jamebo

RMATV has some good prices on that stuff too. I've ordered stator cover, water pump cover, and clutch cover insert from them so far. I got a ModQuad stator cover from them 30-50 bucks cheaper than I've seen them on a lot of other sites.

I'd heard people talking about that problem for a long time, but never had it happen until recently. The past couple of days it has done it three different times.

Welcome to the HQ, Katie.

Yamalube 24:1 here. I think I'm one of very few on here that mixes that rich, but it works good for me.

Stroker, you and PACIFIC NW do make a good point about the chipping risk. I've been practicing aluminum polishing recently, I may decide to do that. I had a scratched pipe clamp that I sanded and buffed out a week or two ago and it turned out pretty nice. Maybe I could do a decent job on the clutch cover. Thanks for the info, guys.

You drag raced for a mile and a half in fourth gear? Or are you talking about a course.

Thanks for the input on this, guys. I'll probably end up getting one, but it will be a little while till I have the cash. They look good as heck, hopefully I won't have any chipping issues with the chrome.

I've gotta admit, when it comes to the motor I like the shiny stuff. I've seen a few clutch covers for sale lately that are chromed, and considering maybe getting one soon. I wanted to check and see if anybody was using one. If so, what they thought about it, and if they had any issues with fitting/clearances or the chrome chipping off.

lol, took a little while to reply, huh?

It's like that where I live. Lots of local places we used to ride all the time are now closed off. To get to any decent riding areas I have to trailer for at least 1 or 2 hours.

"All I can say is it goes.... when it's running". :teehee:

Thanks for the reply, Jason. I'll check it and adjust it to those measurements. I appreciate it.

Anybody? When sitting on the bike should there be any play, or is it alright for it to be tight with little to no movement up and down?

I just adjusted my chain the other day by the owners manual. The book said to position the bike where the chain is tightest, then with no weight on it to adjust it to where it has 15-20mm/0.59-0.79in slack up and down on the top. I adjusted it to about an inch or slightly less, but when I get on the bike the chain seems pretty tight with the shock compressed. Is this correct? I followed the directions, but it just seems like it may be a little too tight. I want to make sure it's right so I don't cause any possible damage.

Lol, something is definitely wrong there!

I also like to add Stabil fuel stabilizer to mine, since mine sits for a little while in between rides. Helps keep the gas fresh.

Shifter is sold.

R.I.S. Designs Banshee shifter, $45 shipped. I'm in the central Florida area.

I must say that I like the Fatty's. I bought my Banshee new, 100% stock. Rode it stock for about a year, then installed the Fatty's, K&N, rejetted and I was VERY impressed with the power increase. That being said, I haven't used any other pipes to compare them with, so I can't say they are better or worse than any others out there. But they are MUCH better than the stockers, that i do know firsthand, lol. I think they are a great all around pipe, I'm very happy with mine.

Well guys, I really appreciate the help! I went to Advance Auto and picked up some 1500 sandpaper. Got back home and tried it out, using some WD-40. Lightly sanded, then used a buffing wheel on a small rotary tool (kind of like a Dremel) that my wife got me awhile back with some polishing cream. Mirror finish, looks brand new again! :thumbsup: Thanks again for the tips! :beer:

Thanks a lot for the info, guys. I'm about to head up to Lowes and the auto parts store, and see if they have any 800 and 1200-1600 wet sandpaper. I've also been thinking about getting a Dremel and polishing kit. They have some decent prices on them at Wal-Mart, would that be a suitable tool for touching up the finish on small parts like the clamps?

I hear ya on that, I'm going to start looking around and doing some shopping for a bench grinder. It makes me feel sick to get my brand new shiny clamps in and one of them is scratched up not two hours after receiving them!

I got the clamp on the stinger tube half-assed and tried to feed it through the frame with the clamp on the end... it went, but sustained some scratches along the way :dry: Man that billet is easy to scratch! (only scratched one, after I used the lube they both went on easily) I don't have a bench grinder, but forsee one in my VERY near future! What grade of sandpaper do you use? Snop that sounds like a good idea with the silicone, would lube it good and also give it a good seal. Yeah I used Dawn dish soap, MJ. Things went right on, then. :thumbsup:

Well I just got back in from installing them, and now reading your reply. I ended up getting them on by doing what you are describing, except I used Dawn dish soap. They are FMF Fatty's. I took the stingers off and lubed both sides of the rubbers and they went right on. I appreciate the reply Now I guess I'll be heading over to the appearance or general discussion section to find out how to remove scratches from billet! lol The first clamp I was trying to install got a few scratches on it :pinch: :sad:

Quick question, guys. I just got my Cascade pipe clamps in and trying to install them.... the things are like WAY TOO FUCKIN TIGHT! I'm getting seriously pissed, I paid extra for the polished ones and I've already scratched up one of them and marred it up trying to wedge it apart to fit. Is there some kind of trick like dish soap or something to help it slide on? Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!