bansheesandrider

Oh yeah, what is wrong with the pipe clamps? They look just like the ones I have from Cascade, and mine work flawlessly.

The ALBA bikes were a good deal for what you got, basically for the price of pipes you got pipes, tires and wheels, the K&N Pro Flow setup, and some graphics that I could care less about. They were not ported unless you paid extra for it. And they would ship them to anywhere in the 48 states.

By running the extra plate you are preloading the clutch springs more. It is also reducing the clearance between the plates when you pull the clutch lever, which will cause the bike to lunge forward because they are not releasing cleanly.Also, with the extra plate, is the pressure plate spline properly meshing with the clutch hub splines?

Since I thought the tach was unusable when riding, I figured it was better to go with the Vector and have a more reliable and easier to read setup. I am glad I did as I have had zero problems with the Vector and it does what I really wanted the thing for anyway.

I don't beat on it, an occasional blip of the throttle to clean it out will take it above 6000, and that was all it took to make the Trail Tech reset. The pipes were already warm, the coolant was below 100. Hell, when I am actually moving the coolant is only 170. I always make sure the bike is fully warmed up before I start riding it hard, but as I am jetted borderline rich, I sometimes have to blip the throttle to clean it out. When I put this topend on it, it had 185 pounds of compression, and now 7 years later it still has 175 pounds. As I have not had any problems with seizures, snagged rings or the other things that arise from not properly warming up the engine , I don't think I am beating on it. When I had the bike at Trail Tech, the actual engineer that designed the Vapor was working on it and baffled.

It could also be the coil, I have seen cars that do this and it was the coil. It definitely sounds like an electrical problem.

Beware of the higher wattage stators, most of them are junk, especially Ricky Stator. If you are going DC with HIDs then you may not need more wattage. Most HIDs use less power than stock lights once they have fired off, if you have a battery on the bike, that will get them fired off and then the stock stator will keep them running. You need to PM Snopcynski(or however you spell it, sorry) on here. He is the lighting,and DC conversion guru and will tell you the best way of doing it, what lights to use, etc.

I haveheard of alot of people stripping the threads in the cast plates, which I beleive the Ricky Stator piece is. The Chariot plate is a billet piece and I have not heard of any problems with it. When it comes to parts you usually get what you pay for, unless it is a manufacturer that has gotten real proud of their stuff, like Pro Design has. Advancing your timing will boost your bottom end and mid range, it can hurt your top end power if you go to far. You also need to be aware thar it can cause preignition and higher octane fuel may be required.

If you are going to work on your stuff all the time, then the answer is yes. If it is a once in a while deal, you can just buy some solvent and put it in a pan with a brush, it is far safer than gasoline. Making do or doing things half ass is what always leads to problems. Also, you should never wash parts in a garage with a gas furnace or water heater- they have a pilot light that can ignite vapors. i have been a professional mechanic for 25 years and as part of my monthly and annual safety training, I have seen hundreds of videos and pictures of fires that were caused by the improper use of gas, solvent,paint thinner, etc. But then again, it is your bike, garage or shop, and family that you are putting in jeopardy so do whatever you want.

Have you ever seen a woodruff key that is half sheared off? it looks just like a brand new degree key. I have seen lots of half sheared keys in industrial applications and I would not use a degree key. If you can't afford a plate you can slot the holes in the stock plate and advnce it. I recomend the Chariot piece, it is the best bang for the buck.

If it has a lockup clutch and does not have an override tranny, it is going to shift hard.

With mine the problem was that when the coolant temperature was below 100 degrees and I revved the bike above 6000 it would do a complete reset, if I waited till it was above 100 degrees it was fine. I was running BR8ES plugs in it as I always do. I tried the 9V battery trick, it made no difference. I took the bike to the TrailTech headquarters and they looked at it, tried thebattery shimming trick, replaced the coolant sesor and the replaced the computer itself. By this time, the bike had come up to 100 degrees and it was workoing OK. I came back home and tried it riding in one of my fields a couple of days later, and it was still doing it. I called Trail Tech and they said to remove the tach pickup and try it- it would still do it with the tach pickup removed. I took the bike back to them again and they trid every way they knew of to hook up the tach, replaced all the sensors and wiring and even the computer again, but no matter what they did it would still reset. While I was riding it at home I came to the conclusion that the tach was too hard to read when I was tearing it up, and I was still shifting it by the way it sounded and felt. I figured that if I did not know when to shift after 15+ years on it, that I should not be on it. So, I ended up telling Trail Tech that I could live without the tach if it would work properly. We then tried the Vector unit and it worked flawlessly. The Vector is the same thing without the tachometer in it, it has every other function except the one related to the tach and I mainly wanted the temp, speedometer and hourmeter functions.In the end, they let me keep the Vapor setup that I bought, and they gave me a complete Vector setup plus one of their terminal and crimper kits. The Vector has been on there for 2 years now and has never reset once. Some day, when I have the time I was going to try the Vapor on my wife's Banshee and see what happens. I would recomend that if you don't need the tachometer to go with the Vector and save yourself some headache.

