tgbanshee

I would do a compression test just to be safe. If you're below 160psi, which you probably will be, you will be fine on pump gas. If you're above 165psi, I would say at least a 50/50 mix is mandatory. I thought I was going to be able to run pump gas when I put my motor back together with 21cc domes, a 4 mil stroker, .020 overbore, and fresh pistons at sea level but my compression turned out to be way higher than I expected. I sat there scratching my head wondering why my brand new Matco gauge read 180psi in each cylinder. Borrowed a friends gauge and got the same thing. Gave Jeff @ F.A.S.T. a call and he said it was because I was running a spacer plate under the jugs for the stroker which increased the case volume, my sea level elevation, and no porting. Bumped my timing back to +2 from +4, mix 50/50 93 pump/VP C12, and haven't had any problems in almost a year of riding. Definitely try and borrow a compression tester if you don't have one and measure your compression if you want to be 100% sure you're ok to run pump gas. It is unlikely but you happen to be over 165psi, you will at least know you should be running part race gas and this could save you from some costly repairs in the future.

Mine was doing the same thing, turned out the float valve was sticking open. Clean out the float valve or even better gab yourself a rebuild kit and rebuild both carbs, the kit is cheap and good insurance.

XXXAdrenalineSports PMed me. He is talking about the vent nipple that is under the plastic cover on the clutch cover. I'll paste my reply so anybody else who was wondering knows where it goes and what it does. "On the clutch cover underneath that plastic cover there should be a nipple that a hose slips over. The Clymer manual says it's a cooling system vent but looking at both sides of the clutch cover, it just vents from the other side which would make it a case vent for the clutch area. A breather hose hooks up to that and runs through the hole that is on the top part of that area on the clutch cover underneath the plastic cover. The end of this hose then hooks up to a "T" fitting. One side of the "T" hooks up to the hose that goes to the TOP of the coolant overflow bottle, the other side of the "T" hooks up to a vent hose which on my bike ran up to the front next to radiator and just hangs down not connected to anything. Like I said before it is a vent, the one end is not supposed to be connected to anything and allows the case to breathe and air to take the place of coolant in the overflow bottle so you don't get a positive or negative pressure buildup. If you don't have the "T" fitting, just run two hoses to the front individually, one vent hose from the top of the coolant overflow bottle to the front and one vent hose from the clutch cover to the front."

It's really disappointing that a company which makes such good quality lighting equipment has EMI/RFI problems with their electronics. Hopefully someone from Trail Tech will see this post, do some noise testing, and make the appropriate filtering changes in their products so that in the future people don't have to come up with workarounds for problems that shouldn't exist in the first place.

ThreeBond 1211, Jeff @ F.A.S.T. recommended it and it works great. It's very manageable and I haven't had any problems. Here is another thread on the same question: Sealers

Ditto on what everybody said as far as the copper washers going underneath the head nuts. I also put a dab of ThreeBond 1211 on each washer side as added seal insurance but that is probably going overboard and not necessary. Haven't had any problems.

For added peace of mind, you could use some bearing seat locktite. The Loctite brand makes a product for it but I used the general purpose R01 bearing retainer from Saf-T-Lok and haven't had any problems. You only need 1 drop on each bearing seat and whatever you do, make sure you don't get it inside the actual bearing if you decide to use it.

If you could post a picture, that would def help us identify the holes. I think MikeNick head the nail on the head though with them being crankcase vent holes.

When I put the cases back together and torqued everything down I noticed the same thing, crank would spin freely but not as freely as it did when it was just sitting in the lower case half with no seals and the top case half off. I have had no problems in almost a year of riding with the motor so I would say what the Trinity guy told you is right and makes sense.

If you do find out that it was the base gasket that was leaking, you can can put a very thin coating of Threebond 1211 on both sides of the gasket as added insurance. This stuff works great, I used it on my spacer plate 4mil motor over a year ago and have yet to get any leaks. Your local Yamaha dealer might have it and Jeff at F.A.S.T. sells it.

Every bike is different so you really need to grab a compression tester and see where you are at once you put the domes on, then decide what fuel to use from there. I have a 4mm stroker, 21cc domes, and NO porting with a spacer plate so the extra crankcase volume I have gives me 180psi compression at sea level. Yours should be lower because of the porting. I run a 50:50 mix of premium 93 and VP C-12 which is 108 MON. MON (motor octane) will always be lower than RON (research octane) and in the U.S. the pump octane rating or R+M/2 which you see at the gas pumps is an average of the RON and MON (retarded, yea I know I blame the politicians). I agree with Bansh-eman you will probably be in the 150-160psi range, and might want to consider mixing a little higher octane race gas with your normal 98 pump gas or using straight race gas if you can find it for a reasonable price and want to be on the safe side. If you aren't getting any detonation on 98, then you could run straight 98 all day long without a problem, it all depends on the bike.

