bansheesandrider

If it is a stock head that has NEVER been miled or cut and chambered it can probably be saved. You will need to have a builder that knows what he is doing "cut and chamber" it and you will be good. If it has ever been milled or "cut and chambered" before, then you have a nice paperweight or ashtray.

If you use a reputable builder that knows what he is doing, he will know how much you can take off and how much pressure you will gain. A coolhead is going to cost $300 by the time you get it on the bike, you can get the stock head cut for $75 or less and a new gasket and you are into it for less than $100. I have never had a problem with overheating with a stock head, my bike runs at about 185 degrees on a warm day. But if for some reason I had to buy a head I would probably go with the Noss head. Increasing your compression will make a big difference in power, especially at the low end.

The stock pilot jet, go to a 27.5. I also second the Klotz at 40:1.

X2, this is the best casesaver on the market.

You can go more than .025 inches. My current head is cut .040 inches and rechambered. I have seen heads that were cut .060 inches and worked fine, but I would not go any more than that. My bike had 185 psi when topend was fresh and currently has 175 psi and I run 2 gals of 110 octane race fuel mixed with 3 gals of 93 octane pump gas with no problems. My point is every bike is different and there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to timing, jetting, compression, and octane.

I have heard ALOT of people complain that their new Motoin Pro cable is too long. There is not that much difference in price between a stocker and a Motion Pro and from the amount of headaches I have heard about I would strongly recomend spending a couple bucks more for a Yamaha cable.

Didn't your T6s come with a jet kit? I thought all Toomey pipes came with a Toomey jet kit. Did whoever you got the pipes from not supply it?

PJ1 make a case and cylinder paint, it is available a larger MC shops.

If you CALL Cascade, they will sell just the stingers and silencers.They just don't put them on the website. They also have stingers for several other brands of pipes.I have been running them on me bike since 1994 on my bike. I ride the Oregon Dunes and have never been stopped or sound checked, except the first voluntary check right after I put them on and it was 89db. But, they do not have a USFS approved spark arrestor, which they don't enforce in the dunes, but if you go in the woods, especially in the summer, they will.

Motion Pro made that tool long before Tusk ever did, I would also guess that the Tusk tool is made by Motion Pro for Tusk. Motion Pro has a vast amount of tools for working on bikes.

As far as I know, all 660 shocks are the same and they will probably fit on a Banshee. I don't know that it is anybetter than a stock shock. BUT I do know that the Raptor swingarm WILL NOT FIT A BANSHEE.

A Raptor swingarm WILL NOT fit on a Banshee, they are totally different!

All Banshees were 347cc stock, any bore or stroke mods will increase this.

There is a year decoder on this site , it is in the technical documents section. I recomend reading all the tech. documents to gain some background on the Banshee, and also get a good service manual. As for mods, the first thing you will want is a set of good pipes,with a good high flowing air filter and proper jetting.From there I would bump the timing and compression and after that you will want to co to better reeds. Then if you still want more power(who doesn't/)you will need to look into porting and other internal mods. There are also some other things you should do in terms of reliability, easier to ride, ease of maintence, etc. Get rid of the TORS system and the park brake rev limiter, a shift star mod, a shift shaft mod, check your clutch basket cushions, check your kick idler gear bushings, true and weld your crank, billet water pump impeller, etc. Some research before you tear into it will save you some time and money by doing your repairs and mods in a logical order based on what you have to fix, you can do mods that affect the area of the bike you are repairing. The performance mods should be done in the order I listed. the reliability mods should have the crank and kick idler gear done first as they can cause a lot of damage if they fail.Also a good filter setup is really important because the stock setup is difficult to get the filter to seal properly.

A HeliCoil or some other type of thread insert is your only fix. Any other way of fixing it is half assed and will cause more problems down the road.

The problem with Bike Bandit is their website uses proprietary part numbers, not Yamaha part numbers. So you, can't use the numbers anywhere else. The websites for CheapCycleParts.com, or a couple of others will give you Yamaha part numbers. Cheap Cycle Parts, and RideNow Powersports, and Apache Motorcycles in Pheonix all have better prices than bike Bike Bandit usually.

Stator are not cheap. But I would not by an aftermarket one, especially one from Ricky Stator, RM Stator, or anything else made in China, Tiawan, etc.. A used genuine Yamaha stator is better than a brand new aftermarket stator.

