atvfreestylekid

I plan on going to mx tracks just to play around. My friend has a yfz that has long travel suspension on it so I can get the stockers. What all is needed to do the swap? I understand it will sit lower but I have seen how DDQ runs his shee on mx tracks with the yfz front end. So I think it will work just fine for me. Becides, It's free. Do I need anything other than arms and shocks? I asume i'll have to have longer tie-rods.

I want the head. Money order will be sent out tomorrow.

Mine pulled the same thing. It turned out the fuel level was too high. Lower the fuel level and see if it runs better.

Awesome. when you say a set, is it the big gear and the little one or just two big gears? What condition are they in? I know they are in good shape but it's a habit to ask :thumbsup: . definently interested. Send me a pm. With all info including paypal, etc. Thanks

Thanks but i'm going to have to ruin the basket in order to put the gear on my billet basket. So I'm going to let somone else that needs a cheap basket and clutch have a chance. thanks though. I just hate to ruin a good clutch for just one gear.

I race for ATVCCS down here in texas and to be true with you, a banshee is not the best choice for X/C. But with enough mods, anything can be used. Mine is still mostly stock as far as suspension. Suspension is the main thing you need in x/c racing. I can keep up with the 450's but it is hard. Real hard. Even stock 450's have much better suspension and can fly through the trails easier. I think some long travel front suspension is pretty much a must in x/c. I think if you go with some long travel, pipes for low end, nerfs, full skids, steering stabilizer, and some fasst flex handlebars, you will be in good shape if it's nothing like the GNCC or somthing big like that. My next mod will be some fasst flex bars. My friend's yfz has them and it is sooooo much easier on you when it get's real bumpy. But a 450 would be an easier way to go. unless the shee has a lot of suspension mods. It is not impossible to race the banshee. I enjoy being the only banshee/2-stroke out there on the track. It shows true skill if you can take a stock suspensioned 20 year old 2-stroke and keep up with the new 450 4-strokes with long travel and elkas all the way around in tight & twisty trails. I grew up on 2-strokes and I'm going to keep riding them until they stop making top-ends and 2-stroke oil. It's your choice. Whatever quad you are comfortable on. But stock for stock, a 450 will be easier and faster through the trails. Just my 2 cents. -Josh( #199)

I need this gear but unfortunately yamaha does not sell this gear alone. I'm not paying $170 for the gears and basket when I have a billet basket on it now.I'm hoping that somone out there has switched to straight cut gears and still have the old ones. So if you do, let me know. I need it pretty soon since I race X/C. Or if somone has the whole gears and basket with a trashed basket or somthing. Thanks -Josh

Thanks. That's what I figured but I don't trust my own judgment most of the time. I'll take a dremel and clean up the edges where the piece broke off. By the way, this is a dumb question but is that broken bolt the reason it would not shift? I mean I don't see how it would effect the little fingers that grab the pins on the shift star. But it is there for a reason. I just don't know what reason yet. thanks again.

I was at an X/C race last weekend and 3/4 the way throught the second lap, my shee quit wanting to shift and the shifter felt real loose. So I babied it to camp and the motor locked up died right before i got there. Got it back to camp and took the clutch cover off and found the flat head bolt that I guess keeps the shift shaft from moving too far up or down was broke in half. The nut that locks the bolt was wedged in between the clutch basket and the big gear on the clutch. the only damage that I can see that the nut caused wat it broke a ece of the clutch cover off on the inside. It's the lip that runs under the clutch. Can the cover be used still? I thought about using JB weld but it figred it would be realy nasty if the JB weld came off and got between gears somwhere.

The reason I'm asking is there is no pressure in the rezys. What do i need to put in them? and where do I get it? I have a race on the 20th and realy need to get these set up right by then. Do They have to have pressure in them? Thanks -Josh

I just installed a set of yfz shocks on the shee and trying to get it all tuned right. Do I use an air compressor on the bottom of the shock rezys or is it for somthing other than air?

Anybody? Also, my tranny seems to make a bit of noise. I don't remember if it made this much noise before or not. It sat for like 5 months during my stroker re-build. Are banshees noisy in the tranny? it's not a grinding or anything, i just can hear the gears spinning.

