Zew

I for sure have late versions of hubs and spindles... I just can't figure out why it seems like they're not going on all the way. I see a gap between the oil rear oil seal and where it should come in contact with the spindle. The spindle shaft doesn't look bent. I tried swapping either hub with either spindle and it seems to have the same issue.

I see what you are talking about on the front part by where the castle nut should be... Yes, there is a spacer and washer I am missing but If you look at the area between the back of the spindle and the hub assembly, it doesn't look like they're down all the way. the rubber oil seal isn't seated against the spindle. It looks like it should go down a bit more... maybe a 1/2"?

Thank you for the pictures! I definitely have late model hubs. The spindles are late as well because the calipers i have for them are the late style, according to the pictures i've seen. I can't seem to get them to go down all the way though... The spindle shaft doesn't look bent. Also, is there some kind of spacer that should go on the front side behind the castle nut and washer?

I bought a set of hubs from one guy off CL and a set of spindles off another guy. I tried mating the two together, and it seems like the hubs won't go on all the way. I have a feeling the hubs are 87-90 and the spindles are 91-06. Does anyone know if the two are interchangeable and will bolt up properly?

Actually... I've seen that thread, and although it lists how to build one, it doesn't give information step by step how to perform a leakdown test. I know on single cylinder engines you put the piston at BDC, but on a banshee that's impossible for both sides. Does it not matter where the pistons are located while doing a leakdown test?

thank you

Can anyone chime in and give me the step by step on doing a leak down test on a banshee? Also... I need to build a tester. Anyone have a nice one they can link me to or post pics of?

Anyone know where i can find these? I have two banshee's that are missing a few. Thanks, -Paul

What media did you use to sandblast? I have a basket case motor that i'm going to be building soon and it would look really nice all sandblasted!

Might have to have some stock jugs bored. Where's a good spot in chicago to get the work done? Thanks, -Paul

Thank you. I wont have time to look at it tonight, but i'll try on Friday night once i'm out of work. I appreciate all the ideas on what to look at. I'm lucky the guy gave me the proper flywheel puller tool so i can check it.

anyone have a part number on the spark plug caps? any recommendation?

I know how to change the jetting... Just not to keen on how to calculate it. The guy gave me a whole kit of jets for it when I bought it from him. I want to say he's got a set of 310's in it - I could be wrong. The first two times i rode it it was hot as hell out... like 80-95 deg F. The third time i rode it, after the spark plug change it was in the 70's and still ran like crap.

Excellent. I'll try the spark plug caps first. Thank you.

I bought an 01 Banshee off a guy recently. I've had it out a total of 3 times so far. The second time i rode it it started to studder/crackle/pop when it hits the powerband. Not all the time, but most of the time. I tried changing out the spark plugs - no help. The guy I bought it from said there's an adjustable timing plate on it and he's got it set to 4 degrees. He also said the jetting in the carbs is modified. I've got an aftermarket filter and running the air box with no lid. Air box also was drilled by the previous owner and has those filter plugs in the holes. Its running a set of toomy pipes. Anyone know where I should start looking? It ran fine the first time i had it out. Second time I had it out about an hour or two (on and off - not constant riding) it started to pop out the exhaust and crackle in the powerband. Third time i had it out was after I replaced the spark plugs. If i kept it out of the powerband it ran just fine. Thanks, -Paul