Barrymaxx

Ive ridden shamokin before, its so much fun. I may come, but ill just be there to ride. I beleive that it is reading anthracite land.... I dont have a pass yet, but i deffinitly want to get one.

Oh shit, everyone run for cover!

I am a beleiver in flipped rims. Yamaha balljoints are tough as hell. I jumped my blaster high enough to break 2 shocks, and rolled it good enough to bent 2 spindles. After years, the balljoints are still tight.

I ran my blaster with flipps also. Since I bought it. Never a problem. I didnt have alot of bumpsteer. Now on my 400 I have flipped rims, and a stabilizer. Works fine. A-arms are the best way though

I ride in the poconos. I would feel akward riding with michael jackson though... :ermm:

What all are you going to strip from it? Id be intrested in whats left...

At home i have everything. When i ride i bring lots of tools with in the truck. When im on the trails i carry a back pack with wrenches screwdrivers, zipties, sockets, just some common things. I have a tow rope in my front bumper and 8 ounces of oil under the seat just incase i have to borrow strait gas. I had a spare motor that i was going to bring with on long trips, but i sold it on ebay.

Well, im not expert with frame and suspension geometry, but I do know a few things. First, the front frame rails of the 250r, where the arms mount up, is relativly narrow. I mean that the arms mount close to the center line of the frame. In return, this offers less bump steer, and over all better handling. Another thing you will notice is the lengthy apearence of the R. It uses a long chassis with the front suspension far forward. Its motor is mounted towards the swingarm pivot point with plenty of room up front. Also, its swingarm length and alngle effects the way ii handles and hooks up. Theres a load of factors that determine how a quad will handle..

Shee and blaster work. Thats all i can guarentee.

I make my own grab bars. I made mine out of 1x1 angle iron for the sides, then welded a peice of pipe between them so it still feels nice on your hands. It takes a beating, but WILL bend before your subframe does, thats a good thing.

Does anyone have a link to these tires?

No offence to anyone but how can anyones bike look nicer then yours?

^^^ The 700 and the yfz share parts. The 660 is a totally diffrent animal

You can take him. If your a good launcher you will get it most of the time. I race a 125 with my blaster and from 1-3rd gear he only has me by like 2 lenths. Then its all downhill after that. But banshees have much more power then i have and not too much more weight so id say you could do it.

In a straight line cpi inframes w/o a doubt. Trails toomey t5's are nice, ive never tried the t6's

I have a full set of symbols off a plymouth acclaim lol. Also have a caddy symbol.

Hatfeild/lansdale. Not far from souderton. Do you guys ride the roads when it snows? we could met half way or somthin.

I have a craftsman. Its depressing because even with a new topend, your lucky to get 110. But i got a new one so its all good.

Im not sure about the HD's but razrs last alot longer then the holeshots do. There very puncture resistant too.

I start with 100 grit paper then move to 220 grit. Just rub in a circular motion and your good. J/K :thumbsup:

I think lonestars are pretty sweet. Im not sure if there yama pattern tho, i dont know anything about them.

Ditto.

Sounds like a bent shock shaft to me. Its internally binding. I can almost guarentee thats the prob. It Could be the arms if a balljoint if it is really bad though

they look sick. I guess they give you the 10 grade so the bar bends before the bolts snap into the frame. It looks pretty tough, looks machined out of 1/4inch billit.

One thing I find with the banshees and blasters is that basic mods dont add much value, and dont take away much either. A piped blaster might go for 1300 and the same bike w/ a stock pipe mihgt go for 1250. But you can now ebay that pipe for 100 to 150. A little more work but you can make a few extra bucks.