Washburn

Yeah rite, and if you dont have the hoses to run yet buy like 4 foot just to be safe and cut off what you dont need. Heres a tip out of a book I just wrote setting up carb hoses for dummies. If the hoses are a bit too small to fit like mine were take a lighter and heat them up TIP: AWAY FROM THE CARBS!!!!!!! Then stick em on, take a razor and cut off slack. Bingo bango, drain lines! Just jokin on the dummies thing btw, I have a playing guitar for complete idiots book and I still cant make much sence out of it!!!!! Lick my balls if your laughing at me BTW. You try playing an electric guitar without knowing tabliture(sp)

I have a brand new 13th front and 41th sprockets still in package a brand new motion pro clutch cabel, and brand new black and blue kick ass evo grips Ill just send em shoot me a pm. Might take me a week or two to get up my land and get it though. I have head bolts as well if I can find them along with a shit ton of fender screws motor bolts, random nuts and bolts from a LT250R A good straight drain plug for banshee, probably some other stuff too. How old is this thread? MAY??????? are you guys still doing this? Is it done? If not.... shoot me a pm if you need anything I listed.

Since your close and all you should go through Cody at Buchanan Racing. His shop is rite off of 208. Real close to my place. We are old riding buddies. He will get you the best price and talk you through your setup. Hes a pro GNCC Racer himself. I used to work with him for a bit and I got a few people on this board Elkas through him. They were all happy. Definatly your best route. He will get you some nice Lonestar A Arms too or other brands.Thats what I have and recomend LONESTAR Racing +2+1. I know he doesnt deal with wicked or ASR. He will ship to you if you cant make it hes just not doing anything out of state anymore and Im not there to ship anything so... 814-786-7776 Ask for Cody Cheapest way to go for all of your parts too. Just tell him you know Neil.

Looking for any stock Banshee parts? A Arms front shocks + rear shock great condition. Stock steering stem with billit 1 1/8 bar clamps with Renthal Fat Bars (Brand new never used EVO Grips) also great condition. Stock Carbs complete with TORS and extra jets. Brand new in package front Sun-- 13th front sprocket and JT 41th rear. PM me or just say not intrested in reply.

tourque them down to 18-20 ft lbs by the numbers. Ride for an hour or two and retorque if necassary.

You have to push the throttle in all the way while your kicking to get an accurate compression reading, and you have to have the rite adaptor it should be a little shorter than the spark plug NOT LONGER! But now is the time foryou to rebuild and do everything rite. When your done with the rebuild Learn how to properly jet your carbs, keep your air filter clean make sure your not sucking mud/water/dirt into your motor, and it will last you a good long time. First I recomend buying a Clymers manual, then get a bucket with seprate compartments for all of the nuts and bolts you take off that sucker and label all of them. Thats how you learn. Keep it clean.Take everything to a reputable mechanic IE your Pistons,gaskets,head,clyinders to get bored and honed, and your crank and have him look at it to see if it needs rebuilt. Take your time and do it rite. Its pays off in the end, believe me.

Porting without a question is your best bet for much more power and reliability. A coolHead is worth the investment too, so is a billit timing Plate and a set of aftermarket reeds. Youde be realy suprised at how much diffrence a +4 degree advance gives you and its still very reliable and the reeds really spped up acceleration and adds a boost thoughout the powerband. Its all about the $$$ though. I put on all of the bolton power mods and Im pretty damn happy with the power I have. no port job yet.

IDK, Im at 48 and most quads on the AWRCS circut are pretty damn close to exactly that. No I never raced in a sacintoind race but Ive woods raced and Ive Never triped over my +2+1, I wouldnt of had them any shorter. Perfection with the suspension.

your steerproblem is directly related to them wheel spacers and the fact that your much wider cause of the axle doesnt help. Like said get +2+1 A Arms. They are great for woods and it does not make it too wide at all. GET 4130 Chromoly a arms. That is the only way to go as far as strength. Alot of companys offer a huge warentee on bending them which is almost impossible. check my sig for what a true woods quad/XC Harescramble should be. Also get Fasst Flexx bars they run around $320.00 but that is gonna help your steering as much as a wider front end and good suspension. Trust me I wish I would have bought them earlier. Get the a arms and the Flexx bars first. Then suspension can really hit your wallet depending on how good you want to go. With suspension you get what you pay for. I highly recomend Elka second choice Custom Axis. Works shocks are always stiff and they arent a huge improvement. though some will argue that, just take my word. I race and I race and practice mostly, with pro and highly expirenced riders. GT Thunder revalves and resprings 450 shocks better than any set of works. Thats gotta say something rite there. For the low/mid power again like stated get a Noss Head with 20cc domes and get a billit timing plate and set it at +4 and for faster acceleration get some aftermarket reed I really like my V Force 3s that will pick up from low to top alllllllllll the way through the pipe with no dead spots and you can get away with pump gas more than likely but talk to David Noss about that he will answer all of your questions and then some hes a great guy and very knowledgeable. WWW.NOSSMACHINE.COM (Hes also a site sponcer and he has the best coolheads in the biz). I like PT Mids and Pro Circuts for a trail pipe though FMFs are pretty good too. I love my trinity 2:1 carb setup with a single 35 PWK I dident get it just for ease of jetting I got it cause the setup works wonders in the tight trails. 400ex throttle setup does really help so I hear. I know Ill be getting one soon here. Think about what you wanna do and come back and let us know. there are PMs here too anybody in this thread will answer any questions in the open fourm, best way, or via PM.