When you say that we all assume that you mean found the chunks in the transmission oil when you drained it since you don't really see any of the two stroke oil unless you take the crankshaft out, there will usually be some sitting in the bottom of the case. In a two stroke motor the crankshaft area and transmission area are completely sealed off from each other, transmission oil only touches the gears and the clutch and the two stroke oil, which is mixed with the gas, only touches the cylinders, pistons, connecting rod, and crankshaft. They never mix since the areas are sealed off from each other (unless you have a hole somewhere which incites a pretty big problem then). In a 4 stroke, the oil that lubricates the transmission and clutch also lubricates the crankshaft, pistons, etc. So then it actually is impossible for you to have found metal shavings from the piston in your trans oil unless 1)you have a 4 stroke motor in your banshee, 2)you have a big hole somewhere and a major motor problem, or 3)a magical fairy put them there.

Have you done a compression test?

Check the obvious stuff, a good carb cleaning might be in order if you haven't already done that. Make sure you don't have a clogged main jet in one of your carbs, that is what happened to me a month after I bought my Banshee. This is what happened to the motor: Motor Woes Also check to make sure you are getting spark on both sides of the motor. Did you do a leakdown test when you put everything back together?

I wish there was somebody nearby in NJ that sold CAM2 110 so I can just go pick it up when I need it instead of having to order C12. Raceway Park is the only place I know of that sells race fuel and it's about an hour drive

You could use a capacitor and fashion a low pass filter to filter out the high freq stuff but that is more trouble than it's worth. Using a ferrite choke, you don't even have to cut into the wires. Here is picture of what one looks like: I can't say for sure if that will solve the problem but it is worth a shot. Here is a link to one on Radio Shack's site: Ferrite Choke All you do is snap it over the wires and you are done. If it is too loose and can slide up and down on the wires, you can pass the wires through and then loop them around the outside and pass them through again and wrap a zip tie around it. I know it probably sounds like smoke and mirrors but these really do work and are used a lot in computer equipment, that is exactly what the big round plastic bulge in the end of your computer monitor cable right before the connector is. If anybody tries this out and it does indeed fix the problem, please let me know so I can pass it on to Trail Tech.

I'm looking for an alternative to C12 right now for that exact reason, the shit is over $80 now for a 5gal jug in NJ. There is a small airport 10mins down the road from me that sells aviation fuel, I'm toying with the idea of trying that out.

Stators/alternators in general can generate a lot of high frequency electrical noise and pass it down through all the power circuits. Spark plugs aren't very quiet either, you ever listen to an AM station in your car and nail the throttle? You can hear the spark plug noise in the AM static and hear the static change tone with your RPMs. So one thing it could be is this noise resetting the microprocessor in the Vapor unit. I sure hope that Trail Tech filters the incoming power in these units and noise tested them before they started selling them. I work at a small electrical engineering firm and one of the products we designed for a customer had a problem in the field where the microprocessor would randomly reset. It turned out to be a nearby cell tower. I would be curious to know if putting a ferrite choke on the power wires that go to the Vapor unit would solve the problem.

I run C12 in mine and it loves it but I need to because the motor compression where I ride in NJ is 180psi. C14 is 115 motor octane which is pretty damn high, C12 is 108 motor octane. Do a compression test, post the results here, and see what others think. I run a 50:50 mix of C12 and 92 octane and +2 timing and it runs fine, no signs of detonation. There is no need to run a higher octane that your motor needs, you are just wasting money. C14 is more expensive than C12 and the price of gas in general right now isn't exactly cheap either.

6-8 kc's... you better strap a gas generator onto the grab bar... :cool:

Pretty interesting pics there. Def make sure you do a leakdown test when you put the motor back together and I would check the water pump impeller and gear especially if it is the stock plastic impeller to make sure it isn't burnt up and your motor overheated causing the damage.

I used Threebond 1211 on my case halves along with a super thin layer on the cylinder base gaskets and the reed valve gaskets and the motor was air tight when I did the leakdown test. This stuff is pretty good, Jeff at F.A.S.T. has it as well as cascade-innovations you might wanna give it a shot. Also check to make sure it isn't leaking from the right side of the crank, sometimes air can get past that rectangular keyway in the crankshaft and leak into the clutch area.

:yelrotflmao: ROFLMAO! :yelrotflmao:

Here is a pic so you know what it looks like:

Pretty easy to install and you don't need to remove the clutch plates. Pull the clutch cover, remove the pressure plate spring bolts, remove the old adjuster from the pressure plate, stick the pancake bearing in between the pressure plate and the inner hub, put it all back together and you are done. After you put the springs back on, make sure you use the adjuster on the pancake bearing to alight the shift actuator with the arrow on the case and check your ball and rod to make sure they are in decent condition. The pancake bearing is cheap insurance to make sure they don't get welded together.