elwilliams13

Ok sorry took so long to get back(work) I had to switch to the bel ray mc-1 the local shop quit carrying the techniplate. Mix it at 50to1 now. I got the timing advanced +4 same mods as before. Now I have a 350 in there and the ring is darker than with the 330 and 340 but smaller than 2mm. It runs good as hell with some good torque. I figure 330 to 350 is a good range with the main will try a 360 just to see if the ring gets taller but no bog with the 350 main. Got a set of the vito needles in there 3rd clip spot and revs up like a monster. Anybody got any further input but I think I am very close now thanks to all for your help.

Anyone give me a ballpark for .025 shaved stock head at sea level with stock cylinder bore? will taking the bore out to the first hone of .20 drop the compression any noticeable amount? Thanks.

Looking for some toomey T-5's in decent shape? PM or contact me on this forum.

I can't say much for winter, But with me in Florida I run a 280 main with the lid on and rad valves with your same pipe no other mods. 260 to 280 in summer. I used a fatter pilot a 27.5 and it helps with getting on the needles smoother it was not very responsive with the stock pilots.

Some oils burn cleaner than others, only way to be sure is doing plug chops to dial in your mains. If you do a search on plug chops you will find some good how-to's on it.

I had similar set up on mine except for I had a UNI filter and I ran 300 main with 27.5 pilot needle in 3rd slot and lid on no snorkel. airscrews 1.5 and it ran good. Now I have FMF fatties powercore silencer 2 uni pods and rad valves and I run 340 main 32.5 pilot needle in 3rd slot screws at 1.5 and it runs like never before. I am at sealevel high ass humidity and 85 to 95 degrees year round.

Thanks for the heads up. I also noticed as I looked at it earlier instead of the one yellow wire and black one besides the plug, It has two yellow wires, one black ground wire and the square plug. Suppose it puts 100watts per yellow wire?

I got it from my local shop and he orders from Rick's Motorsport Electrics Inc. The shop owner had nothing but good things to say about then, We shall see the product has a 1 year warranty with it.

Just got my 200watt stator and was wondering if you guys upgrade your stock lighting harness with some thicker wire(14g maybe 12) when you upgradr your stators. I got the higher capacity regulator and am running 2 PIAA 55watt and one 55watt flood to my low beam wire on the stock switch. Wondering if this will work or use another wire switch combo? I am deleting the stock headlights.

My wife has an 06 banshee stock and it has a prodesign K&N kit installed lid off and plug chop was perfect with the 200 main. At 220 it bogged out in 5th gear during the chop. I ride in Florida very humid and 85 to 100 degrees 90 percent of the time. Hope this helps.

It brings the piaa 55 watt 6in series 40 lights with the mounts.

Thanks guys got the series 40 kit from ronnies comes with mounts, and a 200w stator from my local shop here. All will be in by tuesday. Thanks for the advice fellas.

Does anyone know if there is one of those h6m bulbs out there greater than or equal to 55 watts, Or is there a aftermarket light that will bolt up with little modification. I am going riding next weekend and I have no lights on my shee and we will be doing alot of night riding I've been told. So need to get some lights on her. Thanks.

I just wanted the battery because when I am on the trails at night and slow down the lights dim and on occasion have had a few tree branches drill me in the face. It hurt with helmet and all. I bought the 35 watt bulbs from ricky stator and it helps some but not a solution. My buddy runs 55 watt lights with the stock stator and offered to hook mine up but his lights are a little dim. Not enough juice from the stock stator.

I am looking into getting a 200w stator to run better lighting. I have been reading on here that alot of people have been having trouble with Ricky Stator, are there other good choices out there for stators? If so give me some ideas, I am going to do this soon and was thinking of going with 2 55w lights and the battery as well. Thanks in advance.

Does the +4 have an effect on the smoke ring on the plug? Went from 400 to 340 main and someof the bog went away dropped to a 330 and no bog at all but the smoke ring is a light brown and only 1mm tall but is identical on both plugs uniformity is the same.

Yes it is the UNI filter 2 into 1 set up. But I currently have the 2 stage uni pods on it. I keep getting the 2mm smoke ring with 340 mains but the bigger I go in main jet size it gets darker but smaller than 2mm. Not sure if it makes a diffrence. Also the needle is the Vito's one with 5 slots vs. the 6 slots with the dynojet but it is longer than the stock ones.

Well gonna get me some 340 mains today and check for leaks around the intake and see what it does. It runs better with the 30 pilot though than the 27.5 just off idle.

I am riding on flat terrain sea level I got holeshot front and rear front 21x7x10 rear 20x11x9 gearing is 15 front 41 rear also have a 39 rear if that will help.

No porting I was thinking A massive air leak? Maybe. But both plugs are burning even and when I had the Toomey air filter set up with the one UNI filter and 340 mains it had a 2mm ring light brown lighter than it is now on the plug chop. So I put on the UNI pods and I got all the way to 400 and the ring is darker but less than 2mm both look identical. At the same times I also added boyesen rad valves. I'm lost on this one.

I have a 2006 stock with fmf fatties, powercore silencers, boyesen rad valves, +4 timing with plate, stock carbs and running techniplate 32:1 with 93 octane. I have 2 uni pods on each carb no airbox. I have the vito needles and currently have a 400 main 30 pilot and needle clip is one notch down making it richer. I weigh about 220 and it has a mild bog at wot but as soon as I shift it goes away. I assumed it was the tranny winding out but I may be wrong. I was also wondering if the size of the smoke ring is as important as the color when doing the chops. It is currently medium brown and about 1mm thick. Also will diffrent oils make the smoke ring on the plug change. Is anyone have a similar set up I would be intrested in your numbers or advice. I live in southwest florida it is always high humidity and hot 85-95 degrees. Thanks in advance.

I'm at sea level with fresh topend 80 to 90 degrees fmf gold fatties powerore silencer, +4 timing stock carbs with uni pods no other mods whatsoever and when I did my plugchops was nowhere near the 2mm ring until I hit the 390 main and now have A 400 in there and it runs strong.

Well got a 360 main in there 27.5 pilot 1.5 turns out. It still running strong at WOT no bog with the big jets. The midrange stutter has gotten better with the bigger main needle clip is at 3. The plug chop shows a thin light brown line not the dark 2mm line. I will try bigger mains? Most people with my set up are running 340 mains, Am I missinf something?

Did you remove all the TORS related equipment?

Will try it tomorrow and see what happens. Also is the sputter a lean or rich condition it is not really a bog, maybe It is just pipe pings!