jayzx10r

So what has changed in water pump seal design or radiator hose material that necessitates an antifreeze with a lubricant? The formula used today is basically the one developed and used since 1948...it hasn't changed much since then. (It was actually first developed in 1859) So my question again...it was used through the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, and still now. Why do we now need anti-freeze/boil with a lubricant? I'm bored...I should be out riding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Factory-Yam...1QQcmdZViewItem Don't forget to add $52.08 for shipping....

Last year I got my 28' Fleetwood class A RV (10,200lbs empty) stuck in the sand at Glames. This dude rolls up in his Ranger and asks if I'd like a pull. I laughed...but he had a tow strap and offered up a cold beer so I was all for it. I had been digging... I was AMAZED to watch this dinky little 4-wheel drive easily pull me out. I watched him yank out 4 or 5 other people that day. Left me scratching my head feeling like I had just witnessed someone breaking a law of physics... :ermm:

Did the manufacturer (RS) put an identifying mark on your flywheel? Since I bought my quad used, it has some aftermarket parts on it from the previous owner. How can you visually tell the difference between the stocker and the RS flywheel? I have the RS 200W stator but didn't see one of the voltage regulator RS sells on their site. Do I need one of these? Thanks Man, Jay.

I respect your opinion and experience. I have no experience with the new gen anti-freezes. I just wanted to point out that my 18 year old truck has a clean cooling system, original hoses, and original water pump. That being said, I think I'll change my hoses soon...maybe '09!! :yelrotflmao: Toyota makes a helluva truck...... Jay From SanD.

Has anyone installed a Ricky Stator Flywheel? Did it make a difference to the brightness of your lights? Is there a way to identify one compared to a stock flywheel? I'm thinking I'd like more than 200watts. Any recommendations on another brand of higher output stator? Thanks, Jay.

Even though I have Engine Ice in my ZX10r and Banshee, I run good ol' Prestone (the green stuff) in my truck. My '89 Toyota still has the stock radiator, hoses, and water pump. Dude...1989....and still going strong!! I thought the newer Red whiz bang antifreeze was a 100,000 mile coolant..... And to answer the original post: The primary reason for running distilled water is to use a medium that has minimal minerals in it....unlike regular tap water. Minerals will clog your radiator cooling tubes and coat the inside, resulting in crappy heat transfer. Some bottle water companies actually ADD minerals for an improved taste. If you have no choice, filtered water is better than tap, unless the water where you live is extremely "soft." You can usually buy a bottle of Distilled water in the same isle where the bottled spring water is found. Our water in San Diego is so hard, soap doesn't sud and if you don't dry your car...it can etch the glass/paint!! The red stuff may be better long term, but it probably doesn't really matter in your 'shee. The most important thing is NO MINERALS!!! :cool: Jay From Sand.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-rea...1QQcmdZViewItem

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Thanks for the Dyno runs. Can you do a stock timing run next to a +4 degree run? I'd be interested to see that one!! I don't have an adjustable advance timing plate...people keep telling me how much I'm missing....maybe the only thing I'm missing a Hpower loss!! Thanks man, Jay From SanD.

I think it depends on which version Silverado you have. Looking online, the 1500 has a Max towing capacity of 8800 lbs and your motor makes 285HP. The Carson website shows a 20' and a 22' model this year. 4,900 and 5,100 lbs dry, 800lb tongue weight, and 7,000 max loaded weight. They also offer an "ultralite" model that is 36-3800lbs. Different models depending on floor plan. Here is a link to their site: http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/brochures.html I'd say you can do it but the climb coming back to San Diego is a bitch!! 3800 feet in 12 miles. I always get motored up the hill by the new generation High Output Chipped Diesels that are getting 16MPG to my 7 or 8MPG..... :yelrotflmao: But I really don't care because if I were in a hurry, I'd be somewhere else!! :yelrotflmao:

You can end the auction early...LINK: http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/questions/endlist-now.html

If you have rims, Fun Bike Center has a set of 21x7x10 Mohawk copies for $35.00 each. Otherwise, if you want to order a set from RMATV, I have a 10% off coupon I'm gonna use this week if you want to save a few bucks. You can piggyback your order onto mine....free shipping and no tax!! :thumbsup: Sweet!!

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Make that Earl's Performance Products.

