kojack

mine does the same thing until its warmed up. I replaced the baskett both inner and outer and it still did it. It seems like until oil is run through the clutch plates it does this quite a bit. I just pull in the clutch and tap the gass and it breaks free for me. Let me know if you get it 100 percent dialed in and what it took to fix it. You know on my aftermarket clutch all the steels are perfectly round. In a tusk kit or stock clutch the steels are not round and i heard that the offsize helps the clutch break free easier. If its driving you crazy you might try the steels that arent round. Good luck erik

check for spark first, if there is spark then check the slides on the carbs to be sure they are in the right sides and check that the choke tube between the carbs is in place. Check the cable going to the slides to be sure its not hung up somewhere. I would start there first. good luck

i have had that happen with my throttle cable sticking a little. it would idle high until the cable let the slide completely seat. Might want to check the slides and see if their opening together. Another thing to check is the cable where it splits in two has both ends pushed all the way in their hole. Good luck

I will be sure to pass the info on to him. Dont have to much fun pokin at him hes new banshees to.

thats what i thought, my clymer manual makes no reference to timing the 2 but does mention matching them. thanks for the input

we just replaced my clutch basket with abillet one and i have been riding it with no problems. A buddy of mine says you have to time the primary drive gear to the primary driven gear (mounted on the clutch housing). Does anyone know about this. It seems to run fine and i didnt align the 2. ANy thoughts?

I doubt it. I wouldnt or i would have to rejet after climbing some of these hills around here. Worse case is you run a hair richer.

there is a ridge in the seal, the only way you can properly get it in there is to split the case. if you find the kind that dont have a ridge and that work right send me the link and i will buy some.

do a plug chop and make sure your not running lean. Mine does that all the time after hill climbs when my radiator is first filled. After it does that a couple of times it stopps doing it. Check your antifreeze level after riding but your probably fine. Do you have a temp gauge? You might want to get one to help monitor the heat. Mine would show 160 to 170 on the temp gauge and spit over on my pipe like your describing.

one more thing, ,mine would do the glow plug effect your getting as well. Thats what makes it not turn off even when you kill the switch. Lots of fun huh. If it happens putt your hand over the carba and starve the engine of air to kill it. Do you have the tors removed?

check your slides in the carbs for the cable binding a little. I have had that happen where the cable wasnt seated all the way in the cap and would run goofy like you described. Good luck- Erik

yes you have to split the case. My buddy had his carbs running to rich on one side and we used the carb sync I got from FAST and dialed them in better. When we finished the heavier smoking on one side had gone away. Is your pipe spitting out oil? I had a crank seal go bad and it would spit oil and ran super thick blue smoke out of the right pipe.

got er done, adjusted the bowls 2mm leaner, cleaned the airpods and outerwears- probably the real culprit, and runs great now. Thanks for the input.

good question, he keeps taking it to a stealership. I will ask him again where it is cracking and post it. Thanks

My friend has a 98 shee and has gone through 6 stators in the past year. They keep cracking, i havent looked over his setup but has anyone had issues with them cracking and what the solution is?

Carbs are spotless, I just cleaned the tank before a trip with big red and it ran great in wyo.

Yo red No its not the alky but my woods quad. Alky is running fine. I think the guy who mentioned float bowl heights is correct. I did screw with those last winter when i had a seeping issue with my bowl gaskets. Im probably the problem- should elimintae myself and would be fine. just kiddin. I will test tomorrow. Carbs are clean, fresh plugs, and the plug chop on the 270's had a faint 1mm ring. Hows lefty

I will try this tomorrow. I think you have it pegged. Thanks

Heres the scoop elevation 4000ft 270mains, 25pilot, 3rd clip runs like a champ at the mountains we ride at on the flats. You can shift through all gears with plenty of power and no lull. Take it in the hills and do a steep hill climb and when you get to the top it runs like crap. It will pull the hill all the way to the top no problem. If you sit for a second, put it in first and try to roost it just sputters for about 4 to 5 seconds the starts to pull itself out of it. It never used to do this last year. I was running a 280 main and thought its loading up since the air temp has gone up 30 degrees. So i dropped in the 270 and no change. When i did a plug chop today the 270 is lean. Did a compression check and their both at 155. Any thoughts. Thanks

does anyone know where to ride by bozeman mt thats legal? If anyone lives there and wants to ride next week let me know. Thanks

if you could get your gasket to work great but that side of the engine isnt that big of a deal. YOur just keeping dirt out of the flywheel.

my buddies was acting about the same until he blew it up. The vent tube on his gass cap was plugged with sand so it would run fine then just puke out when it leaned out. Eventually it grenaded out. Is it just when your quad is warmed up but not before?

type plug chop not just plug.

sounds rich, do a plug chop. Here is a link and if you go to search and type plug you can read other forums. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html good luck

is it running smokey on the right side as well?