tidos76

Stock pingel(petcock), new condition, never installed 8 paddle dune hoppers. great condition. I just need bigger paddles (tires only) will consider on a partial trade for 10 paddle single/tripple buff haulers $150 obo Front tires and rims. Kenda 1dune runner,1dune hopper(same thing) I don't think they are banshee rims. Honda bolt? if someone can tell me how to measure them I will $150 obo stock swingarm pc candy apple green New bearings, no bold or rod $50 obo stock length chain. good condition. only about 4 trips to the dunes on it make offer Moose riding boots NEW. size 9 worn for 10 min. (I have a bum ankle and couldn't shift in them) paid $120 asking $80 firm FMF fatties. a few dings but chrome is in good condition, this is pipes only no silencers $150 obo stock timing plates(2) free you pay shipping amp link, not sure if bearing are goo or not $30 obo ALL PRICES ARE + SHIPPING AND 3% FOR PAYPAL!!!!!!

x2^^^

About 5-7 cans of the cheap degreaser and a power washer. I use neverdull AND mother billet polish TOGETHER. they both work good. but work even better used together. Use old t-shirts to buff of your polish. DON'T USE YOUR WIFES, that gets ugly fast!! Use windex on chrome If you cant get rid of the streaks try some rubbing alcohol or just let it dry and buff it out with a clean towel POWERBALL To clean the top of the cases, its kind of a hard spot to get to if you wanna keep water out of you carbs and filters. i spray it down realy good with degreaser and have at it with a tooth brush. get everything broke up. then get a squirt bottle and sill with water. turn it to stream and rinse it all down. it cleans it really well and only takes about 10 min. Carbs Take the carbs off spray them doen with carb cleaner, rinse, then soak them in degreaser/soap/hot water mix for about 10 min, take them out and take the bowels off.rise everything out and dry them off. you may need to toothbrush some of the small spots. BE SURE THEY ARE COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE REINSTALLING! Rubber boots If you cant cut the stains on anything rubber, intakes, air box boot, ect. spray a lil carb cleaner onto a rag and rub them down with it. when your finished put some tire care spray on them. The tire car helps moisturize them. its not a bad idea to put in on them every now and then to help prevent cracking. Best thing. clean it after EVERY ride. the cleaner you keep it the easier it is to clean. and the more buildup on the bike can lead to more rust, tarnish, and for you to be slower cause everyone knows a clean shee is faster! :cool:

i have a stock timing plate if thats what you need, you pay shipping you can have it.

yes you can cut and splice the wires. i wouldnt just cut both ends and not have a pug. if you have to cut both sides go get a plug from radioshack. just make sure the wires are connected correcty and the plug is sealed.

its height X width x rim size stock motor i would use a 20x10x8 shorter tire and smaller rim.IMO On a mostly stock bike i dont think you will notice a dif in the 20x10x8, 20x10x10. you will probably notice a diff between the 20x10x8 and the 22x10x8. the 22 have a longer rollout. Maybe someone else will chime in, I'm not sure exactly how a stock motor would work with each size(i've never had a stock motor). It also depends on what you will do to the shee later. but paddles that will last you through most of your mods.

Leak down tester

BUMP for needing to sticky!!

Best think is to just tear it down. Check everything. be sure to look for scaring on the cylinder sleve, and check your pistons. 115lbs is low. If i see 115lbs its usually time for a rebuild. Also may need to do a leak down test once you get it back together.

