bansheesandrider

I did not know Yoshimura made pipes for Banshees, nor did I know that Bridgestone made paddles for ATVs. If your stock Banshee got a noise ticket, then your silencers must be junk.

Been running the Toomey ones in my 89 for almost 20 years. I grease them regularly and they are still tight. Several other places have bronze bushings for less money than the Toomey ones, I prefer the bronze over the Delrin Plastic that some a arms are usung.

Did you adjust the eccentric for the shift shaft when you installed it? It HAS to be done everytime the shift shaft is removed. There are a total of 3 forks in there- 2 are the same and 1 is different. All of this is covered in the service manual, you do have a service manual dont you? Don't ask how to do this, get a manual.

Last I heard Chozen Performance went out of business. I don't knowhere you can find any info on them. You can pull it off and see if the domes and o-rings are the same as Noss, Pro Design, Chariot, or some of the other ones. By the way, I would stay away from the Pro Design heads as you have to install longer studs in your cylinders to install it.

If this is the bike I think it is, then I was helping out at JD Racing when it was built back in about 1992 or 1993. It was originally built as a wife's bike and was running full fenders and Paul Turner pipes, that is why none of the tabs were removed from the frame. I don't think it was originally built with a JD/SS 510 though. But, I do remember being there when the frame came back from being gold plated and thinking that somebody had too much money. The bike was originally built to be a bling bike for a smoking hot girl.

The loop of the hose does not matter, you need to get the outlet from the caliper as the highest point so the air bubble will want to flow to the outlet and not be trapped in some corner of the caliper causing sponginess.

1 timing plate for all years, same with the flywheel.

Rubber is denser than aluminum so a 22 inch tire and 8 inch wheel will weigh more than a 22 inch tire and 10 inch wheel. However everything that was said about sidewall flex and top end growth are true.

If the above does not work, try taking the caliper off the rotor and position it higher than the master cylinder with the bleeder screw at the highest point. Then bleed as above, air bubbles like to rise to the highest point.

If the lighting coil is the only thing out of spec, you should still have spark. The lighting coil only affects your headlights and voltage regulator. IF everything else is in spec and there are no bare wires shorted out or bad switches(key, kill, TORS, Park brake) then according to the service manual you have a bad CDI box. Find a buddy to borrow a box from and see if it makes a difference.

Who is going to Sandfest 6/29-7/3/2011 at Coos Bay? Where are you riding out of? I will be riding out of either Horsfall Day Use or Hauser Day Use from the 30 to the 3.

Is your machinist boring your cylinders to the proper size? With a properly sized cylinder that has the correct piston clearance, I have ALWAYS had to file my Wiseco rings to get an endgap of .012 inches.

They are not Wisecos and Wisecos are a good thing.

That guy that is making them at his house is a member and sponsor on here- his business name is JDS Customs and his screen name is 87sheerips, I believe. He makes rotors and all kinds of grills and other parts for Banshees and other ATVs.

Do you still have the park brake rev limiter? There is a green/yellow wire coming out of the CDI box, cut it off on the bike side of the plug as close as possible to the plug. DO NOT CUT it on the CDI side of the plug, cutting it as close to the bike side of the plug will keep it from shorting to ground. If that wire connects to ground it will engage the park brake rev limiter. That wire can see ground by either being shorted in the harness, a stuck switch or a shorted switch(water trapped in it), cutting it at the harness solves all these problems and installing a TORS delete does not affect this as it is a seperate system from TORS.

I would Heli-Coil it, there may not be enough meat there to adequately support the next size bigger bolt. If it is helicoiled, it will still use a stock bolt and the same size wrench as the other bolts. It is not hard to do and done right it will be stronger than the original hole because the bolt threads will now be turning in steel instead of aluminum.

Superior Sleeve has been around for a long time but I did not know they were still in business. They had a partnership with the long gone JD Racing to design and build those big dispacement monoblock cylinders and heads. They were supposed to cast and machine them and JD Racing was supposed to do the porting and ALL kits were to be sold through JD Racing. They decided they could improve their end of the deal by selling some kits themselves without JD Racing's knowledge. They got caught when their kits did not run as hard as JD's and customers started calling JD to get the porting corrected and JD wanted to know where they got the engine. It led to a lawsuit that I don't know the outcome, but JD ended up closing the doors for some other reasons and now thanks to your link I know where Superior Sleeve is. When JD was making those engines they were unbeatable, but some of the 535 motors were having a hard time keeping a welded crank together. I believe they eventually started pinning the cranks to keep them together.

If the claw was off to the side of the pins on the shift star, then you need a new shift shaft as the pivot for the claw has gotten worn/loose and needs to be replaced- it will continue to do it until you do. A Banshee tranny needs to be spinning when you shift in order for the dogs on the gears to mesh and engage.

The proper tool is a punch and hammer. I usually work from the back side to take out the outer bearing first and then work from the front to drive out the inner bearing.

By splitting your cases and removing the crank to be sent to a rebuilder, who will rebuild it and true & weld it. It is not a job for a do it yourselfer at home in his garage. You can split the cases yourself.

One goes out each side and sometimes they can be a bitch.

96s do not have the park brake rev limiter, they do have TORS. Is your TORS still hooked up? If it is, unplug the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank. You really need to get a service manual and follow the trouble shooting steps. Did you ohm the stator and what were the readings? Did you check the coil and what were those readings? Also, most service manuals tell you to check the coil secondary by ohming it from the wire to ground, on a Banshee coil this is wrong. You want to check the secondary from 1 wire to the other wire. You also need to look over the wire harness for broken, cut, or rubbed wires. Also, check your key switch and kill switch. Good Luck.

Water can get in there where the wire harness exits the stator housing(cases). Whenever I install a stator, I seal the grommet AND the wire harness with RTV.

So was the replacement set new or had they been used? If they were used, did they get put on facing the same direction as they were removed? If they were used, I wouldn't be concerned, just get a BRAND NEW set and install them correctly. That is the problem with used parts, they are used and are not going to give you the service life that a new part will.

The Toomey 2:1 is 1 air filter into 2 carbs, not 1 carb into 2 cylinders. And the other 2 into 1 he is talking about, I am guessing is the pipe from either Motofast or Dynport.