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moneybags

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Everything posted by moneybags

  1. so I cleaned out my PM box... should work now. I dont have any port timing specs...
  2. Selling my 10 mill cub set up. Cylinders have been drag ported my Nate McCoy. Comes with good WSM pistions, Domes, and case ported cases trenched for a 10mill crank. The cases have no damage to them. Everything is good and came apart running. Cylinders are polished also 900 for everything.
  3. Could try turning in the air screws alittle to help ritchen up the bottom end. If that helps you will still need to ajust your main jets.
  4. I dont know what the rules are for buying leaded race fuel. Just walk in with cash and walk out with it. I have never had any problems buying it.
  5. When you say inner race, are you talking about the groove for the half clip that helpes like the cases up?
  6. I put one of those gas cap vents on the clutch cover brether tube. It looks much better then a screw and will alow the cover to breath one way, and like said befor. One less ugly hose running around the motor. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Short-Gas-Cap-Vent-Hose-YFZ450-Raptor-Banshee-Warrior-/140399547046?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b07712a6
  7. Yea, just throw alittle lube in there, should keep her from squeaking to much.
  8. Yea, I use the Magnum's.
  9. The pipes you have now are fine. I would not worry about the pipes for now. I would not suggest buying or even using the bored out stock carbs your talking about. I would look for a set of 33 PWK's. There are 2 ways you can up the compression. First is to have your stock head shaved down some depending on your elevation. Second is to buy a aftermarket Noss head or Chariot head. Having the stock head shaved will be cheeper. The good thing about going with a aftermarket head is that it will help your motor run cooler. It also gives you the abilty to chang domes, and what not. plus the look cool as shit. Both are site sponcers aswell.
  10. keep the pipes you have for now. Work on getting rid of that 2 into 1 carb set up. Once you have the right carbs, get them cylinders ported, timing plate, and up the compression.
  11. Pretty sure this is the same bike. If so, it turns heads.
  12. Is this a cheetah motor or a cub?
  13. What yamaha dealer do you work at? I am local to the Sacramento airea. You ever been out to the Marysville track with your cub befor?
  14. Can you provide some more info? Carb size, override type, times at the track, porting, who built it. etc etc
  15. still have them, Anybody want to go fast?
  16. You can also pick up the back or the quad with the grab bar and drop it. Be careful starting the bike after the float sticks.
  17. What do you need to know about these carbs... I have used Lectrons in the past. IMO they are convient, but dont have the abilty to to be fine tuned like a PWK carb does
  18. Thanks for the info TNTS355
  19. Just like the title says. I have a set of 39 pwk carbs that have been bored out to 40.5 by ESR racing. Comes with Dave more power jets, billet bowls, Gravity feed. I ran these carbs on my 10mill and they ran great. $400 shipped
  20. I have a set of 39 PWK carbs that have been bored out to 40.5 by ESR, Dave More power jets, Billet bowls, setup for alky. May concider makeing a deal if they will work for you..
  21. I would run the redline stuff my self. I have used the Engine Ice for a few years. If you read the back of the bottle of Engine Ice it says, Do not to mix with any water or antifreeze. Also to make sure the motor is bone dry of coolent befor adding. I found a lot of gritty crap in my cooling system befor I found this out. You can look on their web site, if you dont believe me. Good luck finding a bottle of Engine Ice on the trail if you over heat your bike.
  22. You should post this over on ATVDR, he is a site sponcer over their. You will probly get a better responce from the cock sucker him self.
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