I'd take it back to them. if they screwed up you carbs make them buy you new ones. 99% of dealers will guarantee their work. If I paid someone to do work for me, weather it be on my banshee, house, or just an employee, i expect them to do what they are getting paid to do. They should AT LEAST fix them. If they try telling you nothing is wrong. Tell them your getting a second opinion from another dealer and if that dealer agrees with you they are gonna pay to fix it.

dude its not milk..... :yelrotflmao:

927 or supertchniplate FTW!!! lmao i 've always used 927 at 32:1. and supertchniplate for alky at 32:1 I fould plugs cause i run rich( on purpose, plugs are cheaper than pistons) I resently inspected my top end and there was not eve a hairline scratch. i could even still see the hone marks in some spots.

like they said there can be numerous variables. not only torque and hp, but gearing, weight, tire size, everything down to your alighnment can cause a bike length difference. I was racing someone on my f4i at a local drag strip. both were 600's. I would win even though i had to shag speed at the end to stay under 120mph(nhra rule for no leather pants). i would cross at about 118. she .....yes she would cross at over 125. Its all in the launch with most racing.

Great guy. good comunication

dirt would be ok. THICK mud maybe, if you get into stiff to were you may get water on you filter i would go with an air box. but if y want some pots lemme know

Dont run pods if you playiong in water IMO. one good splase and you have water in your cyllinders. If its just a lil light rain or small puddles you'll be ok. I have a set of K&n's that will fit from stock to 30mm carbs. Most often you'll have to jet up. you'll be flowing more air. The more air you flow the more gas you have to flow with it.

thats correct on the wiring, DON'T leave out the voltage regulator. you can add a switch to the yellow wire if you dont want the lights running all the time. Just get a on/off switch . most have 2 tabs on the bottom some have 3. run the yellow wire to one of the outer tabs. then a wire from the center tab to the headlights and mount the switch somewere.

I have a good set of fmf fatties(pipes only no silencers) and a set of 8paddle tires. I need a set of 10paddle haulers. I only need the tires. If the tires are on rims in good shape i'll just swap rims. I would perfer tripple buffs but singles will do. Let me know what ya got.

get you a batter tender. they are faily cheap. you hook in up in the bike. when your not riding all you have to do is plug it in and it will monitor and trickly charge(when needed). i have one on my sportbike, i love it. I will be puting one on the shee once i finish the dc conversion.

something doesnt sound right. I about the same elivation as you and running 16cc domes and i'm ony 180. 21cc domes dhoulf be more like 150-160 if not less.

so i order the pingel adapter i thought i needed. but when it can realized it had a 3/8npt and i need a 1/4npt. if anyone has a adapter with a 1/4npt and is willing to trade let me know. I may even trade my dual outlet pingel, for a single outlet with an adapter.

the idle would stick a lil high(maybe 500rpm higher) sometimes when i had them, i thought it was just my twist throttle. its nothing serious. just blip the throttle if it idles a lil high. i'm not too sure about the low end bog. have you looked at your plugs? if its smoking alot when ideling it may be a lil rich on bottom. try going 1 turn out on the air screws. if it was good on top with the 165's put them in. you need to do a plug chop. read this. after you do that. the the same thing at half throttle. instead of changing the mains on the 1/2 throttle run move the needle, down is richer, up is leaner. once you got that done work on the pilots and air screws. at an idle you should get a lil smoke and a clean steady idle. blip the throttle. you should get a lil puff of smoke and a quick response. adjust your air screws until you get a better response. if you have to go too far in or out go to the next size pilot jet. remember its always better to be rich than lean. plugs are cheaper than pistons. This link will help you too.

if your wanting a STOCK bike to play on the dunes, trails, drag get a banshee. if you wanna fly 359408 feet in the air you might wanna look elsewere. you wanna put some cash up, do some work/mods, and have something custom that will whoop anything and fly high!! GET A BANSHEE!!!! in other words if you want to compare completely stock bikes....your going to open a can of worms and be here reading for ever. EVERYTHING depends on what type of riding you do and what type of rider you are. give us a better explanation of what type of "duning" you are talking about. than maybe we can tell you what you need. NOW! in my opinion......a banshee is THE duning quad of all quads. now bow to it and tell it you sorry for ever questioning its awesome power and magnificents.

+1 those work good on the flywheel too!

+1 on the cordless. Thats my fav tool when were at the dunes