tgbanshee

Sorry but I really need to rant here. I swapped my rear sprocket out for a new one yesterday and almost snapped two of the studs, either they are shitty steel or Clymers has the wrong torque spec. I try to follow torque specs pretty religiously so I picked up a sexy brand new click type Snap-on torque wrench a few months ago, thing even came with a calibration certificate and a nice red case. For those 6 nuts, Clymers calls for 44 ft-lbs. I snugged the first one up and started torquing it down and got to the point where you can feel that the nut is no longer tightening and you are starting to either strip threads or twist the stud. I thought ok, maybe that was just a bum stud. Nope. Did it again on another one. So it seems like those stock studs can only be torqued up to around 30 ft-lbs otherwise something starts twisting or stripping. Really pisses me off because now I have two studs that I have no idea if they are going to break while I'm out riding. Sorry for the rant but if you find out if someone makes harder aftermarket studs, let us know.

I actually just reassembled my new spacer plate +4mm stroker motor, haven't fired it up yet though. I do agree with you on the only way to get correct port timings is having port work done. I originally picked up the 2mm shaved domes from Jeff but after posting here and talking to Jeff again, we decided that it would be better to run the spacer plate and normal domes if I wasn't porting it since the piston will be where it is supposed to be at the top of the stroke. Next year I'll probably get it ported and ditch the spacer plate. Just my experience with this whole stroker motor deal.

You have two options: 1) Run a spacer plate in between your case and the cylinders. This will allow you to run the cool head and domes without any modification to them. This is the cheaper way out but since you now have to run a spacer plate and two gaskets instead of just one gasket, there is more of a chance of something failing and your motor developing an air leak. or the better but more expensive option: 2) Have your cylinders ported for the stroker crank and run domes that have been machined for clearance. You won't have to run the spacer plate then. You don't really want to run the machined domes without the port work because your port timings will be off. Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing sells the cut domes and can do the porting if you decide to take that route.

Damnit you beat me to it. Wikipedia concurs with Yahoo that 600ft is the elevation of Buffalo. :biggrin:

Dome size depends on the altitude you will be riding at. I live on the east coast, almost at sea level and Jeff from F.A.S.T. Racing recommended 21cc domes which is about as small as I can run on pump gas. As for the timing plate, I believe 4 degrees of advance is pretty standard for a mildly modified shee, but others may have different opinions on that. I would PM FASTOYS or give Jeff a call and see what size domes he recommends for your altitude. F.A.S.T. Racing

Sounds good. I just wasn't sure if there was anything odd I had to do since it's an aftermarket clutch. The red painted marks also made me wonder since there is one on a single tooth of every fiber disc and I thought maybe they had to be lined up or something.

I picked up one of the Jeff's F.A.S.T. clutch setups and was just wondering if it matters which side the friction or steels face or if you can throw it in there any old way (obviously stacking them according to Clymers). Also, this was asked before but no reply was made, are the red marks on the outside of the friction discs of any significance?

A good friend of mine is a Harley mechanic and does Harleys and customs but doesn't usually do 2 strokes. I was going to have him check my bore diameter, out of round, and taper and then put a fresh hone on the walls. He asked me what crosshatch angle I would like and explained that there are different crosshatch angle hones you can do depending on what you are doing with the motor (racing, longevity, etc). He said he would most likely do a 30 degree but to check with someone reputable first. I do mostly trail riding and I was wondering if any of you guys do your own honing, what crosshatch angle do you use?

What about the cylinders? Can the same technique be used on those? I have rust on the studs and obviously I'm going to tape off the top and bottom cylinder decks.

I want to take the factory black paint off the heads to get a nice silver finish and was curious if sand/bead blasting has any detrimental effects on the heads. I would assume glass beads would be a lot easier on the heads than sand. Anybody ever do this? Also should a clear sealer be used over top of the finish after it's blasted? Let me know what you guys have done to yours.

At this point I cannot justify spending another $400 on porting (I'm paying for college) along with the down time. It has only been 2 months since I bought it and I really want to have some fun in the snow. I didn't get a chance to call Jeff today but now that I read it again, it seems that the domes get machined for the extra stroke, not the actual head. So if I was to run the spacer plate between the case and cylinders and have the stroker domes swapped for normal ones, would that solve my timing issue? Later on maybe next summer or next winter I will have the port work done and swap back to the stroker domes along with losing the spacer plate. I know it is better not to run the spacer plate but I have already invested enough money in this project and can't really throw more into it right now. Let me know if that solution will work and hopefully I will get a chance to call Jeff tomorrow.

