mazuullaa

X5 Redline Racing

N68A or JJH is pretty common needles to run in those carbs

Did you have any port work done to the cylinders?

Is there a list of groups fighting for the rights of ohv rights on the Oregon dunes?

Cameron does great work and is always there for questions .

I can't imagine going to the dunes without a two stroke to ride it would get boring riding a four poke. But this Trx450r bashing is crazy from what I have seen. My wife has a 05 450r with a 02 crf cam, esr intake, and exhaust. My brother in law has a Ktm 525xc with Ct exhaust and air box mods. In a drag race he cant get in front of the Trx. My buddy has a Yfz450 with the big three mods plus high comp piston and head work. The Trx can't beat him in a long race but in a short race I can. Maybe this Trx is just a freak.

t5's will work good for an all around bike. I think you should try them out.

I used four gaskets.

I have t5's on my 4 mil with a Hush kit that has a spark arrestor. Last week I had it dynoed and the hush kit was doing some weird stuff to the power curve. I like my bike to be quiet, now I know the cascade csfx silencers will make it quiet but they dont have a spark arrestor. Do you guys that run them on the Oregon dunes had any problems from the Forest service?

The rubber washer (gasket) that sits inside the carb top was missing on the left side not the boot. I am going to go over the whole fuel system. The bike leaned out some how. The crank is getting checked out and welded this week. Thanks

The bore on the cylinder has to be re done three good sized scratches. The left rod end looks like it got hot. And there is alot of play on the rod on that side. I just did a 4 mil on my bike and have a good crank just needs to be welded I am going to give him. Thanks for the help

I thought a compression test would be a waste of time with a motor making that much noise. So I did the leak down test and then got into it. Carb tops couldn't be air tight because of the cable but no rubber washer would give it a chance to suck alot more air I would think. Just trying to find the real cause. He was using 50/50 blend of 91/110, 4 degrees of timing, and 20cc domes so I think he was safe there. Thanks for your thoughts

My brother inlaws 91 banshee just got some work done by a local shop. They put in new pistons T6 pipes and jetted it. The new top end has 15 hours on it and the other day he just got into 6th gear at the dunes and it made alot of noise and he shut it down. He asked me if I could look at it so I did a leak down test and it passed. The main jets he had in it where 330's and the plugs where black. The left piston is toast. What I did find is on the left carb top there was no rubber washer could that be the air leak? I am going to rebuild it for him with a new crank because the crank in it is damaged now. Just trying to figure out how it died.

I didn't have a 48 pilot so I used the 50 I had. The air screw does not seem to do much when idling it dosent matter as long as it isn't seated it has a little bit rough idle. So get a 48 right, I know some people think you can't do a plug chop with race gas but I did it anyway and with the plug chops I did 165 gave me a light 2mm cardboard brown ring and very little to no color on the tip of the insulator. The bike revs good but seems fat at idle to 1/4 throttle. Where should I go from here? I really would like to keep the main jets on the fat side should I try 48 pilots and 168 mains. Any help is appreciated.

No they have different bends.

I would look into a shaved head or a Noss head with smaller domes.

I have a dune ported 4 mil with t5's , pods , and runs on 50/50 110 pump. With the stock carbs I was using a 30 pilot and 360 main and it ran good. I got some 28pwk's that I want to put on would a 50 pilot, n68a needle, and a 165 main be a rich starting point?

I just got done putting a dune ported 4 mil together with t5's, stock carbs, pods, and 155 psi compression. Close to sea level I started with 30 pilots middle clip on the needle and 360 main jets. Its fat but does rev fairly clean I plan to work my way down from there.

I used these tires for about a year and a half with a bolt on shee and they work great and had no problems. But that bike got turned into a 4mil ported by Redline and the first time out with them I ripped two paddles loose almost off the tire. I still like the tire and was wondering if I bought a new pair if they would last or should I go to a Skat Trak in the same size?

If your over 156psi on your compression check I would start worry about octane But it should be fine with premium and + 4 timing. Alot of people run that.

Ok I tried to search. I finaly got the 4 mil together and I put 1.7 quarts in like I used to but after I started it ( first kick :biggrin: ) Its low on the dip stick does it take more since it was apart? I like to stress out over stupid stuff. Both pipes smoke the same and it leak downed 6psi for 6 min. Also I couldnt get a 1/2 gallon of engine ice in it is that common? I dont have a lock up.

If you have an old clutch grab two fibres and three steels. Align them up and drill three 1/4 holes through them and bolt them together now the clutch hub and basket will move together as if the clutch is engaged. So now all you have to do is the rag or penny trick to the gears.

That is the correct way figured it out.

Changeing the water pump, seal, and bearing on my 2004. The new bearing I got from Cascade has a plastic disk in it. Does it face the water pump seal?

For a hill shooter I would use a 8" rim. I had the same mods you want to run this year with 10 paddles I borrowed from a freind and they sucked. I went back to the trailer and put my 8 paddles back on. The 10 paddles hurt second gear starts and killed the top speed of my bike. This is on Oregon sand though your sand could be different.