I picked up an inexpensive line at Earl's supply, cut it to length, then put my own screw on hose end. They sell these at Earl's Supply or most speed/motorcycle performance shops. You just wrap the hose with tape, cut it to length, (I used a high speed cutting wheel grinder) slide the nut over the braided line, peel back and flare a bit of the s/s cover, insert the ferrel, slide the crimping barrel over the exposed teflon tube, insert the hose end into the hose, and tighten the nut. Viola!! An Easy Fix. I think it was $5.00 for the end...I picked the donor hose from their pile of miscut lines that had 1 good end for $5.00 too!! I got my $10.00 line :cool: http://www.holley.com/600743ERL.asp

I used to own a RG500...I had the fastest bike in Hollywood at the time!! It was faster than my friends RZ500. Pretty cool spitting out smoke out of 4 pipes......Memories :cool: :cool: Anyhow, I believe the Yamaha engine has a similar crank configuration as the Suzuki, but a different cylinder layout. The RZ is a twin crank "V" while the RG is a "square 4" design utilizing 2 cranks driven together. The Yamaha had reed induction while the RG was a rotary valve. From an RZ500 site: "With it's twin cranks, the engine actually functions as a pair of 180-degree parallel twins geared together." Custom exhaust costs were the limiting factor on those 4 cylinder 2-strokes. As much as I wanted to change out the exhaust on my RG, I didn't want to drop 2k on exhaust. At the time, I was running Spec IIs on my RZ350. Kinda miss my "mosquito killer".... Jay From SanD.

I had to replace my original tires because they had some surface cracks and one started leaking air. I think the previous owner stored them outside and flat, they looked kinda scary. I tried running a tube but had to learn on my own that when you drop pressure to where you want it to be for optimum traction, the tire shifts on the rim...ripping out the valve stem. :: Sweet. Like I said...I'd have used what I had been sold if it weren't for the Tech guy at Skat-Trak informing me that they were waaaaayyy outside of acceptable spec, making them NFG.

I am electrically inept. :biggrin: I've found I make a GREAT electrical current pathway to direct ground!! That being said, I was wondering if an upgraded stator setup uses more engine HP when used at the same electrical requirement level as an OEM setup. For instance...picking an arbitrary number only for sake of discussion... if the parasitic HP loss using a stock stator to drive stock headlights (call it a 70 watt load) at 6000RPM was 5HP, would one incur the same HP loss to drive a 250 watt stator under the same load and RPM? What if you added one of the Ricky Stator flywheels that have "stronger magnets" and were operating with the same variables as the test question? Would it take more HP to run on the stock stator and/or the aftermarket stator under the same load? Are these flywheels worth buying...or is it a gimmick? Obviously the generator will require more power relative to the demand placed upon it, so i know that driving a pair of 75watt lights (150 watt combined) will take more HP to generate the required power. Just kinda wondering if you incur a HP penalty at all times because you have a higher capacity stator. Thanks, Jay. BTW: I still have to figure out if I have an aftermarket stator. If not, I have seen offerings from Moose, Electrex, and Ricky Stator. I've read postings on the RS, anyone have an opinion on the others? Should I get the RS Flywheel and the additional regulator as well?

The Drama Continues.... First, let me state that RMATV has GREAT customer service and I will be a returning customer in the future.... I don't blame them for any of this. That being said, my replacement set of tires were nearly as bad.... On this set, one tire has cups that appear to have had some casting issues. They look like the molds were unclean when they cast the cups before they were glued on. Picture this: when you peel away the paper from a cupcake...some cake sticks to the paper and there is a coarse, rough, irregular coating of cake on some parts of the paper, and some places where the caked didn't stick---That is how the cups looked on this tire!! It most probably would function fine, but as people spend thousands of dollars on appearance

I decided to search the world for the best deal on a set of Outerwears...(the internet is a great thing) and found them for $13fiddy each--with free shipping!! :thumbsup: Turns out that a shop 10 miles from me has them....Kinda Ironic. Like when I joined the Navy to see the world....and got stationed 14 miles from home!! Should have them by Thursday. for the input, everyone!! Jay From SanD.

Still looking for one local in San Diego or pick up at Glamis 26-26 October. I'm gonna use it on my '03 Blaster.

I'm in the mood for some new tires and only ride in SoCal Dunes. Primarily for Dragging because I bring a set of Sand Skate IIs to Dune on and just switch them out. I was gonna go with 8 paddle but I thought I'd ask.....What would You Choose?? Mods listed in my sig...running 14/41. I'm like...185lbs nekked. , Jay.

Let me add my $.02. Even though I run Lonestar +2+1s, the end result should be the same between our different brands of arms. When I stand in front of the wheel facing the the back of my "shee, I look straight down at the suspension and see that the upper ball joint is more rearward relative to the lower ball joint. I'm thinking that if you had it the other way, steering wouldn't return to center when you let go of the bars... You will need one of these to adjust your front end. Angle Finder $5.99 at Harbor Freight. There is one on Main St, El Cajon...near your place. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=34214 Here is a link to the Lonestar adjustment page. If you have a +2+1 setup, the spec should be relevant. If not, the description of terms will still be valid. http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf Hope this helps you out...you gotta have that gauge!! Jay.