TurboBanshee420

banshee frames are MIG (wire feed... which is the only difference between a TIG and a MIG) welded by a computer. and if you do it just right and don't heat it up too much to rise the carbon to the surface then it won't be weak. Like I siad unless your a "master welder". If you've ever welded and looked at the weld when your done and it looks like a graphite color... then it got too hot, and pulled the carbon out. making "carbide" on the surface..... just google it if your in doubt, because I don't feel like giving any free welding/metalurgy lessons on here to those of you who love to knock people for knowing a thing or 2 about something.... no offence letsgetthisdone I'm not saying your wrong. I've never seen the need for a gusset kit, because I don't have anywhere I can fly the banshee 150ft. But if you say those things happen to the frame, then they must. I suppose that's the reason for aftermarket 4130 cro-mo frames huh....

Is it really cold there? I've had my carbs freeze from the snow getting in.... but it was 2 degrees. I've never heard of water making them stick without it being VERY cold outside. Maybe from a rusty cable though...

your running a lockout aren't you?... those bitches eat up pushrods like you wouldn't believe. pancake bearing is a must!!!!

maybe I just don't understand your way of thinking.... his reg could still be good...if he's trying to mount it to a painted surface.

As a avid welder I can tell you that you shouldn't weld a frame that hasn't already broken. welding carbon steel takes all the carbon away from the metal making it VERY brittle. You will have a better chance of actually weakening it further by adding such a mod. Unless you are a master welder and can TIG weld your ass off. google it if you need proof of this.... Why do you want to add a gusset kit?

Dean Sundaul always said that unless you have a 440cc or bigger banshee then 28pwk's are the best for you. I would have to strongly agree. I put some 34mm pj's on my 397cc and anything past 1/2 throttle was a waste. And I have dyno #'s to prove it. I lost 11hp after 50% throttle (properly tuned with a wide band o2). and that's with an extreme port job, shearer's inframe drag pipes, 4mil stroker...blah blah.,..... stick to the 28's you will feel a huge difference once you get those shitty stockers off there. and get rid of the airbox! (if you haven't already)

yeah man! works titties don't it. That's all I've ever used. some people say it wil ruin your foam, but I've used it for years and none of my foam has ever dried out or ripped. I even use it on my paper pods and got the same results. just a little scrubby with a soft brush and BBrrrrrrpppp clean as a whistle. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly! That shit is thick and if you use too much it likes to stay in there for a while. rinse rinse rinse....then rinse some more

snop.... the body of the reg IS the ground used BY the reg to drop the extra current. Hence the 1 wire coming out. If it used an external ground then it would be a 2 wire. 1 for ground 1 for input

that is NOT normal!!! sounds like it's going lean to me. When a bike isn't getting enough fuel it wants to rev higher. It probably doesn't have anything to do with the puddle but more something to do with when you slow down. If you have a clogged pilot jet then it would do this. I would pull off the carbs and remove the float bowls and take out the pilot jets.... take a look through the holes and see if you can see right through them. I had this happen to me once when I was running a single carb. I found a VERY small rock stuck in my pilot jet causing it to run really f***ed up whenever I wasn't on the throttle. If one of your carbs has this problem then because of your boost tube the other one will still feed the starving cylinder. Making the problem not so noticable for a minute or so. Long story short..... Next time this happens.... let it rev real high in neutrel for about 15 seconds then kill the bike without hitting the throttle and pull both plugs. If one is light brown or even white and clean looking then that is the side with the problem. your plugs should ideally be a very dark chocolate brown almost black with the very tip of the electrode being light brown. repost with results.... you may want to look into a pro-flo kit and get rid of that stock filter. I have a brand new airbox for sale if you want it with the pro-flo kit installed.... foam filter.... which is good for dirty riding. I have no need for it. I only ran it for about a year and a half. Still in new shape. always washed every other ride.

your regulator is junk... or you still have a bad ground. remember the body of the reg needs to be mounted to bare metal! Clean up your mounting surface and try again. this time just measure the from the light plug with an ohm meter set to ac volt. it shouldn't go past 14 volts @ redline. this way you don't blow more bulbs. repost with results.... you may have to buy a better reg to deal with the extra power. trail tech sells them

