fastquad02blaster

Get a monoblock cylinder and have the middle machined out and run a giant oval shaped piston. Of course don't use a sleeve in that setup either. It'll be awesome.

With those link pieces up front you should get 1-2 inches lower there. The stock rear setup has no adjustability as far as lowering. You can adjust your preload and sink it down that way but then it won't handle the same.

I've seen some lowering kits for the fron that is just a little link that just moves your bottom shock mount on the a arm out towards the ball joint thus lowering your quad. For the back they have the adjustable block type and the adjustable screw type. I made my own adjustable screw type.

I think with all basic bolt ons you should be pretty competitive. I was thinking about the same thing. I did the yfz front suspension swap. That lowered the bike quite a bit and widened it too. I'm sortof thinking that they couldn't say crap if you wanted to run in the knobby class. It's stock suspension for a quad just not a shee.

After they get soft, do they pump back up or do you have to rebleed them? Just wondering. I think its in your MC too.

Got my t-5s on ebay for pretty good price. They were close to new and weren't even discolored at the jug end. I paid $400. They even have the o ring connector instead of the clamp on one. It dresses it up a little bit. Just do some looking. I really liked my fatty on my blaster. It had some good low end grunt for a 2 stroke. Might've been the nature of the motor though.

Really bad pic man. I can't see anything on it. It's kindof blurry.

Sounds like it.

How often do you have to change your tranny fluid with that syn? I'm running 10w30 with some type f mixed in with it right now. It seems ok but when it gets hot I still have probs finding N.

Thanks for the link. It looks like they have some quality stuff. I will look at it better when I get ready for lights on mine.

Those look good. They look like they flood out more than the blue ones. What kind are they?

You'll have church pistons in her before long man. HOLY.

My linkThis is for the dc conversion on a shee.

I just recently helped out a friend install some trail tech hids on his yfz and we put on some LED accents too. What do you guys think.

You might actually lose some power. It will ignite slower than 91 octane. Probably not enough to notice though.

The ones on my bike are just solid and I haven't noticed a problem with them thus far. They've been on for 3 or 4 years now.

That's what I was thinking too.

You just want to go with what you need to on a rebuild. That way you have some cylinder wall left for the next rebuild. IMHO. Longer stroke equals more power.

Plus one on the only kicking when necessary. I like the oil idea too.

When I change lights, trail tech makes some four inch hids that will go right in the stock location with little fab work. That's what I'm going with. They are bright as hell and only pull 30 watts apiece. I think that they would be a good looking substitute.

You rode your bike and the fuel level in the carbs got low. This made the floats go down and opened the needle valve to let in more fuel. It stuck down not up. You probably need new needle valves.

Plus one on this. Sounds like carbs are out of sync.

They should work. I'm running the yfz a arm mod on my shee with stock banshee spindles. I think that they are the same height from ball joint to ball joint.

I just started using klotz r50. It doesn't seem to smoke as much with it vs the bel ray i used before. It smells tons better too.

For the ball joints you could get a needle greaser attachment for your grease gun and inject the rubbers full. Tie rod ends you cant really do much to.