jamebo

The shipping was free from RMATV. I'm pretty sure they had full fronts in black. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got a set of the Maier front and rear fenders, the fronts being race cut. They were reasonably priced from RMATV, and they fit perfect. Can't say anything about their radiator and tank covers because I've never used them, but the fenders mounted good and look great. Mine were white and they didn't offer the full fronts in that color, but if I remember correctly they did offer them in black. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been hearing some good reviews about that stuff, that's probably what I'm going to go with. Thanks a lot guys

Yeah I've heard that's some good stuff. It may have rust inhibitors in it also, I'll check into that. Well I don't know if it's true or not, but maybe not. Some of the guys were saying that it contained solvents that would find openings in the finish and eventually lift the chrome off and cause flaking. I have used it myself on my FMF's and never noticed any ill effects.. but was just checking around on the net about it to make sure because the PT's cost me a ton of coin. The pipes were just triple plated a couple weeks ago. I don't know who it is that does Duncan Racing's chroming, but it looks to be high quality work. It was some rocket chemical scientist's from California, they first developed it to prevent rust on the Atlas missile. I use WD-40 a lot around the house, and always have a can around. Kinda shocked me when I saw some negative advice about putting it on chrome. It may just be a few people's opinions though and not really true.

I use blue locktight on all the stainless bolts on my bike. And it's a must for any of them threading into aluminum parts to keep them from vibrating loose and falling out.

Just got a new set of Paul Turner Mids and wanting to keep them looking good. I know there's a lot of chrome cleaners and polishes on the market, but I'm looking for something specifically to keep them from rusting. Thought about just wiping them down with WD-40, but after some research learned that people debate on whether that harms chrome or not. Any suggestions on what would be a good protectant?

Sorry, I should have said flywheel holder. Yeah the threaded pullers are fairly inexpensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The flywheel holder I bought was around forty, looks like a pair of vice grips. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used a strap wrench awhile back and discovered that the bike was way tougher than my knuckles, lol. They work, but definitely be careful when using them. Afterwards I picked up a flywheel tool on eBay, around thirty or forty bucks if I remember right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe check into having a regular set coated in black ceramic. I've never had a set that were, but some of the other members have posted pictures of theirs and they look great. From what I've heard the pricing is reasonable too.

I'll take a closer look at them tomorrow with the plastic off, probably go ahead and remove the stingers and swap them out to make sure. Hoping I get off work and home before dark, but I never can tell with my job.

That wrap looks clean on that pipe, Paulie. Glad to hear the good reviews on header wrap. I just dropped some coin on Maier plastics, and would hate to melt a hole through them, lol. Also added some replica 1987 Banshee graphics which were a real PITA to get right. I sure don't want to do all that again.

I believe they are on the correct sides. The left side is not as close to the plastics, not sure why the right side is though.. maybe a slight defect in the angle on the pipe. Didn't make it to the parts store today, but definitely stopping by after work tomorrow.

Cool, I was hoping it would work good. I'll swing by the auto parts store today and pick some up. I would order some from F.A.S.T., but looking to fix it today so I can get some ride time in. Thanks for the reply, man.

Recently purchased an '87 Banshee with a set of what I believe to be old school Bill's pipes. Problem is the right side pipe by the airbox area is close enough to the rear fender to melt the plastics. I just put new plastics on it, so I definitely don't want a hole burned through them. Looking for a quick fix on this, maybe some header wrap from the local auto parts store. Has anybody here had this problem before and tried this stuff out with good results?

Looks like those parts have been sitting in a rain filled tub behind the shed for a few years.

lol, it'll wheelie on a dime and give 9 cents change!

Will do, I'll close the gap a little more. That may solve the issue I'm having. I've got spark, it just seems a little weak and intermittent on one side. I've replaced the coil, wires and plug caps and still having the same problem. Stator and pickup coil are ohming out fine, so the gap may be what the problem is. Thanks for the advice, man.

@ bansheesandrider, Though tempting, with the job I have it's very important for me to be there.. there are not enough operators to cover for me. Also my boss knew where I was at and that the race was postponed, lol. sstaton It checked out at .20 with a feeler gauge, so it's pretty close. Do you think it would help if I closed the gap a little more?

I think I am going to order one of those, sounds like a very useful tool. I ended up removing the wheel and inspecting the stator, but the dark stuff I saw on it turned out to be some kind of glue or something. I could buff it off with a rag, so I guess it wasn't burnt after all. Had some problems with my compressor not being big enough for the impact, it did finally remove the nut.. but I decided to torque it down with a torque wrench just to be sure to get it tight enough. Used a strap wrench, but learned the hard way about busted knuckles with those, lol. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but went to the Daytona 500 over the weekend. Sat all day in the rain yesterday only for them to postpone it till today. Which I can't attend because I have to work. Guess you win some and some you lose, lol.

Roger that, cam. I'll set the impact on the first setting, which is 170 lbs if I remember right, and just give it a couple good jolts. Your right about that, I sure as heck don't want to damage the crank on it!

Thanks sstaton, I'll be pulling it tomorrow. Think my stator is bad, so I may not be putting the flywheel back on till a replacement stator comes in. I checked it with a multimeter, and it read good at 18.1.. but I think it could possibly still be bad. I have spark, but not consistantly. I removed the stator cover and peeped through the holes in the flywheel at the stator, and one of the poles has some burnt looking dark discoloration on it. I'm thinking it may have broken or shorted out wires in it, but I'll know for sure tomorrow when I get the flywheel off and have a good look at it.

Sounds good, guys. I wasn't sure how important the torque specs were, but I guess it's just to insure the nut doesn't back off. The impact wrench should be insurance enough, then lol. I'll dab some blue thread locker on and impact her down. Thanks for the replies everybody.

I have a threaded puller, but looking for the best type of flywheel holder for when I torque the nut back on. I've seen some on eBay for around forty bucks that insert into the holes on the flywheel, but wondering if I can get away with just using a strap wrench like they sell at Sears to keep it from turning while I torque it back down.

I've got to remove my flywheel to inspect the stator. I have an impact for removing the nut and a threaded puller, but assume I'll need to hold the wheel when I go to torque the nut back down. I notice there are two general types of holders, the vise grip kind for the holes, and the strap wrench. Which one works the best, or does it really matter?