I forgot to add some important info on how to check it... pull apart the plug coming out of the stator. use a digital ohm meter to check the resistance between the 2 white wires with green and red stripes. that is the wires for your trigger. if it's 0 then it's junk. you can do the same for the red and green wires with the white stripes. if nothing then stator is burned up and shorted...junk If both of those have any resistance at all then they are good and you should look into your grounds. do this and repost with numbers. the clymer has specific resistance tolerances for each. I don't remember them off hand one more thing... check to see if your wires pulled off the terminals on your ignition coil. They are just a couple blade style term. and they suck! I had to put tape around mine to keep them from wiggling off the coil. also make sure the ign. coil has a nice clean ground where the bolts go through. take some sand paper and clean up the frame and mounting area on the coil. use di-electric grease on that area to keep it from rusting up again.

cool man! careful with that spray! nitrous is no good with a high comp. engine like that r1. may want to star twith a 25 shot and some really high grade race gas....VP114 and see if it pings. do yourself a favor and retard the timing about 6 degrees before you spray it. It will save you some $$$

you don't NEED to do anything with a port job. But if you want to take advantage of it you may want to think about some reeds and pipes for starters. you can get a whole wiseco 4mil crank and pistons off egay for $750. I found mine for $599...brand new in the box

I had some no spark issues a while back. I cooked 2 pickup coils...trigger coil (whatever you may call it). I've also had the ignition side of my stator shit out on me too. I have a knack for burning up electronics! just incase people don't realize... your stators are 3 phase. 2 of those (phases) go to the lights. and the 4 other poles (1 phase) with small gauge wire go to your CDI. The small guage wire makes more voltage, less current. Big gauge wire makes more current(amps), and less voltage. google "3 phase basics" and learn something!

they don't bend... but they sure do break! I took a huge chunk out of my front inner module when I nailed a head sized rock at 80mph. I'd have to say you may have damaged the tire... Like a broken belt on a car tire.

just wondering if you guys knew that the twin piston fronts off a 450 fit on the banshee. I put mine on yesterday. Fit like a dream. oh yeah and I put a 87 warrior steering stem on my banshee because it was 3/4" longer than my stocker so it would clear my huge IMS tank. one more thing.... I got a ducati (748,996,999) twin (opposing) piston rear caliper on the back of the banshee.... only had to make 2 small brackets (straight) to move it outward a bit. Stops those 22"ers like a biotch now! just a couple secrets for you guys.... even though I'm douche of the year! LOL ....slow going on the turbo banshee.... still workin' the spark advance map. I had to take the flywheel into work and mill some timing marks on it so I could match the physical timing to what the megasquirt thinks it's at. (like you would to a car) Just tying (sp) up some loose ends... before I got to carried away patience is getting pretty hard to come by! link is a pic of the spark table (not mine) so you guys can get an idea of what it's like....

admitedly... I had to shed a tear for a child that was left in a car with the windows rolled up by his step-grandma. His name was luke and he was 17 months old. 1 month older than my son. he went to the same daycare place right down the street from me. WTF is wrong with people!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LMAO....man you guys are killin' me! You sure do act like grown ups! LOL!!!! you 2 (snop and jr) must be bansheehq head of security huh... well you should be awarded a plaque for biggest hypocrits on the web. I may have retaliated to some choice comments, but you guys take the cake on acting like a couple of jr. high bullys. snop your 27 and jr. your 30...? are you sure? Now your snipe'n all my posts because your mad that I ride without stopping for some over-bearing pigs that have it in for quads. Please man.... spare me the "I'm better than you routine" cause in the end it's you guys who look like the jackasses for acting like a couple 12 year old girls who just found out their dating the same nerd. I may not be the smartest cookie in the box but at least I don't have a thousand tickets,(one for everytime I've had a cop try to run me down with his car between trailheads) or have to drive 7 hours to ride. Give us all a break and quit whining! I've never met anyone who acts a fool so much as you 2 on the WHOLE web. Their is more than enough room on here for the lot of us.

fast by gast.... google it. i got a 44mm for $165 they are the cheapest I could find on the net

your local shop will have them in all sizes... mostly for the crotchie guys. I think you need a m10x1.25.... not sure. I put ducati calipers on my banshee and I had the same problem finding new banjo's