Those should have been the new style shiny Maier plastic and maybe when they switched to the shiny stuff, they started drilling the holes themselves. But I had 2 sets of the old rough surface ones and if the hole were drilled in those, they were drilled in the wrong place as I know the holes were egged shaped by the time I got them mounted up. I don't remember if I missed when I drilled the holes or if the holes were in the wrong place and I had to egg them out to get the bolts in, but I know my holes were egg shaped by the time I got them mounted up.

You are right about Oregon setups but that is wgere I am from, I ride the Oregon Dunes almost exclusively. I have a fairly built 350, an old school build from the long gone JD Racing. I run a 4 inch swingarm and I can climb pretty much anything I want with it. I had a buddy with a 6 inch and a little hotter build than I have and when I rode it, I hated it because the front would not come up like mine when I needed it to. So I stick with my comment of there is no need for a 6 inch arm with a stock motor. Hell, back in the early to mid 90s, no one would tell you what they were really running, just because of their ego- if they lost, then you only beat a stock bike, not some money pit. If they won then they beat you with a stock bike. Also, some people say it is a stock bike if it is a 350 no matter how much they have done to it.

All Trail Tech computers install the same- hook up to power and ground, use the yellow wire coming INTO the headlight switch and the black chassis ground wire on the bike. Install the temp sensor in a coolant hose, I recomend the hose coming from the head to the radiator so you can see how hot your engine is and not how cool the water going into the water pump is. Mount the speedo sensor- either drill out the brake shield and mount it in there or use their bracket if you don;t have shields. You also have to replace one of the rotor bolts with their magnet bolt. Then the tricky part is the tach pickup if you have the Vapor- I tried every method in the instructions and even had the bike at Trail Tech twice for help and we could not get it to work properly even with BR8ES spark plugs. They ended up giving me a complete Vector setup that does not have a tach in it because I decided I did not need the tach and it was to hard to read when I was riding. It is a pretty simple install, but you will be into several different parts of the bike. I just compared my speedo to my GPS and adjusted the correction factor in the computer until it matched the GPS, I started with the standard setting recomended in the book and it was close.

Let's see you say that when you are standing in a pile of ash and rubble where your garage or shop and bike used to be.

Looking at how far the screw is in the carb is misleading, because once it is inside the carb, it still has to screw into the angled slot in the slide to actually move the slide up to change the idle speed.

Even if it is all stock, you still have port timing. When you port a cylinder you change the port timing and size or shape fom what it was stock. Leave out the spacer and use Wiseco 795 pistons. If you have to buy pistons, I would strongly recomend boring it so your new piston has a nice straight and round bore to run in and your new rings have a fresh surface to seat to.

My bike has not had a coolant bottle for 18 of the 20 years I have owned it, no problems. Just take the hose that runs to the bottle and route it down the frame tube behind the radiator, cut it off right below the bottom of the frame and zip tie it to the frame.

Yes, grind some more off, it usually takes another 1/8 inch or so after you grind off the angle. When I set mine up I back out the idle screws so the slides bottom out in the carb. I then turn the screws until they just start to raise the slides, I then go another half turn. At this point start the bike and adjust the screw on each carb equally to obtain the idle speed you desire. With the screws set equally lock the nuts down. Then with the bike shut off and the air cleaner removed, side a finger into the back of each carb, and open the throttle slowly. Both slide should start to move at the same time, if they don't you need to unscrew the adjuster on the top of the carb that is behind until they are opening at the same time. When they are properly adjusted, you will only hear one click when they snap closed, and there will be a little bit of free play in the throttle cable.

The purpose is to get a bigger carb for more flow without having the expense of aftermarket carbs. The other advantage is that depending on where you ride you can still get parts for them at the dealership or other ATV shops. In the Oregon Dunes, there are several places that have parts for stock carbs, but unless you just need jets or a complete carb maybe, there are few places that have parts for Keihen carbs. You can get Keihen parts at some Honda shops as Honda liked to use them OEM.

You should never wash parts with gas, it is a fire hazard. The correct way ios to use solvent in a parts washer, blow it out with compressed air and after it is clean, oil the bearings with the same oil you use for premix.

But $500 is a smoking deal for any running Banshee.

It is nothing more than a sticker kit on a regular Banshee. Alba would add their custom graphics and seat cover, your choice of pipes and sand tires and then ship it from their dealership to anywhere in the USA for less than a grand over a stock bike. The "factory" that it came out of was the Alba dealership in Poway, CA, that was the closest dealer to Glamis. The only true "special" edition Banshees are the Special, Limited, or 50th Anniversary Editions that Yamaha made from about 2002 on. There may have been other ones that were named after riders or builders, but they are all regular Banshees wth aftermarket mods, suspension, graphics, and tires and wheels.

How can you tell if the motor was never touched. My motor looks stock except for the pipes and the Toomey 2 into 1 air filter, but it is not. And it is hard to tell if I have ever been into it because I use all Yamaha gaskets and seals. I would bet money he was jerking your chain saying it was stock, when in reality it may have been very built.There is absolutely no need for a 6 inch arm on a bike that has nothing more than pipes and filters.