tgbanshee

Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing has a good selection and great prices. F.A.S.T. Racing I'm curious, what type of gas were you running?

The piece that attaches to your clutch cable that goes down into the case and rotates when you pull the clutch is called the shift actuator. There could be a problem with that internally, maybe it snapped or the rod wore through it, although both of those are probably unlikely. I found a nice grove worn into mine when I rebuilt my motor: Could also be the piece that the other end of the clutch rod pushes against, it's hard to say. Check the actuator, it should pull right out of the top of the case after you remove the holding bracket. If it is not that, pull the clutch cover and poke around in there. You probably won't have to split the cases unless something really went south.

Wiseco is one of the top names when it comes to internal engine components, you can't go wrong with them. I have a Hot Rods 4mm stroker crank welded by Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing along with the upgraded power side bearing and haven't had any problems at all.

If you're anal about getting all the coolant out, take the water pump plate off (be sure to buy a new gasket first) and remove both coolant drain screws on the side of the cylinders. That should drain 99% of the coolant out. To make things easier in the future so you don't have to keep buying gaskets you can pick this up: That has that little black drain screw on the bottom so you don't have to take the whole plate off and waste a gasket.

4 months ago I spent $80 on a 5gal jug of VP C12 here in New Jersey

Although unlikely, you could have developed an air leak from the hot/cold cycles on the new motor. Did you do a leak down test and a compression test after you got everything back together and after you broke the motor in?

The first time using the puller to take my flywheel off, I swear I almost did the same thing, along with almost popping a blood vessel and breaking my wrench. Finally I said fuck it, picked up the impact gun, and the flywheel popped right off. Def the way to go.

I have this same problem too with a brand new clutch, adjusted correctly at the pointer. I'm using all the heavy duty springs that come with the F.A.S.T. setup (I think they were Magnum light springs). I dunno what clutch setup you have but I wonder if swapping out to 3 stock and 3 heavy duty would fix the problem or maybe trying a different viscosity oil...

If they are willing to match the price and aren't too pushy about you buying from them, then I see nothing wrong with that. Like I said, I know shops make a lot of money off parts it's just when they refuse to work on your machine due to you getting parts elsewhere, that is when I get irritated. I also understand what you mean though when you mentioned ordering wrong/incorrect/defective parts because that is a hassle. I ordered a pair of performance shocks for my Mustang once and one of the bushings was missing. It turned into a huge deal because the car was already up on the lift with the old shocks ripped out and I had to run around to a bunch of automotive stores trying to find this bushing. The mechanic was a little pissed but I don't blame him there.

Sorry but I feel the need to chime in here... I also ABSOLUTELY HATE shops that won't do work unless the parts are purchased through them, and if I ever get that I never go back. I've had that experience more so with a 91 Mustang GT that I own. You ever get the bullshit line, "It's like going to restaurant and bringing your own steak." Sometimes I feel like saying, "If I can buy a prime cut of beef cheap and have a professional cook make the thing perfect then what the hell is wrong with that?" I know the reason they say it is because they make money off parts but regardless it's poor business practice. Luckily I found a machine shop near me, USA Cycle Inc, that works mainly on Harley motors but has an awesome machinist who was very knowledgeable and fairly priced, along with being a damn nice guy to boot. He machined my cylinders to the specs that Wiseco laid out for the .020" over pistons I gave him, wrote down the clearances for reference for me, and even went over a particular cleaning method I should do to ensure any remaining hone grit that might still be in them after I got em back was cleaned out. Turn around time was excellent too, dropped em off on a Wednesday evening, had them back Friday afternoon. I wish places like that were easier to come by. Sorry to hijack the thread but I had to vent and this seemed like the spot after what was said.

Thats what we're here for! Good luck with your rebuild!

You aren't going to blow up your stock shee by using race gas, but you are wasting money. There is no need to pop for race gas when your motor doesn't need it. You don't get extra horsepower from having higher octane, octane is added to fuel to make it resist burning, it does not make it burn hotter. In high compression or advanced timing motors the fuel starts burning before it should (detonation, preignition, etc), which can damage the piston, connecting rods, crank, etc so high octane fuel needs to be used to prevent that. Changing dome size increases compression if you go lower in cc's and decreases compression if you go higher in cc's so that can potentially effect what type of gas you need to run. Elevation will also effect the compression as the higher you go up in elevation, the less atmospheric pressure there is, hence less air will make it into your motor and vice-versa. These things all factor in and you really need use a compression tester and do a compression test if you have a modified motor to find out where you are at and make a decision regarding which fuel to run.

