tried. Buy I would think that with him having a dyno, the kind of pipes he's looking to try should be rolling in and out the door weekly. I don't see R2's ot Paul Turners often. But most of the others show up pretty often.

Your posting because you think a 72 bore 7 mill stroke motor might like a pipe that is smaller than a Shearer SB ? You may have a dyno....but it sounds like you need a better understanding of the roll thst HEAT plays in the equation. Running a motor that big with a smaller stinger (like most average pipes have that's only 7/8" will look great for a few short dyno runs....but by lap 2 will be heat soaking that motor and it won't be happy. You can't find a pipe that will help you make power when your off the pipe....That's why it's called "off the pipe" because your left with just what the motor can make with it's own size. Rethink your statements about how power is used. If you insist that grabing brakes as you work thru the pack kills the rpm.....then how many rpms does it drop? The gearing is what pulled the motor rpms back down. If you gear the snot out of the bike, it will stay in the powerband that the pipe can support. You can still grab brakes and slow down......you just won't fall off the pipe. I've worked with a few dirt oval track car guys and bottom end isn't what they crave. Top end is where it's at in that game. We can agree or disagree about the use or need for power at different rpms. But heat build up from undersized pipes will ultimately settle the dispute no matter what we think.