tgbanshee

Those screw extractors are an absolute must have IMO. I broke the head off one of the bearing stopper plate screws when I was rebuilding my motor and had put loctite on the threads. I almost shit a brick, then realized I had the screw extractors in the toolbox. Zipped the shank right out.

From what I remember, I think it is 0.004" for every inch diameter of the piston. Stock pistons are 64mm which is about 2.5197". 2.5197 * 0.004 = 0.010 So the minimum your end gap should be is 0.010". Off hand I don't remember what the max the end gap can be is, but I think it says in the Clymers manual for stock and the first size overbore.

Try putting a notch in the head with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to get it out.

It sucks but you are most likely going to have to split your case and pull it out from the other side. This is what mine looked like when I had to take it apart to replace the crank. Crappy pic but you can sorta see how the end of the rod is mushroomed over the edges of the inner race of that bearing This is what my actuator looked like

I built the motor myself and did check the compression before I started it but from what the general consensus was as far as what I should be getting in compression from everyone (150-160psi) , I thought maybe it would lower after it broke in which was def not the case. This is my first banshee engine build so it has been a good learning experience. The hour of riding time that it has on it wasn't very hard riding and 45min of that were very easy riding with the break in mix. As far as the spacer plate goes, I know it's good spot for an air leak to develop but unfortunately I did not have enough money at the time to have the jugs ported for the 4mil and was steered away from getting cut domes because I was told that port timing would be off with them and no porting. I also used a very thin layer of Threebond 1211 on each side of both base gaskets as added insurance. Next winter I'm going to send my jugs to Jeff and get a modified trail port for the 4mil and ditch the spacer plate. For the time being I think I'll run race gas and probably switch to larger domes when it gets warm and I start riding it more so I can run pump gas again.

Stock bore on a 4mil would be 373cc. Check out this thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=85931&st=0 and here is a website that will do the calculation for you: http://www.havocperformance.com/ENGINECALCULATOR.htm

The 4mil stroker will help a little with bottom end but what is really going to define how your motor pulls is going to be what kind of porting you get done. A good engine builder will be able tailor the porting to the type of riding you do. Give Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing a call, he does porting and can hook you up with everything you need: (785)364-5325 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

If you are talking about the water pump seal, all you have to do is pull the clutch cover off. You are going to have to take the impeller bearing out of the clutch cover to get at the seal, so it would probably be a good idea to replace the bearing along with the seal. Also just a tip, put grease on both the outside of the bearing and the oustide/inside of the seal and inside the clutch cover where they fit in. The fit is really tight so put the cover on a block of wood and use the back side of a socket (sized to the outside race of the bearing) with a rubber mallet to gently tap them in there. It's kind of a pain, just take your time and they will eventually seat in there.

Does it matter that a small amount of the water is going to flow into insulator of the plug and possibly throw off the measurement? Or would it be better to put some electrical tape over the hole?

I'll probably pull the head and check for signs of detonation next weekend. I really hope nothing is damaged too bad, everything is brand new in this motor except for the trans, and I def don't have money for another damn crank right now and won't until the summer. Not to mention the crank that is in there is brand new and it would really piss me off if I had to chuck $500. :mad: Is there a proper way to CC the domes? I would assume you block off the plug hole at the bottom of the face of the dome and just fill it with water up to the top and measure it with a graduated cylinder.

I'm wondering if maybe my domes were mislabeled and I got 20cc or 19cc domes. I can't see that having a +4mm crank would cause the compression to raise 20psi higher than it should be. I'm def going to email Jeff and see what he thinks.

I have about an hour of mild riding on a fresh rebuild. F.A.S.T. coolhead w/ 21cc domes, 4mm welded stroker crank w/ spacer plate, fresh bore and pistons .020 over, +4 degrees timing, pod filters, vforce3's, stock porting. I have 310 mains and 27.5 pilots in the stock carbs, running 93 octane with Klotz Super Techniplate at 40:1. I'm at about 180 feet elevation where I ride here in NJ. Leak down test passed, 6lbs for 6minutes needle didn't move at all. Squish was .048" in the left cylinder and .052" in the right cylinder. I've checked my compression twice since the rebuild and have kicked 180psi in each cylinder both times, and this was in 35 degree weather with a brand new Matco compression tester. Anybody have any clue why my compression is so damn high? I would think it should be around 150-160psi at my elevation with those domes. Does this mean I need to run race gas? If so what octane should I run and can I do a 50/50 blend or something along those lines? The bike runs like a raped ape but if it needs to be running race gas to keep from damaging the motor, I don't want to ride it until until I pick some up. What do you guys think?

