jayzx10r

My RZ350 tach redline was at 9500 RPM.

After some discussion on this site, the overwhelming majority favored running 2 K&N gauze type oiled filters with an Outerwears sock over them for sand use. Read up!! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=84005

You guys missed his secret weapon. He's running a Boost Bottle...and not that girly generic one, but I bet it's a White Bros or some other top brand!! Poor guy...18k and still sporting stock front suspension, 7/8ths" bars, no lights or pegs, but it has a High Performance stock air box. :yelrotflmao: I would have sold him mine for $14,000!! :yelrotflmao: Jay From SanD.

Check out: http://www.tomshardware.com/ A GREAT site to compare components. or: http://www.overclockers.com/ Step by step instructions to......same with Tom's. or: http://www.hardocp.com/ Second favorite. But first, how fast is your internet connection?? http://www.speedtest.net/ My ping is 20ms and download at 9755 kb/s.

Boyesen makes 2 different RAD Valves with 2 different part numbers for 2 different applications. Part #RAD-36A is for more or less stockish motors. Part #RAD-36M This RAD Valve is recommended for modified Banshee engines. If I were buying reeds, I'd buy a set of the Boyesen Power Reeds. $57.00 shipped at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...1QQcmdZViewItem If I were buying reed cages, I'd roll with the V Force 3s. $194.00 shipped at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...7QQcmdZViewItem Personally, I've asked a couple of times if there is a power difference between the reeds and VF3s, and most say that there is no difference on mid-top, but it is more responsive on the low-mid. $135.00 difference in price, but who knows if it's worth it. I have the Power Reeds and I'm usually to the top of the hill first more than not!! But then again...I don't think I've raced against any of you BansheeHQers!! Hope this helps, Jay From SanD.

Just weld on a megaphone....works for the MotoGP guys.

I'm going to write a check and pay more taxes so: 1. I can contribute to offset the cost of Section 8 housing, 2. Pay for illegal aliens health care and education, 3. Pitch in to kill brown people that: ....A. Have not given their soul to jesus christ, a "savior" and, ....B. happen to live on top of long ago decayed plant materials that it is our right to take. 4. I can help those poor farmers and oil companies with their subsidies. I hope they will at least fix that damn pothole on my street this year!!

The last good one I saw was on a F4U Corsair. He had a cool radial radiator!!

I'll put in a vote for the pipe everyone likes to condemn....FMF Fattys. Great all around pipe that has better low end than most of 'em out there and has a pretty good top end too!! Inexpensive used and work great.... Probably the perfect pipe for how you ride. :thumbsup: The chrome is damn good too!!

I have a Brand New set of chrome T-5s , stingers, and silencers still in the Toomey box to trade for a like new condition set of chrome inframe small bore CPIs. I'm in San Diego and ready to go!! Thanks, Jay.

I guess you are SOL if you are on the West Coast. Anyone have a line on the cheapest (Leaded Preferred) around 100 octane race fuel in San Diego area? I have 165lbs as I kick it. I'm not even sure if I need anything more than the crappy 91 octane fuel we have here, but I've always mixed 50/50 pump premium with 100LL AVGAS. I'd prefer to just find a good higher octane fuel that wasn't $52 for 5 gallons!!

President's Day is on Monday the 18th of February and Valentines is on the Thursday, the 14th. So it looks like a nice, long 4 or 5 day weekend is coming up!!. We should make a meet up point now so we can get together. I'll start by saying we can meet at the Glamis store or the most South West point of the vendors at noon on Saturday and Sunday. Since we don't have a group flag, I was thinking maybe put 2 zip ties just under your flag for a BHQ ID?? Any ideas are welcome..... :thumbsup: Are you East Coast members making the trip again this year? Where are you gonna park or camp? I think I'm gonna hit one of the washes near the tracks...more RV friendly!! If you wanna get a group camp going, I'll go anywhere as long as there is someone around that can pull me out if I get stuck!! I think I need a set of haulers for my RV. :biggrin: Give a shout if you want to create a cell number base for this trip.... So...who is going??

So maybe put the more similar weighted parts directly across from each other... BAM!!! Done.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toomey-T5-B...1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Hyd...1QQcmdZViewItem This guy has a bunch of top rated Banshee parts listed on (Fe)eBay at NO RESERVE!! Cub motor, shocks, aftermarket radiator, shifter, Lonestar new axle....a lot of good looking stuff.

Pretty good turnout on this poll. More respondents from the East Coast than I expected. I always heard there was life East of the Colorado River!! J/K!! I thought there would be more West Coasters on this forum...

