atvfreestylekid

So should I run the interceptor instead of the hp injector? The hp injector is a tc-3w.

Would it hurt to do even 4 or 5 heat cycles? Because when it comes to my quads, and working on them, I've got nothing but time. Also, would it hurt to brek it in on dominator oil then swich to intercepter? Reason I'm asking is I have a friend who is an amsoil dealer and stocks dominator and is having to order the intercepter. Amsoil says that intercepter is betther for atv's than dominator. amsoil 2-cycle oil recomendation chart What do you think about running TC-3W oils? I'd like to use the hp injector oil because I can get it for next to nothing. And it says it is good for non-powervalve atv's at 50:1. I'd mix it at 32:1 though.

thanks guys. So if I will be running 32:1 pre-mix, should I mix it at 24:1 for break in? or is 32:1 rich enough? I'll be using either amsoil interceter or amsoil hp injector.

I just installed a hot rods stroker with wiseco795 pistons. What is the best way to break it in?

You said it. It's just too hot down here :sad: . It snows like one day a year and only stays a few hrs. But when it does snow, I'm like a little kid in a candy store. Haullin ass to get the key to the shee so I can go roost some snow and drift around. BTW, nice cover. How does the quality of the stiching around the graphics look? Was looking into one of those on ebay right before the shee blew up.

Here is the hp injector amsoil hp invector

That is what I was wanting to hear. Thanks. Okay, I don't think i'll use the dominator because I heard it is a castor oil and does not burn clean. And since gas does not burn clean either, It's better to go with a cleaner burning oil. So the dominator is more for alcohol, which burns clean. Is this true? But the intercepter is like a 70/30 mix of castor and synthetic. right? And the injector is a 100% synthetic. So I'm leaning to the injector. That is if the whole "clean burning" thing is true. Plus the injector is a lot cheaper. I figured since it had the amsoil name and good for 50:1 ratio, if i mix it at 32:1, my ride would last a while. but if the intercepter is better, I'll go with it. Thanks again for the opinions. :biggrin:

I am swiching to amsoil because my friend who owns a lawnmower repair shop happens to be an amsoil dealer. What amsoil pre mix would be best? I was thinking HPI HP Injector Oil at 32:1. my shee is a non-ported stroker if that makes any diference. The site says it is good for injection and 50:1 pre mix. Idk what to use in the trans either. what oil should I use in it? Thanks -Josh

The bearings are going to be froze and not going to come off easy. When I replace the bearings in mine, I do this. You need a block of wood, no thinner than a 2x4 (4x4 is better). Remove the left hub and jam nuts on the axle. Then un-bolt the carrier from the swingarm. once it's off, put the nut back on the axle, hold it straight up and drop it hard on the block of wood a few times. I like to leave the right tire on the axle to give me somthing to get a good grip on. After about 4 hard smacks, the carrier, bearings, and sprocket should slide right off. Without any damage to anything. Then just clean up the axle and slide it in the new carrier. Hope this helps. :biggrin:

Strokers are fairly easy to install. I just dropped one in my shee. I'm still waiting on a flywheel so I have not had a chance to run it yet. To install a standerd hot rods +4 stroke + 5 rod, you will have to have a stroker crank, spacer to go under the cylinders, special pistons with the wrist pin moved up 5mm(wiseco 795), gasket set, yamabond/hondabond to seal the case back up, about 5 cans of carb cleaner to clean all the motor parts, it's best to also have the cylinders bored. as far as tools, all you need is a socket set, screwdrivers, a flywheel puller, inch lbs torque wrench. I might be forgetting something but I think that is just about it.

I need a stock flywheel. If you have one, let me know. Thanks -Josh

I need a flywheel and kicker. Got these? Give me a price shipped to 76070. The kicker can rattle it's ass of for all I care. I just need a cheap kicker. I've already spent $700 on this rebuild. So money is kinda tight :sad: . thanks -josh

I went ahead and just bought a new motion pro cable. Thanks though. still need flywheel and kicker.

Keep your foot out of it :biggrin: .

Oh, ok. I was afraid I needed to install somthing before I sealed the case up. Thanks. So is the only vent the little white nipple at the back of the motor?

I need a stock flywheel, a kicker(billet if cheap enough) I don't care if it is a noisy clinging sob. I just need a cheap one. I also need a clutch cable. I'll prolly just buy a new cable but if someone has a real good condition used one, will consider. A new cable that someone has for a spare would be great. Open to any deals. Thanks. -Josh

Well, I just recently installed a new crankshaft and do not remember what these two holes in the top half of my cases are for. I think they are vents. Is there just a hose that sticks down in them? Thanks -Josh

Man that's cheap!!! I gave $3,500 for my white brothers boost bottle. But it came with a free 99 piped shee :biggrin: .

How did you get those babies shined up like that?

Give this a try :biggrin: :thumbsup: http://bikepics.com/pictures/239305/ I'm going to have my art teacher draw the flames on my fenders so I can cut them.

The shop sold me some hondabond 4 that I used for my case. The top end still needs to be installed so I have not started the shee up yet. I guess I'll know if hondabond is worth a shit or not when I get it all put back together.

16 from texas. Ben a proud shee owner since 14 :thumbsup:

I need a cheap flywheel and a cheap kicker.

still got the flywheel?

Also need both carb joints and stock crossover tube