Thanx for your opinion.... but that's all it is.... opinion. I don't care. you can see video's of it running on my channel. l8r hey where is this dave albin guy....??? west coast or east...? does he have a website? is he still doing turbo banshee's? I saw a video on GTperf.com of a sweet turbo banshee making an 1/8 run. It sounded pretty cool. Was that anyone on here? Does anyone have anything worth saying besides rzbansheeman or wallace84? your guys's combined anger is giving me great strength.... I can feel it flowing through me! hahaha keep it coming. I'm lovin' this rise out of you all.

almost the same as a 4 stroker... just think of all the oil burning shit piles on the road. I don't see my o2 crapping out for a long time. They say it will slowly stop being accurate. just like any other engine would kill it. By then you should have the tune spot on though. and I'm talking about a time period of probably 500-800 hrs of ride time. Nothing to worry about really. the o2 itself is only about $60 so it's worth the sacrifice after all that is done

megasquirt 2 v.3 = $199 (kit not pre-built) megasquirt 12' wire harness (each wire labeled) = $69 Innovate LC-1 wideband o2 = $169 05' GSXR 38mm TB's = $42 ebay MAF from mustang = $13 ebay silicone tubing from siliconeintakes.com = $64 14gauge magnet wire for stator = $10 fiberglass encloser = $25 ebay rectifier = $21 ebay battery = free donor fuel fittings/line (jegs) = $87 (-8AN...3/8" army navy size) fuel injectors from injectorsonline.com (610cc/per minute high impedence siemens deca shorty) = $180 36-1 ford EDIS trigger wheel = $20 ebay Accel GM DIS 2 pole coil = $36 ebay Garrett GT-17 = $48 + $220 rebuild Stainless tubing for exhaust/intake = $75 wastegate actuator = $35 ebay MSD 2225 external fuel pump = $89 ebay fuel pressure regulator = $90 bigger radiator = $225 ebay oil cooler for turbo oil (450r) = $28 lt300 oil pump for turbo = $8 machine work, time, shit I learned from this = PRICELESS keep in mind people that most of this stuff you definetly don't need if your doing a fuel only non-turbo banshee. I went the whole 9 yards on this thing to make it what it should've been 3 years ago when I did the turbo the first time. It would cost anyone about $600-700 to do EFI only to their banshee. With minimal skills, you could still get away with it easily. Plenty of things out there that would bolt on without machine work!

snop... I didn't roost anyones truck or ride in OR so if you want to place blame then look somewhere else sorry man... If you want to make an example of me then whatever.... I'll take my ideas somewhere else. here is an idea.... if you don't like what I say then don't read it! Anywho... You might be able to use the craptor stuff but you would spend more time changing it to work then it would take to find something better. as far as the TB size.... it doen't matter because the fuel is atomized by the injectors. so you can go as big as you want on the bore size up to a piont. Injector failure is caused by dirty fuel.... unless of course you have a vortec engine which has the injectors right in the port next to the valve. and it would still take a cam with some overlap to carbon up the injectors. You haters can do all the people who want to learn a favor and stop posting here... just start a "I hate turbobanshee420" thread instead and post there. shit maybe you can even get a pole going...LMAO To make all you guys happy I deleted all the non-business posts so no more people cry about what I say. We would all appriciate it if the rest of you guys would slim it down to business only posts. or I could just start another new thread...

one more thing rzbansheeman..... if you know about the rdrz500 forum then you should know about smurph and his efi rz350.... check that one too. He did fuel only and you should be able to get some good ideas for your system from him as well. Their is only 3 guys I know about that have made themselves a custom efi and I'm one of them... the other 2 being smurph and whitey. though whitey gave up on his efi banshee and went back to a drag banshee w/carbs last I heard. Check into it. I'm sure you could top all three of us if your patient. I could help you make some shit too since most of the time I spend here at work is making things for other guys on other forums. Let me know if you want some help. I've gotten pretty good at TIG welding alum. I could weld up your injector bungs for ya. Also if your good with CAD... my brother and I just got a HAAS CNC in the shop. He's willing to give me some machine time for my own projects as long as it's already drawn up in CAD for him to load into machine code for the cnc to understand. www.baldturbofreak.com l8r bro