We think alot alike. Does "killa" live near Pittsburgh Butler or venango county. Ill gladly smack him down on the ground. and the only people to second guess ME dont know me.

Yeah theres no way in hell an Elka shock and linkage is 850! no way! I payed 500 for the linkage and 850 for the rear LT Elite wich was a good deal but thats a hookup, usualy its 535 for the linkage and 850 for the rear shock that matches the linkage with comp/rebound only then the Elite is 1300 alone. The linkage is great and it allows you to convert to long travel in the rear for a higher ground clearence wich is huge for any Banshee and it doesnt buck as it would without the linkage if you run your rear end into a big rut, it just soaks it up instead of lifting the whole rearend up when your manuvering in and out of technical unkept ground. I have my shocks valved for professional XC Racing I can truley say the linkage makes a huge diffrence over just a shock on stock linkage. Even though it doesnt look like a huge diffrence when you mount Elkas linkage to replace your stock linkage it does. I have the std travel fronts and the rear LT setup and it works out to be a perfect combo.

Douglas Beadlocks are hands down the toughest wheel out there today. I still like the Hipers though but talk about expensive.. DAMN!

I dident take it to "post here". And I felt like it, thats my genaral attitude to people who ask stupid questions.

Ill get closer up next time. Fasst Flexx bars with BLUE Elastometers On a +1 up LSR Steering Stem antivibe 1 1/8th clamps BTW Blue(soft) Yellow(Medium) Red(Stiff) Black (Hard) and finaly a Turbo LT80:)

yeah, rite on, Im in.

So you have big bore cylinder sleeves in there? A Noss Head is the best head to get and you will see a noticable diffrence in lowend and it will bump up the compression throught your whole RPM range so no dead spots whatsoever. I have 20cc domes and +4 timing on pump gas. but 18cc domes and +7 timing will realllllllly wake it up but you would need to run straight race fuel. VF3 reeds are great and they add way fast acceleration. I have and love them as well.

What is all needed for the trailtech Vapor to be installed? and how much am I looking at?

The diffrence is night and day my friend. Try it and see for yourself. and ned go with the 14 degree woods bend, thats the most popular bend and its that way for a reason. You cant go wrong with the 14 woods bend.

Hell yes I told you guys youde love them. I put the blue elastometers in I believe in order of stiffness its RED,BLACK,BLUE,YELLOW. Mine came with a booklet that explains everything. You can get a diffrent color crosspad too for like 15 bucks. Check ebay for those or fasstco.com

Dont go with anything DUNE, Your riding trails and thats how your motor should be setup. You want good low and mid with a decent topend that doesnt react like a lightswitch that keeps pulling and pulling. Talk to a builder of your choice and let him know what you want. I highly recomend Jim at Passion Racing for a LOW/MID 4mil trail monster.

Cool Ill try your way Ohio, I think it needs cleaned is all. Thanks SWR too Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit 19.99 Total 27.98 Not bad. Fuck going oldschool on this. Too many hours pumping with NO happy ending

Thats exactly what I did for 2 hours. Fiddeled around did the same thing for 2 hours the next day. IDK.. It cant take that long to build pressure in that line for fluid to start comming out. No good break after all of that. My fronts were eayser than this.

This weekend I went to put new rear pads in and I uncorked the banjo bolt for some reason and fluid started comming out and air went in Obviously. Now I have no pressure taping the rear break lever. So I put everything back together, Piston is moving freely. I started taping the rear break lever 6 or so times them holding down the lever and cracking the bleeder. NO LUCK. NO FLUID. NO NOTHING. So I took the bleeder screw all the way out, undid the caliper and let it sit with the open valve facing down so fluid would come out. I did this for 3 hours NO FLUID. I cleaned it blew air in it????????? Im at a loss. HELP!!!!!!!

Damn dude if you havent figured it out by now IDK what to tell you ass. Look its made from real ball skin, and more importantly whats inside they are hard to get you have to be in the know. Mabey your better off on a 400ex ?????ehhhhhhhhhhh

Your rite, they are worth it and I cant wait to get mine. That being said you cant say that your not only paying for the pegs your paying for the name. Roll Design makes great stuff but they also make stuff equal to alot of other companys and they want the $$$$ more because of name recognition. A Roll Design ATV is either for a sponcered rider or a rider with deep pockets. Thats the truth. Hey Brandon, how about some sort of universal heelguard design for all types of Nerf Bars??? Alot of R&D There.