I would say if your bores are clean with no nicks on the walls and the taper, out of round, and diameter are all within spec, then there is no point in getting them bored and wasting a bore size, BUT... The problem here is if you really want to do this right, you need to send the pistons to the machinist with the cylinders so the piston-wall clearance can be checked and the cylinders bored slightly to match the piston if necessary. So you run the risk of buying too small a piston if your bores are slightly too large and out of spec but can potentially save money if the bores are in spec and don't need to be enlarged and only need to be honed. If your measurement of 64.5mm is accurate, that is a .020" overbore piston. The motor will run if the bore is slightly too large and you go with 64.5mm pistons and only get it honed but compression will probably suffer and I for one just don't believe in doing things half ass, but what you choose to do is up to you. If you want to do it right, buy the pistons and send them to the machinist to have him match the bores to them.

Your compression reading seems way low for those size domes and your elevation in cold weather. If you put the head on yourself, I would pop it off and inspect the o-rings to make sure they are in their groves and didn't fall out and get pinched when you assembled it. It also might be time for new pistons and a fresh bore if it's been a long time or if you're still on the stock bore.

Another vote for the F.A.S.T. clutch here.

I have the older version of their propeg nerfs. Instead of having netting behind the pegs, there is a metal sheet with holes in it. The front of my AC foot pegs matches up to where the front of the stock footpegs would be but the AC pegs are twice as wide as the stock ones and much grippier. The pegs on the version of the AC nerfs I have are non-replaceable. The pegs on the AC nerfs that have netting all the way back are replaceable. They are great nerfs, your feet stay put around them nasty corners. Also, at the end of the peg there is a little kickup that keeps your foot from going off the peg in case it does slide over.

:beer:

I checked out the Yamaha Banshee 350 Wikipedia page and was a little disappointed: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_Banshee_350 It was looking pretty plain, no pictures, no links, no mention of the vast aftermarket nor the common upgrades and parts a lot of Banshee owners do. Although it still lacks pictures, the Honda TRX250R page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_TRX250R has a nice table of specs, links, and mentions the aftermarket. Anybody can add content to a Wikipedia page, all you have to do is create an account which is free. Lets try and spice up that page so the general population and non-Banshee owners can get a better idea of why we spend so much time and money on our bikes and our sport.

I'm going to be buying new front and rear brake pads and was just wondering which brands are good and which I should stay away from. What brands do you guys like?

I used a dremel so it was easy regardless but I def agree cutting all the way around is a better idea since you get to see all the way around the insulator like you guys said. Thanks for that tip.

Indeed, I did the plug chop exactly as you described and almost wound out 6th. I do have a 13 tooth front sprocket so I run though the gears pretty fast and can't really pin it in first or second because I'd be laying on my back with the bike on top of me :biggrin: I wonder if that would affect the results since the bike is spending less time in powerband each gear than a bike with a larger front sprocket. Both chops were done in 45 degree F weather.

Here are the left and right chop from my bike, B8ES plugs, currently at 310 mains on stock carbs with pod filters: Here is the chop from a friends bike, he has a Trinity 2 into 1 carb setup with a PWK and BR9ES plugs, not sure what he is jetted at: From the looks of it, it looks like my bike could use one size up on the mains although it runs fine and goes like a bat out of hell. Does the uneven color on the left plug mean anything (detonation or something)? In the second picture, my friend with the 2 into 1 and PWK, it looks like the jetting is spot on although I wonder if the colder plugs have something to do with the color and I'm curious if he should even be running those plugs. Let me know what you guys think.

Did whoever removed the TORS drill and tap the sides for the brass idle screws? Or are you adjusting the idle with the screws on the carb tops?

Fuck stacks and vacuum cleaners. This is the only way to roll if you're hell bent on pissing people off. Your neighbors will love you.

blue loctite FTW. I used that stuff on damn near every screw, nut, and bolt on my bike.