Maybe this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...Ntt=hose+covers Or this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?...p;searchbtn.y=0

I'm looking on Google Earth... So do you mean the dirt road West next to the tracks heading South or the zig-zag road on the East side of the tracks? I'm betting you are talking West Sieeed!! Where are the markers? What do they look like? Thanks Bansh. Jay.

Hope no one outbids me....

Where is wash 15-17? Down Gecko? I've only camped at the pad near the Glamis Store. I won't know if I'm going until Friday night.

Why run a bigger chain? The stock one was a 525. The GB520GXWs are made for 1000cc bikes and the GB530GXWs are made for 1400cc bikes. I ran a 520 on my '99 ZX9r and got over 15,000 miles out of it easily. I currently run a 520 on my ZX10r and have gone over 10,000 miles on that one. That sucker puts over 165HP to the ground when I crack it. You just have to run a premium chain. I'm using an RK GB520GXW...get one of these and you won't have any issues running a 520. the GB520EXW has nearly the same tensile strength for probably a few bucks less, but you might as well buy the best you can!! What year motor are you running? Are you familiar with the ram air system those carbs are set up for? Just remember that the float bowels are supposed to be pressurized, so if you plug them you will have a crappy running motor that will have you scratching your head trying to figure out what the problem is!! That will be a fun ride...about 125HP. Nice powerband too!!

Me 2, you can't beat that Shell Rotella T Synthetic Gallon for $16.50 at Wal*Mart!! You gotta love 'em: Everyday low wages.... :shoothead: Seriously, I use the 2R myself @32/1. I use the Rotella T Synthetic in everything I own...truck, car, RV, ZX10r, Banshee, Blaster, YZ250, lawnmower.... :geek:

Forgot to add pic of mine....

I think if you are porting a cylinder for better flow, you have to do up the piston as well, since this is the bottleneck between carburetor and ignition point after porting, reeding, and going large on the carb. Feel free to opinionate. I basically keep the same shape piston ports, including radiuses, but make them wider and extend the piston port down as well. Same with the skirt ports, except I raise the port wall a bit there. you do NOT want to only be left with a thin piece between the piston port and the skirt port. This material is important to the structural integrity of the skirt. Overall, I make them wider by widening away from center. The thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to remove any skirt material from the area directly perpendicular to the piston pin, because of the wear caused by piston rocking. Just to make sure I'm clear on this...if we consider the piston pin to be at the 90 and 270 degree position, then the portion of the piston skirt area I'm referring to would be at the 180 and 360 degree points...the zero point The farther you are from this point(s) of zero , the more material you can safely remove--strictly limiting this statement to the issue of piston rocking force in the bore. I narrow the bridge between ports on the piston a bit (not too much, you don't want to create a potential hot spot). Then I lower the port and raise the skirt port a bit. Then I widen the outer sides of the ports and bevel (angle cut) the outer port piston wall so it looks straight when looking at it from the intake port from the reed cage. I square up the radiuses a little, but still retain a nice, smooth radius. I think the most important part of all this is to get a nice radius on the inside of the piston where the ports pop through. I try to reduce turbulence as much as possible while removing a minimum amount of material. I use sand paper to clean up my tooling marks. Things to keep in mind: You can't perfectly match the piston to the port because your piston will probably fail at high RPM use...only remove what appears reasonable while retaining structural integrity. The farther you are from the 180/360 zero degree point, the lower the force from the rod induced piston rocking the piston feels, so you can remove more material relative to the zero point. You need to remove the same amount of material from each piston because you want the same amount of flow/power in each cylinder. They don't have to mirror each other, but they need to have the same flow characteristics if you have to "individualize" a piston to match up a porting issue.. Smoothing out rough edges is of utmost importance. Ask yourself, what design or shape would running water prefer? I'm not a hippie, but what would nature do in this circumstance? I was thinking that I'll port my next piston set sorta oval...what I'll call a D cut, to look like two back to back D's. My intake ports are pretty wide. It would be interesting to see a dyno difference these mods would make... Jay in SanD...at home, riding on meds....un :cool:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-ove...1QQcmdZViewItem Right now it is $225. Looks pretty good. Here is the description: this is a pwr oversized radiator. in like new condition i used it maybe only 10 hours. it did make a 35 degree temp difference on my stroker engine. so it is well worth the money for them. i paid 450.00 new for this im starting the bid at 150.00 and buyitnow for 325.00. buyer pays actual shipping for this item. i dont ad handling fees. what it cost to ship is what it cost you. thanks for looking at my aution ken.