Nobody speaks english around here anymore... And I'm sick of it :mad:

Ok. I just installed a 4 mill stroker and now my clutch slips. It has a completely new clutch(minus the pressure plate). I found some springs on rockymountainatv.com that I am about to buy. The thing is they are only 10% stiffer than stock. Is this how stiff most hd springs are? I figured they would be alot stiffer. Also, you think i will need to run just 3 or all 6?

I noticed a little boost on the bottom end. I think it will be much, much beter with porting. But it won't hurt anything with the spacer mod.

Easy-off oven cleaner is the best way to do it. It works great. I did it to all of my blue aluminum parts on my rc trucks. anodizing is so easy to scratch. I hate it. Looks great until somthing bumps it. Anyway, just go to walmart and get some easy off for like $4. Just don't leave it on the metal too long or it may burn it. But it takes a while to do that. once the easy off is on it, you will see the anodizing start to come off, just wipe the stuff off. works great

It will sound kinda shitty and run worse without packing. I don't think it will hurt anything but it won't run as good. Removing the packing will make it louder but mon't make it"sound good". Remove the airbox lid and it will sound different too. You will actualy gain power if you remove it. re-jetting is needed though. I just took the lid off of mine and it gives it a deeper sound because you can hear it sucking in air. I don't know how it sounds to somone not on the bike but it sounds pretty good when your riding it. other people prolly can't hear it.

My 4-mill does the same thing also. Let me guess,when you try to start it you have to hold the throttle wide open? then after 30 kicks it barely runs at wot for a few seconds, smoking like a train?

Yes I neeed it. pm sent.

All you have to have it Wiseco 795 pistons, stroker spacer plate, and the crank you already have. You won't see much with just the crank. I say do the spacer for now and the on your next re-build, spend the big bucks on porting and head mods.

That arm is exactly what mine looks like. I'm splitting the case this weekend. Should be put back together by Sun. Just gotta get another arm. Already got the rod, ball, and a cascade clutch adjuster w/pancake bearing. Thanks for all the help guys. So much for my X/C race next weekend. :sad: Can I grind down that arm and re use it if my new one does not come in before the race? Or will it fuck somthing up? I figure i would just need to tighten the adjuster bolt on the pressure plate. But IDK. May call jeff after school today.

Well, I had the dreaded ball weld it's self to the rod. now it won't come out. it moves freely as I can stick a screwdriver up againsed it and pull the clutch lever and it moves easily. Just won't come out. I've tried a magnet and one of those jaw grabber tool. the jaws will grab it but the rod just only slide so far. Any ideas on getting it out? thanks -Josh

Damn that cutlass is nice. I'll never sell this car. I don't trust anyone else to take care of it. To most it's an ugly piece of shit because it does not have a/c, power steerning, didgital guages, or smooth riding suspensin. I'm looking for another tranny for it. Whoever had the car before me did a verry shitty job on the build of the car. I saved it from becoming a drag car. It would have ended up in a thousand pices at the end of a drag strip one day if I didn't buy it. gave $2,000 for her. The thought that I saved it was worth it to me. I think more should ditch the BMW's and shit and drive a classic. My mom keeps asking me if I want a new chevy truck because they are real cheap for a basic one. But I tell her I have this car to put money into. And my dad has an old '62 ford unibody pickup with a small block chevy in it that I can have. All it realy needs is brake work. I will also be getting my grandpa's '79 F-100 that has a 460 stuffed in it. If I had to pick between getting this car restored or getting a brand new escalade or somthing like that, I'd restore it. Yes a/c and powersteering are nice, but todays cars are not my style. I'm 16 years old and I'm somehow stuck in the '60's. Quads the same way. I'd rather ride a worn out '87 250r than a brand new $8,000 700 raptor. IDK why. I guess it's just how I was brought up. I wouldn't change a thing :thumbsup: .

26" spinners? Lift kit? I'd rather launch the car off a cliff than put that shit on it. Sorry, But cars set up like that look so stupid . I does not realy bother me unless it is done to a classic car. If ur gonna do that, buy a cadillac or somthin...

I need a new chain and kinda on a budget since I'm about to start x/c. So, do I realy have to have an o-ring shain? I can get a non o-ring for about 25 bucks.