THE358BANSH

Man I thought these things vibrated bad enough all ready. I couldn't even imagine them with a 90 degree crank... Evan

The only adjustments able to be made on these shocks are, spring preload, crossover height, nitrogen pressure, and compression. They do not have any sort of rebound adjustment other than the shim stack...Thanks

Thanks for the offer but no thanks. We are WD with just about everyone in the industry and that keeps me busy enough. I am willing to work on the price guys, don't be afraid to make some reasonable offers! Evan

Thanks Loco. I rode on the back shock this weekend and was pleasantly surprised. If they were a little longer I would keep them. These sure would look nice on someones quad. I am willing to work something out for trades, just post up what you have. Evan

Make some offers on this stuff guys. I don't need it sitting around any longer...

Thanks for the offer but I am looking for approximately 17" front shocks if I was to trade.

I just got these in today. I purchased a complete set mainly for just the rear shock. I figured the fronts would be too short for my YFZ arms and I was correct. They are a stock length, piggyback, dual rate, compression adjustable model. They are valved and sprung for a 200lb rider I was told. I basically bolted them on my ride to check ride height, and pulled them off to put my LTR shocks back on. They are a stage 2, more specifically a PB36C model. I would like to get $600 for the set, comes with a manual for the shocks also. Shipping would be determined by your choice of carrier. I checked and the lowest for UPS ground is approximately 25 dollars cross country and goes up from there. Shocks are located in 54165 zip code. Thanks, Evan

The one place I have always thought to be over looked on the swinger are the linkage mounts. You go out and buy the baddest, beefiest, cromoly piece you can find, and you get two little 1/8" thick brackets that have to transfer 100% of the load into the arm. When I built mine, I went about trussing it differently and have had zero issues absolutely beating the snot out of it. Check out the picture for a better idea...Evan

PM sent!

I have a Graydon style intake kit for sale. I built the manifold myself being as I could not find a real Graydon deal. I ran this on my stock stroke and a ported 4 mil. Ran just fine on the stock bike but couldn't keep up with the stroker when it got really cold, like 10 degrees or less. Ended up switching to 30mm Lectrons and now this stuff has been sitting around. Included in the purchase is -Keihin 39mm PWK Carb -Cable for single carb -Fabbed manifold similar to a Graydon -Rubber boot to connect manifold to carb -Rubber boot to connect carb to an extension tube(not provided in sale) if desired -Huge ass K&N, less than an hour of ride time -K&N DryCharger for above The only things not included are the hose clamps for the filter and boots. For some odd reason I can't find every single one of those little buggers. Carb Cable Rubber boots K&N DryCharger Intake 1 Intake 2 Intake 3 Intake 4 I have seen packages like this go anywhere from $175 to $350. Figured this to be an almost complete setup except for hose clamps so lets start at $300 shipped via UPS. Also looking for trades and/or cash on +3+1 arms that accept a 17" shock, one of those TrailTech Vapor deals, Stainless brake lines, post it up and maybe we can talk about it... Thanks, Evan

Payment sent this morning for the fenders. Thanks Jason...

Does the rigid accept a stock size or not? If it does, contact Steve(LoboBoy). He's selling a surplus of nice lookin' aftermarket radiators for $230 shipped. He shipped mine yesterday and I can't wait to see it...Evan

Email sent!

Could I get some pictures of the rear fullbores? [email protected] How's the overall condition of them? Also approximate shipping to 54165 across the state... Thanks

Is the Quadstar remote resevoir or emulsion? Also what weight is it sprung/valved for? Thanks

PM sent...

PM Sent...

So I just got my stuff from Packard today. Does anyone know the order for installation of the multi-piece jets? The setup has a Clippard flow control, a brass tube, and a brass tube with a flare. Thanks alot, Evan

Yes, the only things needed to register a quad in Wisconsin is a frame serial number, total width, total weight, and a few other small non-important things I can't remember... Now I don't know your specific laws, but I would be able to legally register that frame in Wisco. The questions probably need to get directed to your local DNR or conservation club to get answers. The fact that there is a history of bill of sales, I would **think** that you would be able to get the frame titled in your state. Just a start... Evan

Thanks for the replies, I'll order one up tomorrow... Evan

If your bottle pressure is at 900 psi, your flowing pressure is at 4-5 psi, and you have a 22/26 jet in the fogger I will guarantee the motor will be safe. A 22/26 jet should put you at a 18 or 20 shot. The motor should have absolutely no problems running at these specs. alcoholbanshee, just because you do not choose to run your stuff on the edge, where it makes most power, please do not discredit me by throwing out such an ignorant statment. If you tuneup is right, those are some great specs to start with. I have used them on everything from my Banshee to a 2200hp ProMod motor that I built for a customer. Evan

A good start on a juiced motor is to pull 2 degrees per 50hp sprayed. That is normally what I start with and then add timing and take away fuel from there. Just remember, lean is mean... Evan

Okay guys, I am switching over to 30mm Lectrons from a single 39mm PWK. What throttle cable for a thumb style are you using? I looked on TerryCable and MotionPros sites, and I don't know which cable has the correct end/bend for my application. Thanks, Evan

If you go to the parts store and get some Acorn lug nuts for an early '90s Geo Metro, they work great. They are 10mm x 1.25 pitch and have the right seat in them for my Hipers, etc... Evan

The first and most important reasoning of indexing sparkplugs is to prevent the ground strap from contacting the dome of the piston. Second, if there is clearance 360 degrees, you should oreientate the groundstrap 180 degrees from the intake charge. This is so that the intake charge has the least amount of resistance to get to the electrode/groundstrap. Personally, I think in a banshee engine, the groundstrap should face forward. My reasoning is that when the main pressure wave of fuel/air enters the cylinder through the transfers, it is being directed up and rearwards to promote better filling of the cylinder while pushing the exhaust gases out. When the charge wraps around the cylinder/head deck and starts to travel forward, it has a 100% unrestricted path to the electrode... Evan