You are right, it won't put out an unlimited amount. But it will produce a lot more voltage than the light bulbs will handle if the regulator is not functioning properly. My point was that there is nothing in the stator assembly to limit the output voltage, thus the output is "unlimited", the only maximum is how much voltage that the windings can produce at a given RPM. The stator is capable of producing far more than 12V at high RPM because it needs ro be able to produce at least 12V at lower RPM. The bike voltage is limited(or regulated) by the voltage regulator which is seperate from the stator, unlike your car in which the stator and regulator are all enclosed in 1 assembly called an alternator.

If you have 26V, it sounds like your regulator is bad and therefore the bulbs are blown. The stator will put out an unlimited amount of voltage, it is the regulator's job to shunt the excess voltage and make sure that the lights don't see more than 12V nominal voltage. Since your voltage is jumping all over the place, it sounds like maybe the voltage regulator is only working part time, I would make sure that the voltage regulator has a good ground. If the ground is good, try a different regulator. You could borrow one from a friend as there is only one part number for all years of US Banshees. Install it and see if it runs at a steady voltage that is less than16V. If it does that is the problem and you need a new reg. and new light bulbs. Get a genuine Yamaha regulator and I would try the new bulbs that Rocky Mt. ATV has, they put out a much brighter(whiter) light and they are only $10 apiece instead of the more expensive Yamaha bulbs.

01s DO NOT HAVE A BRAKELIGHT, they have a taillight only.It should be a blue wire for the taillight. Check the voltage ot the voltage regulator- if it is more than 16V then your regulator has gone shithouse and the lightbulbs are burnt out. If the voltage is below 16V, then check the yellow suuply wire to the switch, if it is good then check the yellow and the green wires coning out of the switch. As mentioned, there are seperate ignition and lighting circuits in the stator, so your lighting circuit could be bad and the bike will still run.

X2, as a bore only gets bigger, I would set it to the Wiseco spec and then make sure you break it in properly so that it does not sieze right away. Also let it warm up before you hammer on it. Make sure that your machinist is aware of the proper way to measure a Wiseco piston as they are egg shaped when they are cold and become round when they warm up, therefore the machinist has to measure them in the proper location to establish the proper dimension and therefore the correct clearance.

Haulers hookup and slide better. Edges corner better, by this I mean if your bars are turned and the weight is properly positioned on the pegs the Edges will turn aound the corner without sliding.I have had both on my bike and this is what I expierenced.

My expierence with Cascade has been that they make excellent bling and seat covers, but there are FAR better places to go for performance mods other than bolt ons. I cannot verify this, but I was told that Cacade sends their crank work to Twister which is less than 5 miles down they road from them. I know that they want to build it their way and not work around the parts you already have. I also know that they are not nearly as friendly and willing to help you out since Kevin and Becky sold it to Kevin's brother. Also they have raised their prices. When the CSFX silencers came out, I wanted a set to quiet my bike down, but I was running an oddball set of pipes. Kevin custom bent me a set of stingers for the standard cost of an off the shelf set. When I went in a year ago to get a set of them for the T3s on the wife's bike, which they used to have in stock, hanging on the wall. They wanted to charge me full bore for a set of silencers and stingers, PLUS at least 3 hours shop labor at $75/hour to custom bend me a set of stingers that used to be an off the shelf part. I understand that silencers for T3s are not a hot selling item, but to charge me full bore for a standard set of silencers and stingers PLUS $225 for custom stigers is rediculous, it double the price. All ths plus they have been kind of snotty to me on the phone when I called. I have almost every billet piece they sell for a Banshee on my bike,plus I have bought at least 5 seatcovers from them.

Yes it is their fault, if their vendor can't supply a decent chrome job then they need to find a different chromer. This guy has been waiting for a set of pipes for 2 months now and that is rediculous. I would look into getting my money back through your credit card or PayPal if either one applys.

WTF is a Raptor guy doing on a Banshee website? He should be at BlueTraxx.com. If he doesn't like Banshees, then he should go bash them on a Raptor website and stay out of here. I can tell you this, I spent a hell of alot longer working on a freinds Raptor carb problem than I have ever spent working on a Banshee carb problem, probably by at least a 5 to 1 margin, and that was with another freind who has a lot of Raptor expierence helping me.