RagunCajun

Thank you guys for the help. Speaking of anti seize, should i put some on my axle splines? It's been a good 4 years since i installed my axle but i'm taking it down to be powder coated and get the little bit of rust off. What's the best method to decide if something gets anti seize or lock-tite?

someone gets it.

Have some good pictures of it installed sir?

has anyone tried the stainless polished bolt set off ebay? Here's a link, hope it works: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-YFZ350-BANSHEE-POLISHED-STAINLESS-STEEL-ATV-BOLT-KIT-/131012372078?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e80f2266e&vxp=mtr I'm tearing down my entire bike and im tired of rusty bolts, time to do it right with stainless. I just want a good bolt kit. Also when i order some +3+1 a-arms, do a-arms come with new bolts/nuts?

Crash ryan with another 10mil build. Seems about 3-5 years ago 4 was going big for a non drag only bike.

The curves are most important to me. Not so much the numbers. Seeing them over lapped can help me chose the one id like if I were doing a build like that.

Im going to have my new builder inspect my trans and wet side under the cover. Ill keep using cheap sstuf if its all good. I dont mind using expemsive stuff but not if its a waste.

Thanks john. I have worn out 3'S. Im just going to go ahead as planned and buy new vf4 reeds for my super serval build. I love a crisp throttle so thats icing on the cake.

Why do drag guys love the 2's ?

Atf type f in mine. Breaks down fast so I changed it often. Whoever cut the over ride should tell you what fluid to run.

between this thread and the one in thumper talk's 2 stroke dirtbike section, ive seen tons of "updates"s from that company. They are delaying the ever living hell out of them carbs.

methonal is an alternative fuel that runs cooler and makes more power. However he engine will use more fuel compared to gas giving you a lot worse fuel economy assuming both set up are tuned correctly. It also uses modified carbs like alcohol i think. He was being a smart ass. Ignore that post. People tend to do that here. It's sad and confuses new guys.

The set up may be considered half assed but not the motor. The motor may be a solid animal but due to chassis set up, driver and/or trans it could still leave some e/t on the table. Sometimes, the owner of the bike is content with that and built like that on purpose. Nothing wrong with that. You could say if it has drag cylinders like a cub, the bike needs an override. period. but many will disagree. Same can be said for AV gas. Sometimes you may be something and get higher compression than intended and due to riding a lot, AV gas is cheaper than getting race fuel.

Your guy porting the engine will go into everything said in post 15 above this one in a lot of detail. He can also explain how everything will work together to get the most out of your set up. It's amazing how some motors run so well and when you look at them, it's a stock cylinder/head bike. If he cant answer those questions, go to another shop. He will also be able to tell you a good place to put your jetting at to start retuning it once it's ported.

check the crank for excessive play, maybe get it trued and welded. Maybe hone the cylinders if needed. You can do other basic maintenance while it's down. The the price of a crank, engine seal kit and cooling head(or spacer plate) you can do a 4mil stroker set up. The sky is the limit though. I think a port job will be all you need for now.

What color scheme you going with sir?

You dont polish the heads like on 4 stroke engines. People polish stuff on banshees because they like shiney shiney blingy bling.

as said porting your stock cylinder is the best bang for the buck. Once you start making some serious hp, you may have issues with the clutch holding and/or the trans shifting. I highly doubt youll achieve that with your average play port on stock cylinders though. For a durable finish on a frame, powder coat it. I painted mine and it held up decent but never again. I went talk to my local powder coater sunday to decide on colors for my build i started

Thumb throttle for 60 shipped?

Agreed. That's why I asked:)

Now is it bike set up and/or rider or the motor makes more power when claiming the quickest.

No problem. It's awesome when a stock stroke bike beats a stroked bike too

I'm gonna ignore your tires right now and recommend some pro wedge 2 tires and 15/41 gearing. youll only need 5th to do it considering you have enough power(60-70hp). The tires grow and they are a light combo with light wheels. It works good for dirt/grass drag racing here. edit*, just seen your mods. Nevermind the above comment in this post. You dont have the power to pull what i recommended. My bike did 72 with bolt ons and t6's on 19" hole shots. So maybe 14/40 gearing may get you there easiest. Without adding power, gearing for more mph will make you less quick in a short drag race. Acceleration/traction wins usually unless you do some long long races.

Competing in a certain class OP? Just curious why you keeping it stock stroke.

here's a link to the pan cake bearing http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=267