From what I recall, he said with the machined head I wouldn't need a spacer plate and nothing about a thicker base gasket. Is it possible that the Wiseco 795 series pistons he gave me accommodate the 2mm lower position of the ports during the top of the stroke?

He is giving me the machined version of the head that will allow for the extra 2mils that the piston comes out of the top of the cylinder deck.

Decided not to send the cylinders out for porting simply because I'm at the limit of what I can spend at the moment. I figure I'll run it with the stock porting for the time being and have them sent for a new overbore and port work during the next top end rebuild. Jeff said it should run ok with the stock porting but would absolutely run amazing if I did get the port work done. All in due time. I'll post pictures as the project progresses along with a complete list of the modifications.

Well just ordered my 4mil stroker kit, F.A.S.T. Racing head, timing plate, and a slew of other stuff from Jeff over at F.A.S.T. Racing so as soon as everything arrives the fun will begin.

If anybody knows a good shop in NJ or eastern PA, it would be extremely helpful as I need to have machine work done to the cylinders and crankcase. dajogejr - for the time being I'm going to hang onto the crank, I will let you know if I decide to get rid of it though.

Didn't clean it. I just looked at the other side of the crank and there is def a decent amount of oil residue so I'm willing to bet that is what did it. The only thing I can think of is the right side must have been running extremely lean. Sounds like a good carb cleaning is in order...

Well I finally pulled the cylinders off to take a look at the carnage... One f***ed up looking ride side connecting rod eh? Guess it's time for a stroker kit! Was thinking of keeping the stock cylinders (they look ok) and having them boring out when I get the pistons, then calling up the guys at F.A.S.T. Racing for a 4mil stroker setup w/ a welded crank, a NOSS head, and VForce3's. Let me know what you guys think. I'm not sure how far out you can go with the bore on stock cylinders, if anybody knows please educate me. Also, will I need to get new carbs or a single carb conversion with that setup or will the stockers do ok? I really would like to build the bottom end to be bullet proof so I will only have to do this once so if strokers are less reliable than a stock stroke crank, maybe doing a stroker setup isn't for me. I do mostly trail/field riding and occasionally go to the track. Thanks again for all the help!

After I popped the head off, I pretty much gave up hope that I would be able to take the inexpensive way out on this one. I'll keep you guys updated with the status and what I find as I go. Also, if anyone knows a good machine shop in NJ or nearby on the east coast who could do boring, honing, check the piston-bore clearance, and possibly do a port job, please let me know. Thanks again for all the input.

Pulled the pipes off tonight and poured a nice pile of metal shavings out of the right pipe... I'll probably pull the carbs and wait until tomorrow or Thursday to pull the cylinders off and cry...

Hi guys. First off I would like to say you have a great forum here. I picked up my first banshee about 2 months ago and have been riding it happily ever since. It pulled hard, started on the first kick, and never knocked or pinged that I could tell although this is my first 2 stroke. It has FMF Gold Series pipes w/ Powercore 2's, Pro Flow intake w/ K&N filter, and the previous owner told me he jetted it for the pipes and had rebuilt the top end 20 hours ago along with a 10 over bore. Over the weekend a friend was riding it and said that it started acting like it was out of gas. When he came to a stop, he said the kicked was stuck and it would not kick at first, then he got it to kick but it was making a metallic slapping sound so he pushed it back to the house. I arrived shortly thereafter to find my wonderful toy sick as a dog. I pulled the head off that night to try and see what was going on and the right side piston and dome looked as if they had been scraped clean with a wire brush, whereas the left side is black with carbon buildup which is what I would think it should look like. At the top and bottom of the stroke, the right side piston has some vertical play and that is what the metal slapping sound is. Also the right side piston does not come all the way to the top of the cylinder deck (see photos). I'm thinking the wrist pin bearing or the crank bearing spun and/or the connecting rod is bent. I'm going to pull the cylinders off completely sometime in the next few days as soon as I get the chance to see where the problem is. iHopefully I don't need a new bottom end but if I do, I'm thinking about calling up the guys as FAST Racing and doing a stroker kit. I also have to figure out why the motor is running the way it is so any input you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Also the pistons say 0.50 on them and I measured the cylinder width to be 2.536" left side and 2.538" right side which seems to be closer to a .020 over bore than a .010, so this guy has me wondering if he knew what he was doing. I would assume the 0.50 on the pistons means +0.50mm/.020 over bore piston but correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the help! Left side Right side - that is as high as the piston goes during its stroke now domes Left dome - seems to be a lot of nicks on this dome Right dome