bansheesandrider

If it is lean, it is running hot in the cylinder. If it is hot in the cylinder, it will detonate.

FYI, Yamaha calls that part a switch, even though it is just a cover. This come from the fact that the motor was used on the RZ350 street bike also. On the street bike it was a switch for the Neutral Indicator Light. I'm not positive but I believe it is shown on the case page.

Are you testing the coil by the book or the proper way? You should test the secondary between the 2 plug wires.

If they are used, which they are, they are worth $250-300 max.

Those are similar. There should be some that are 25-30 watts that will work with a stock stator.

They are all over Ebay for 25-28 bucks. They look very similar to what you put up. The stock style Cascade light covers should go on them.

There are ones like those on Ebay for less than 30 a pair. A guy at dunefest last summer was running them, he said you had to take a cutoff wheel to the pivot area and narrow it up a bit. Then they go right in the factory mount. He said that they threw plenty of light and for the price just keep a couple of spares for when they go out on an AC powered setup.

Do it yourself. Google "DC conversion BansheeHQ" and do the research.

I would DEFINETLY get something with a TITLE. AND a visible VIN. People are always getting checked and if you can't prove it is legally yours, it is going bye bye. And you have lost all your money you spent on it. So to answer your thread question, NO.

So these stators have been out for awhile now, what is the long term opinion of them? I am thinking of getting the high power DC conversion of it with the rectifier package. The price is very good as long as it isn't a POS.

I have had a genuine Cascade(it's NOT made by ModQuad, theirs is a knockoff of Cascade's) on my bike for 20 years. When I install it, I put blue locktite on the axle and pinch bolt threads and tighten it up. It has never given me a bit of problems or backed off. Cascade originated most of the billet dress up items and ModQuad came along afterwards and copied them making cosmetic changes.

If you think Sandlake is better than the southern dunes, you better sell your Banshee and get a Yamaha Breeze. Even my daughter said the southern dunes were better when she was 10 years old. As was said, Sandlake is fine for a test and tune day, but it is over rode and over ran with unsupervised kids. If you want a good ride, HEAD SOUTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What is the current status of this? Has anybody had any problems with them, specifically the DC stator? Is the DC kit available?

Im carrying a Taurus PT145 Millenium Pro. The most important thing is to get something that works for you and you like.

The spacer between the bearings is binding on the spindle. Pull the bearing out of the hub and clean the corrosion off the inside of the spacer and also the spindle. Give it a coat of anti-sieze and put it back together, you may need to tap the hub on with a hammer, preferably a plastic dead blow. Put the outer spacer and nut on, torque to spec, spin the hub and retorque and you should be good AFTER you put the cotter or keeper pin in.

Ther is ONE axle for ALL years of Banshee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes but the 97-06 style has 1 more wire than the 2 earlier styles- the green/yellow for the Park Brake Rev Limiter. Granted, that wire should not be hooked up or grounded but it is there and needs to be properly dealt with.

but it's simple there is only 2 styles WRONG, there are 3 styles-87-94,95-96,97-on!!!!!!!!!

X2, I have run out if gas multiple time at high RPM in 4th, 5th or 6th. Never damaged my motor. But then again, I have mine jetted not lean, just slightly rich, to prevent meltdowns on long wide open runs.

First thing I tried and the first thing TrailTech checked. Like I said, I had the engineer that designed the damn thing working on it and he was stumped, and it wasn't just a bad unit because 3 different ones did it. I tried a 9 volt battery, hooking it to the Banshee lighting circuit,switched to BR8ES plugs, tried ALL the ways the instructions said to hookup the tach signal wire,tried a new temp sensor, the guys at Trail Tech got tired of talking to me on the phone so I went up there twice and had the guy that designed/engineered it and another guy work on it both times and NOBODY could get it to work correctly. I did not mean to offend you with my first comment, I was just saying that if you spent a little time with it you should be able to get it accurate. As for tire expansion it only seems to be a problem when you are on the pipe in 6th. Mine has always been accurate at the speeds I ride at, I guess I am getting old and dont haul ass as much anymore. When I went to Glamis last year my GPS and my Trail Tech were in agreement as to how far I had travelled.

Not only did I spend a lot of time trying to get the tach to work, the engineer who designed the Vapor could not get it to work on my Banshee.I took the bike and Vapor to their headquaters in Battlground Washington twice and had their engineering/service dept. work on it. If you blipped the throttle while the coolant temp was below 100 degrees the damn thing would do a complete reset and I would lose all my saved info(hourmeter, etc.). They gave me all the sensors and wiring harnesses and even a completely new head unit on the first trip. They tried every trick and repair procedure that they had encountered previously and sent me on my way. The next time I tried it with the bike cool it still did it so I went back again. This time they had no clue what to do with it. When I mentioned that I didn't really need the tach, they offered to give me a Vector in addition to keeping the Vapor, plus they gave me a bunch of other swag. The Vector has worked flawlessly from day one. As for the speedo, I had to change the tire size factor a couple of times to get it right, but once I found the correct factor it has been dead on, verified by both radar and GPS.

MPH wasn't very accurate, though... Probably 4-6mph off. Then you did not spend enough time getting the settings dialed in. My Vector is dead on. I had problems with the tach in the Vapor that even Trail Tech could not make it work. The Banshee ignition is too dirty and that is why I ended up with a Vector. You don't need a tach on a Banshee- you are supposed to shift when it quits pulling.

A used OEM is better than a new one from RM Stator or Ricky Stator.

Another know it all talking out of his ass. He neeeds to just GTFO!!!

I am thinking the problem is the transmission and not the clutch since it goes away when you pull the clutch. That is when things stop turning in the trans. You can pull the clutch cover and look things over since it has to come off anyway to split the cases, but I bet the problem is a bearing or gear on the tranny shafts.