ziegman

pro flow adapter, k&n filter, k&n filter lid. You get dual filtration plus k&n air flow. And the box is still there to keep mud sand dirt and water off main filter.

Actually I have no interest in the carbs. That bike ran like a bat out of hell with the stock carbs on it. I didnt see the need for 34s on a stock stroke stock port bike. I run 300 mains in my stock carbs, he is in the same area, same elevation, same basic setup. So 300s in 34s could lead to a lean condition on top end since he is flowing more air. He stated he was going to sell it so I suggested going back to the stock carbs. He probably wont net anything more with the 34s on it. Keep them and sell seperately.

make sure the slides are not in backwards

More like 50. Porting will get you mid 60s. Biggercarbs would get you in 70s after porting.

Exactly, I used to ride a yz490. When I ran yamalube if I didnt replace a piston and rebore every 3 months then it popped a skirt and foulded a plug about every 4 hours riding time. Switched to spectro, plugs would last a whole weekend and pistons about a year, switched to dominator and have never had to replace a piston or a plug the last 3 years I had it.

The same place you bought your powerbands from.

If it gets too hot and you have carbon build up it can ignite the fuel mixture. Usually caused by an air leak or running too lean.

Amsoil Interceptor

use a prodesign plate with k&n filter and a k&n lid on the box. double filtration and full flow. best of both worlds

jeff also has the carb sync tool

the tors kit should have come with idle screws and a drill and tap. If not call jeff at fast he has the drill tap screw set. Also if you run in mud then keep the stock air box, mount a k@n filter inside with a pro flow plate and add a k@n lid. It provides double k@n filtration, keeps the mud off the inside filter and flows as good as pods.

1. use the stock airbox, it directs air into the box as mentioned in this post. 2. use a k@n filter on a pro flow adapter. 3. use a k@n lid on the box this provides double k@n filtration and flows the same as pods but provides the better low end that the air box provides due to directing the air into the box. i had pods on mine when I bought it and switched to this setup and the dyno shows the same top end and midrange but better lowend. (only by 1 hp though)

No ,You can get carbon buildup at 40 to 1 or richer. carbon build up comes from running too much oil. 100 to 1 is 100 parts fuel to 1 part oil.

I run 100 octane at 181 psi

These kind of posts are hilarious. Are you running black or pink powerbands?

I have used it for years, best oil on the market period. Lubricates great and doesnt foul plugs. Be sure to run it at 50 to 1 as amsoil says or you will have carbon build up. Dominator and Interceptor use Polyalphaolefins as their base stock, search the net for Polyalphaolefin info and you will see that people that claim Amsoil is crap or that they are afraid to run oil that lean are just uneducated about the properties of oil. I have even see engine builders spout off about their opinion on oil, they may be able to repair and modify engines but they are not oil analysis experts.

03 limited ed came in red/black and neon yellow/black. I have the yellow black limited.

octane supreme 130 contains tetraethyl lead. Thats what I use. Been running it since jan 07 181 psi per cyl 93 octane unleaded with 3oz per gallon. works great. any other octane booster seemed to be all hype, like dajogejr said I wouldnt trust them.

Make sure slides are not in backwards

Check the throttle cable, then check for trash between the needle valve and seat

Make sure the slides are not in backwards

I call mine hell bitch. :cool:

Sorry...I know this is an old thread, but oil type shouldn't matter when it comes to fouling plugs. Too much fuel/air does.... Sorry but if you had everran a yz 490 you would know what i am talking about. That is the only bike I have ever had that problem with and many other 490 owners have had the same problem. I guess this blows your theory also The other reason it is so clean is that AMSOIL chooses to use ashless technology as opposed to a lot of other companies that use ash-containing formulations. Ash-containing products are dirtier than ashless. This may seem rather obvious, but most companies use ash-containing additives because they are about one-third the cost of ash-less additives. This is true even with competitors

are your slides in backwards? I had similar results as yours, that was the problem.

Amsoil makes 2 different oils for atv use, dominator and interceptor, both are recommended at 50:1 ratio. Dont be afraid of that 50:1 ratio, just checked my shee last weekend, the tolerances are the same as when I rebuilt it january 07. It has had two summers here in fort worth area, along with being ridden in the snow, rattlesnake weekend 07 at little sahara ( snow on the dunes that friday) along with countless other trips. Checked out at 180psi per side, exactly as it was when the top end was fresh. I have used it for years and will never change unless they go out of business. However if what you have is not dominator or interceptor then be careful, the other 2 stroke oils they make are for outboards and small power equipt.