Titan up

It also has a pro design water pump impeller and a chariot timing plate

I do prefer a local pick-up..But I don't mind driving to Yuma or El centro or somewhere, to meet someone from say, socal that may be interested. I'm not opposed to shipping it, but you need to pay the shipping and do the research on figuring out how much $ and how to ship it (build a crate etc...) $4,000 is my bottom dollar..If I can't get that for it, it's not worth getting rid of.

Nice R but no thank you. I need the cash to build up an LTR I Just picked up.

$4000 call or text Keith 480-415-6672

Comes with dirt tires too. 99% new Kenda klaws for the front and ITP I-razr 50% worn for the rears..Mounted on stock wheels. Anybody local to AZ let's make a deal. PM your # The bike is very clean and runs great.

The bike is an '04 and I'm the original owner. In OCT '07 I did a complete overhaul rebuild on it, from the frame on up. It's been ridden a handfull of times in the past year and a half. I'm asking $4500...I have ZERO desire to part it. -Drag ported by HJR 421 cub cylinder with hotrods long rod crank and max bearing -Duneable overide tranny N down 1-5 by HJR -Sling shot lock-up with pancake bearing and Magnum clutch basket -35mm PWK carbs, one piece billet intake, V-force 3 reeds -Chariot head -Dual pingel valve -OEM stator and flywheel -Shearer pipes with cascade pipe clamps -+2+1 Alba a-arms with Elka dune edition shocks -Cascade +4 swinger...stock rear shock has been re-sprung and re-valved by Palo Verde in Phoenix -Roundhouse style carrier -G force adjustable axle -Trail Tech X bars with big bar clamp Pm for more details or any questions

it's a carb issue.. Any ideas to why my carbs are leaking excess gas into the motor causing my rich condition? The float level is in spec, i even tried raising the height 2mm...new rebuild kit which included new fuel needle valves. ??????

Very interesting about the vaccuum. Both of the cylinders are getting fluid, but the right side does spooge a little more. Would it be possible for the left cylinder to pull some of the tranny fluid from the right side, through the center crank seal?

It has backfired a couple times, revving it in neutral, after the plugs fouled out from idling for about 5 min. It wasn't a loud pop or anything, just kind of a quite queef sound out the exhaust with a slight flame flash. Yeah the caps are nice and tight..I tried 2 different coils, snipped the end of the wires and re-capped them too. I tried swapping CDI's with a buddy..Pretty much brand new OEM stator and flywheel on it.

I'm getting fluid into my cyllinders, per the abnormal amount of oily spooge coming out of the pipes at the base of the cylinder...I can't tell if it's fuel that's over filling the carb bowls and leaking into to the crankcase through the intakes, or if the the crank seal is leaking and tranny fluid is entering the crankcase. The bike starts, idles and runs great up until WOT, where then it sounds like the main jet is about 15 sizes too big, with all the sputtering that it's doing. I've been running the same set-up for about 3 years with no issues or changes to the bike. I just rebuilt the carbs, the floats do "float" and they were in spec. I even adjusted them to 18mm to no avail (35m PWK) I leak tested the engine and it only dropped .5 psi in 15 min. Is It possible the crank seal "seals" during a leak down test but then leak when the engine is running, due to vibration and or the bearing on that side is getting ready to go out??

There's probably just something wrong with your banshee..If not, you should really consisder killing yourself.

Nice bike. I think I saw that on craigslist not too long ago??

I had HJR drag port mine... With out taking actual measurments, just comparing before and after pics, the intake boost ports are much larger (taller) and the exhaust is alot wider. I don't think there's much to open up in the main intake windows.

Cam, what do you mean by the stock studs with a NOSS head don't work right?

Did you mean stock wattage stator? Because that's not a stock stator.

These cylinders look like the ultimate duner set up. 20 hp and 15 ft lbs of tq over the cub at 7,000 rpm...wow. Average 74 hp between 7,500 and 9,500...nice. What does the intake side look like? Are they opened up like a cub, with the thin bridge and worm holes? If these are honest, non manipulated numbers off the dyno, I would trade my cub in for these in a heart beat.

When you say you "pin" the throttle, does that mean your stabbing it to WOT? If so, wouldn't that be when your main starts to come into play? Don't rule out that it might be a lean bog.

I assume they would be the same as stock, like all the other billet heads, which would be 20 ft lbs. Go around all the nuts at 10,15 then 20 lbs.

Sounds like fried chicken shit racing to me.

Alf you're doing it to your self man. You're actions are kinda like that desperate used car sales man that never gives up...pushy-pushy-pushy. I appreciate what you do for our site and it takes balls, to go out on your own and start a company... I respect that. I know you need to hustle and get your products and name out there for business, but I think you might be a little TOO over the top and that could steer people away....JMO You need to do what you need to do to and thats fine, just don't call people out and give them shit, for not calling you first or another sponsor for an item. Professionalism goes a long way.

I didn't know the main exhaust was that close to the aux exhaust ports on those cyl's. Don't think that would be too healthy on the rings??

Sorry, but nobody is going to give that information and rightfully so, for obvious reasons. Your best bet is to purchase an override and compare it side by side with an OEM. If you have the access to machines with the proper tooling, it's not hard duplicate at all.

Wow...Sounds like it's end of the month and someone's rents due.

Yep +4. If you do decide on the cub, I recommend not having it ported any further....Just a casting clean-up will do. In my experience, after I got mine drag ported, it seemed to narrow and move the power band up higher. Not real favorable on a duner IMO.

If you just get 10mm now, it will eliminate the "what if" factor. I wish I would have done the 10mm myself....I guess I needed to crawl before I could run