bigblockbanshee

That's funny... Guess I should quit buying stuff if I have that much faith in what a company sends out of their doors.

I've got 20x11-9 Holeshot HDs on the back of mine and they look ginormous. I couldn't imagine a 22" on there.

Why should you check stuff like that? Must you get a flippin' mic out and check every tolerance on something that you purchase? You pay money to a company to do THEIR JOB and it gets thrown back in my face. That's BS fellas I don't care how you look at it. But to each their own I guess. Like I said they won't hear from me again after they switch out my wheels. I just want it done and over with.

Definitely shop around as much as you can and you'll find what you're looking for. I found mine for $1200 blown up but with a spare motor that I could've used some parts off of. After that I tore it down to the bare frame and got stupid with it and currently have close to $4000 in it and just got my rolling chassis done a week ago. Shop around...

Because a company as big as Yamaha of Troy should check their parts before they ship them. I went through every Paypal transaction I'd had since 2005 and pinned them with it. I stiffly explained to them that had they sent me the correct wheels in the first place then neither of us would be in this situation. It was actually 2 years and 8 months after I found the exact transaction. They have a 30 day return policy but IMO that doesn't waive their responsibility to their mistakes. I didn't check the wheels because I just started seriously building my Banshee about 2 weeks ago. Before that it was a bare frame and about 8 boxes full of parts since I purchased it in May of '06. It was probably just a human error and that's fine, it happens. But where my problem lies is in the fact that they are trying to relay their mistake onto me because I haven't checked the bolt pattern before now. When I spend that kind of money on something like that I expect to bolt it on and go whether I'm putting it on immediately or 2 years and 8 months away. It is my fault that I waited this long to build it but I had several setbacks not allowing me to. On the contrary it is not my fault whatsoever that they shipped me a wrong wheel. I understand why they wouldn't want to take it back because it's been so long. I don't understand why they, or anyone else for that matter, would try to say that it's my fault for not checking them before now. I have learned one lesson though. Always check your stuff when you get it because consumer faith is a thing of the past. Quality sucks so bad now that you must check every aspect of your products as you receive them. To me that's the company's job. After I get my wheel taken care of Yamaha of Troy will never hear from me again.

Exactly, that's why I don't wanna put it in like it is. The one side is just barely over but the other is .010" over. Either way you look at it and no matter how you bend the truth they're both out of spec though. I'm not really looking for that much performance out of this thing. I just wanna make sure it's gonna be reliable no matter what I do with it. I guess I should've elaborated. It was a stock crank that I got from a part out and was supposed to be good to go except for outer bearings which as I stated I already had purchased. I'm just weighing the checks and balances right now whether it would be more cost effective to get another crank or have this one fixed. What does a rebuild run for something like that?

I bought a crank a couple of years ago that was supposed to be ready to use except I had to put outer bearings on it. No big deal as I'd already bought new ones anyway for my old crank. Started blueprinting my engine the other night and the left rod side clearance is .035" and the right side is .027" both of which are above maximum spec. What do you seasoned, experienced guys do for this? I want to make sure everything is kosher before I put it together and already I've ran into a problem with the very first piece of the puzzle. Talk to me...

Interested in shocks as well, I call dibs behind other member

9x9

To make a long story short I ordered my front T9 Baja wheels and Holeshot HDs as a package deal three and a half years ago and I'm just now putting my Banshee together. The place I bought them from phucked up on one of my front wheels. I got my rolling chassis done tonight only to discover that I have one front wheel that is 4/144 bolt pattern. I'm thoroughly pissed about it so if there's anyone in close contact with ITP or a dealer of ITP that is willing to work out a trade I need a correct wheel desperately. Thanks, Chris.

Nevermind I got it.

So it's just supposed to fit loose in there? None of the measurements fit except the seal and cover. Is the spacer even required?

The inside of the cover is appx. 41mm. The outside of the spacer is 38mm. The inside of the seal is 35mm. Can someone tell me how these are supposed to go together? The only things that fit correctly are the seal inside the cover. The measurements of the spacer leave it 3mm too big for the inside of the seal and 3mm too small for the inside of the cover so it's just flopping around in there. Help please?

Cool thanks guys. I didn't think of bikebandit. I use them quite a bit for my R1parts. I got my Clymer in by UPS today and I don't know why I didn't get one before. This thing blows the factory service manual away. Anyway, thanks again.

I've got everything finally to start putting mine together and was wondering about a tutorial or something on installing my swingarm. I'm mainly wondering about how the caps, seals, and spacers go on the sides of the pivot tube.

Well like I said I removed enough material from the inside of the slider to fit it onto the sleeve/collar and it's on there pretty tight. I've done a ton of searches on here and various other parts of the web and couldn't find anything on it that said to remove it. Hell even ModQuad couldn't or wouldn't tell me. I actually bought a new one today, $12 at local stealership, because the swingarm I purchased off of ebay a few years ago didn't have the sleeve/collar and the old swingarm I removed from it did. Apparently I just wasted $12 on a piece I didn't need.

I ended up leaving the sleeve on there FWIW. I had to take my Dremel and grind about .100 out of the inside of the slider so it would fit over the metal sleeve and even then it's on there really snug. I'll buy the T&M split slider from now on. That was bs having to make the ModQuad slider fit like that.

I understand that part but before I put the metal sleeve on the pivot tube the slider by itself was just a bit loose. After I put the new sleeve on and try to put the chain slider on it's like the I.D. of the slider is too small or the O.D. of the sleeve is too big. I was just needing to know if the sleeve stays on or if the slider goes onto the pivot tube by itself without the sleeve. Seeing as how it's a replacement kit it leads me to believe that the sleeve should stay on. I can't really see that part in your pictures.

I know this was someone else' thread but I'm needing help on a similar issue. I have a ModQuad slider to go on my stock swingarm and the stupid thing just doesn't want to fit. Does the metal sleeve on the pivot tube stay on or do you leave it off? I can't get it to fit without grinding or trying to remove some material. This chain slider and guide kit has given me nothing but nightmares since I bought it.

Payment sent for headlights. Thanks, Chris.

PM sent on headlights

Pics please to R1Rider31@hotmail.com

Where are you located?

BUMP, $60 shipped

I have one brand new ITP T9 Baja wheel for sale. I bought this for my Banshee and then ended up buying a complete set of wheels and tires so I have no need for this extra wheel. It is a 10x9 and 4/115 bolt pattern with 3+6 offset. It is brand new still in the plastic. Asking $80 shipped to anywhere in the contiguous 48 states.