bigblockbanshee

Don't mean to hijack but if you guys don't use the boost bottle because of clutter what do you use, just the stock pipe?

Skirt view of pistons as requested:

I gotta get off of my unemployed a$$ for a while. As soon as I get back I'll continue the discussion. I really appreciate everyone's input, challenged by others or not it's still helpful. If anyone can think of anything else I'm eager to hear it. As for the pipes, I don't mean to be stubborn or difficult but for now the T-5s are staying. Yes I know that they aren't the best choice for the type of build I'm doing but it's all I have for now other than a mint stock setup.

And before anyone gets torn up about the torque numbers I'm indirectly speaking of, I know the Banshees don't make torque. They aren't made for that type of riding. I got reamed a couple of years ago on a thread that I made about building a "torque Banshee". I understood and decided I'd have to make changes to my riding habits and go from there. I know this isn't a 4-poke with gobs of torque but I don't want one of those. All I want is a good, reliable engine with some good bottom end. Top end doesn' t mean much to me as I'll probably re-gear to bring that top end power down into a manageable range that I can use on the trails. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I just want a dollar's worth of power for a dime, but doesn't everyone? I know I can't get to that but what I think I can get to is a very happy medium while staying on a good budget. I doubt I'll ever see a dune or any sand so as I already stated my riding will be all slow, technical trail with minimum top end bursts. Keep it coming everyone, I'm learning a lot here.

Great posts everyone. The kind of trails I ride are the low end chugging type of trails. I came from a Sportsman 700 that I had to ride around that way. I'm not the type that likes to race through the woods at the speed of light. I don't mind going fast sometimes but not all the time. I've considered an IMS or a Clarke tank and may end up getting one but for now plans are leaning towards a stock tank. Nothing with this build is set in stone though except my budget. I've been 4 years trying to piece it together and have made a lot of progress in the last month but it won't hurt to take a little longer to save money for something if I can justify the benefits of it. With the carbs, the water/moisture issue gets to me. I didn't know anything about that problem and it doesn't excite me one bit so I'll need to at least get that taken care of. I don't really have a use for 80 hp either, only if it nets me some good bottom end. I'll never be able to really "air it out" on any of the trails I ride. I'd honestly forgotten about the port timing and spacers, etc. so now I'm kinda turning away from the stroker idea unless someone can convince me that it's the way to go. The only reason I'd considered a stroker is because of the type of trails I will be riding. I suppose though that with some extra clutch and throttle the stock cc could more than compensate for the lack of stroke that the 4 mil would have. Am I treading into the right territory here? How do you eliminate the moisture issue with the carbs?

Also I must state that I have a Top Notch Design cool head with 22cc domes that will be going on as of now. If anyone has any suggestions as far as dome size please tell me. I'd like to keep it on pump gas though. Race gas is so expensive around my area that it takes the fun out of it.

I was planning on just putting it together and running it as is with Toomey filter and T-5s and some better reeds but the longer I take the more the mod-bug starts to bite. My purpose is trail riding with good performance but good fuel economy. I'm about 400 miles away from any decent sand so I'm sticking with trail. I don't wanna get stuck out on the trail with no gas because I sacrificed fuel economy for a little performance. That's like driving a top fuel dragster back and forth to work IMO. Also my crank has too much side clearance on the rods so more than likely it will have to be rebuilt and I have no clue how much this costs or if it would be better off in the long run to just do a 4 mil stroker now and be done with it. So here are my questions: 1. How bad are the 26mm carbs? I'm talking about restriction specifically. Do the stock carbs restrict even a stock motor? I've just rebuilt my carbs with a TORS eliminator kit, idle kit, rejetted for T-5s, and all new internals. 2. Since my crank will need fixed should I just sell some stuff off and buy a 4mm stroker kit? 3. I know it's probably not recommended but could you run a 4 mil kit with stock/unported jugs and still see good gains? 4. Is a 4 mil too much for trail riding? 5. Given the fact I'm gonna be running stock cylinders what would be most beneficial, efficient, and reliable, porting my jugs and staying stock stroke or leaving jugs stock and going 4 mil stroker? I know to get the absolute most out of it there would have to be sacrifices made and lots more mods done. The debate between no porting/4 mil and porting/stock cc is unfortunately an "either-or" situation due to finances. If I had my way I'd do a 4 mil cub with 34mm carbs or something like a lot of members on here have. I also have no reason to do 100 mph or even 80 on my Banshee so I'll probably re-gear as well. Or when it all comes down to it should I just leave it stock and ride it? I just want a good running/efficient trail machine. Thanks in advance for all of your answers and intelligence. I come from the V8 world and I build my own engines and do my own tuning but I'm mostly a newb to Banshees if you couldn't tell from my questions lol. Chris

PM sent

Head is sold.

Forgot to mention I will only ship to the 48 contiguous United States.

Wiseco pistons 64.50mm bore with clips, rings, and bearings, no wrist pins, good shape- $40 (2) Wiring harnesses, I'm guessing 97-01 because they have a clear CDI plug but no brake light switch wiring. If the years are wrong please correct me.- $30 each Stock head with plugs, has some pitting on right cylinder from piston decapitation, could be smoothed out with a little TLC- $5 Also have an extra clutch and water pump cover. Clutch cover has rubbing from kick start and some paint is rubbed off. Could also be cleaned up and used with a little TLC. Looking to get $10 out of it. I'll post pictures upon request but it's just your typical slightly worn clutch/water pump cover. All prices are PLUS SHIPPING AND 3% PAYPAL FEES. I think they're low enough to where I could say they are firm lol. I've never sold anything on here but I've bought a few things and have good feedback. I have 100% feedback on eBay, my name is jetshortstop31. And I've bought plenty of stuff on R1-Forum.com if any of you are on there I'm R1Rider31. I'm straight up and won't BS you around. Thanks for looking!

Purchased brake light switch and new harness, thanks Minkia38!

I've got a set of FLY bars that I'd get rid of if you'd consider that? If Ray doesn't have a set that is... Didn't mean to hijack.

Look up motor city atv on eBay. I think his name is minkia38 on here. I just bought an '06 switch for $23 shipped. He's got one left.

I want to have a functional brake light instead of just a tail light so I'm looking for all the parts associated with a brake light such as the switch, bracket, fasteners, wiring, etc if anyone has it that they wanna part with.

Obviously $20 shipped is ridiculous but it get's people's attention so yes I'm willing to give some decent money but I need offers.

Anyone?

I'm interested in the stator but my harness and all electronics are from '97 and up. What did they change in '95 to make the stator work up to '94 only?

What's the lowdown on the matte or flat black plastics to the right side of the second picture above?

Just got my shocks from tundish2800 and they are in excellent shape. These are way better than what I'd planned on for the price. He gave great communication and fast shipping. Definitely would buy from again and recommend to other potential buyers. Great seller!

Lol ok ok I get the point. What are your prices? Also can you guys send me pix? If so send to [email protected].

Mine are toast. I'm needing a pair of rear hubs to bolt up to my axle. Preferably black powder coated but any will do as long as they're in good shape, not rusted, studs are good, and not beat to death. Looking to spend no more than $20 shipped. Help me out!

Is it a problem if it cracks? Mine is cracked on all 3 edges and for that reason I'm hesitant about pulling it off.

I don't think I've ever seen one of those on a Banshee. Where does it go back to?

Put me on the list. I missed one for a crank back in late January I think and didn't see it until first of March.