Trail Tech clamp and ProTaper Contour bars here.

Gotcha. That is the direction I installed it. I took an educated guess and luckily happened to be right.

My bike has been running fine since my rebuild but I just saw a picture of the inside of someone else's clutch cover recently and it showed the impeller bearing as having the plastic piece on the one side of the bearing that covers the balls facing out towards the impeller gear. From what I remember, when I reinstalled my impeller bearing I installed it with the plastic piece toward the inside facing the seal. I had a local shop sandblast the cover and they popped everything out of it so I didn't have a reference for which way it went back in. The Clymer manual said to install it with the manufacturer marks facing out but mine had none or they wore off. I did what I felt was logical at the time and installed it so that oil could get into the bearing the easiest. Like I said the bike runs great, I'm just curious if this is something that will cause a problem down the road or if it doesn't matter at all and I'm being paranoid.

Glad I could help. Good luck with your fresh rebuild. :thumbsup:

I kicked 180 psi in both cylinders on mine before I ever started the motor after my rebuild and I'm at 180 ft elevation with 21cc domes... Seems way too high but maybe after everything seats and I break the motor in that will go down to where it should be. As far as not getting it to start, I had the same problem and did the TORS removal like you, was kicking and kicking it until my foot almost fell off accompanied by some very colorful language... turned out to be that I had left that stupid TORS module plugged in that is underneath the gas tank on the left side of the frame. Unplug it and rip it off there. As soon as I disconnected that, the bike started in 2 kicks.

I bought all my parts from these three places: http://www.ebay.com/ http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/ http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ I got a bunch of stuff from eBay, you can get some pretty good deals off there. I just picked up a Lonestar locking axle nut for $34, retail is $110 on it. Lonestar's stuff seems to be all pretty expensive but the quality seems to be worth the money. If you want to save money, get the Ricky Stator adj. timing plate or if you want a really nice billet one, get the Pro Design. Also get a Clymers manual if you don't already have it, that is a MUST, tells you pretty much how to take apart and reassemble everything on the bike. After you get your pipes on and re-jet, I would do a plug chop to make sure your jetting is right. Plug Chop BTW I live in Flemington and go to school at Rutgers so if you need help working on anything let me know, I'm not too far down the road from you. Good luck and welcome to the HQ!

That is more or less what I'm concerned about. I really want to run a filter, but want to be sure it is going to flow enough fuel. The small filter that Cascade-Innovations sells has some sort of gold porous metal looking filter in it, and the larger version looks like it has a very fine conical screen inside. Small Filter: Large Filter: They are both cheap, just don't know which one to buy.

Cascade has two fuel filters, a large one and a small one. I know this is nit picking, but I don't know which one to get even though it probably doesn't matter. The reason I want one is because after my motor blew, I cleaned my carbs and found the right side main to be clogged to hell. Any of you guys run a fuel filter?

I just finished mine, took me awhile but it was my first time and I tend to be very meticulous about things. Pick up the Clymer manual for the banshee if you don't have that, it is a must in my opinion. One very important tip, make sure you keep everything clean, don't let dirt get in there. Take your time, make sure you have the proper tools, and follow torque specs. The case halves do not use a gasket, you need to pick up a tube of Yamabond or the stuff I used Threebond 1211, Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing sells it. It is really not that hard, just intimidating the first time you do it.

That Lonestar hub looks badass. Cascade has em for $175, def going on my "to do" list. Will that work with the stock axle?

If you buy the F.A.S.T. coolhead, no you can use the stock studs. The Pro Design coolhead, yes you have to change them but I believe it comes with the studs.

I had the exact same problem on mine before the motor blew. I'd have a full tank of gas, then go ride a week later and and find the tank to be down to 3/4 full, so I turned off the fuel after every ride. I cleaned my carbs out and found the right side main jet to be clogged so that is what blew my bottom end. Checked the float level and it was fine though I suppose I should check it for holes.

Agreed. You really need to scuff the paint for that stuff to work optimally, especially on whatever the hell Yamaha puts on that cover.