400ccStroker_shee

I don't now what these are worth but the are pratically brand new

I have some stock parts off a 2006 banshee for sale stock head approx 5 hrs on everything stock front shocks stock a arms stock axles stock pipes and silencers make some offers or call me at 909-239-2546 ask for chris I can get some pics later

Thanks bro I didn't have time to search!!! I'll search next time!!! Sorry for any inconvience.

What are the torque specs for the cylinders, I forgot!!!! I know the head torque specs are 22 ft lbs Thanks for the help!!!

its not so much the seat height is were the bars sit make it feel higher than the yfz.

heres my opinion on thr lt-r vs the yfz. In stock form! I have a yfz and my brother n law has a lt-r he's a little lighter then me about 50 lbs lighter he's 170, I'm 220. We are equally skilled riders. We raced several times and in stock form the yfz pulls by 1 to 2 bike lenghts. Now my brother in law put a cherry bomb and yoshi rs-5 full exhaust with spark arrestor out and no air box lid vs my yfz without an air box lid with K&N with billet adapter without the screen in the air box, spark arrestor out of stock exhaust and rejetted. The yfz pulled until about the beginning to middle of 4th gear then the lt-r gained a lot of power up top. Probably 3-4 bike lenghts. Next I was going to retard the exhaust cam on the yfz and thats suppose to give you more power up top with little bottom end scarafice. Now with that said my brother n law has spent about 650 dollars between the exhaust and cherry bomb and I only spent about 125 dollars for some jets and k&n with billet adaptor. After I retard the cam If I beat him the only mod that I spent money on is the K&N the bike is still pretty much stock, imagine with an aftermarket exhaust probably acouple more HP's. My opinion is both quads are good, I prefer the yfz because the power delivery feels strong all the way from bottom to top, the lt-r power delivery feels way to smooth for my comfort, I like to feel the power hit a little hard, thats probably because of my love for 2 strokes!!!! The lt-r sits a lttle too high for my comfort, but the lt-r has the better suspension feels softer and easier on the body for track or dunes. It's all going to come down to personal perferences and I hope this helps you in some way, if there is any other info you would like to know you can give me a shout and I'll help you to the best of my knowledge vs the 2 I have no idea with the kfx450 sorry!!

you can get custom graphics from huntgraphic.com You can send him a pics of what u want and he can make it for the banshee, the pricing I don't know because the guy sponsors my son, so I get discounts

Did u get those look a like skat trak off ebay. Are they any good? I was thinking about getting some for my wifes yfz450, I have some skat trak haulers and their pretty light.

My brother has fmf fatties and power core 2's with the airbox completely cut off and he is running 310 mains and 27.5 pilot and everything else is stock and he's a little rich at glamis, your plugs look a little rich if your looking at the porclein part it looks a little rich. looking at the pics again it looks like 1 plug is ok and the other is rich, that could be because carbs arent in sync

the tsr software you can google and just call the guy he is awesome, he has many different programs for different aspect in performance, the 2 programs I'm interested in are the port2000 and the new pipe program.

heres another one!!!!!

you can get some awesome porting tools at ccspecialtytool.com and cant really tell you how to port the transfers because that depends on what you did to the rest of the cylinder and what type of power you want, I know this because I'm starting to do all my own porting, I've read a lot of helpful material for macdizzy's 2 stroke page just goggle it, it has how to do cylinder mapping. I think in a week or so I'm going to order the tsr 2 storke porting software. Hope this helps u a little, I'm still a beginer with porting.

well I'm tring to become someone who does good port jobs, I'm willing to learn whatever it takes. I was told tsr software was the best. what is cad and cfd. Thanks for all the input!

Thanks for the info, I've been reading all macdizzy's stuff, thats where I got that boost bottle post but everyone here thinks he's an idiot.

i have all the equipment i need and the only way to get good is to do it, a lot of people try to discourage me from doing my own porting, but everyone has to start sometime, my plan is to get really good and open my own shop.

I'm looking to start doing all my own porting and was thinking about buying the tsr 2 stroe porting software, has anyone used it, and is there any better software out there??

you guys are stupid. I do use a boost bottle, I didnt really feel a hp increase but I didnt feel a decrease either and it looks better than the stock tube. I just put that info out there because some people like info like that to make their own decision weather they want a boost bottle or not. any there is always someone out there that has to make a stupid ass comment. I'm also pretty sure that they didnt design the boost bottle to hurt the performance.

he's right fatties with polished pc 2's

i found this info while searching on the internet because I'm trying to learn how to do my own porting! Boost Bottle How does a Boost Bottle improve performance? Air rushes thru the carb on the intake cycle. Ignition accelerates the piston down, forcing the reeds to snap shut. The momentum (inertia) of the air has to go someplace. It goes back thru the carb causing a double rich mixture. The result can be rough idle or hesitation. Due to the high velocity of the fuel air mixture through the carb boot, we need to take advantage of this momentum/inertia energy. The Boost Bottle and tube provide storage for the fuel air mixture between carb boots. The energy (pulse) forces the pre-atomized mixture in the tube from the previous cycle into the adjoining carb boot where the reeds are just opening and ready to receive the fuel air mixture. The boost bottle and tube provide a "boost" supercharge effect to each cycle. The boost bottle is most effective at lower and mid-range rpm, and, when you are on & off the throttle. It assists in filling the cylinder (shorter distance) for a fraction of a second until the carburetor venturi gets enough velocity to fully atomize the fuel. The advantage is that it brings up the torque and horsepower in the bottom of the rpm range, up to where the pipe(s) starts to work. There is a small benefit at high rpm's. What Size? Singles = usually the CC of one cylinder or larger. 700cc Twins = 300cc boost bottle. 700cc Triples = 225cc. Variables: Engine CC's, Carb Size, RPM below pipe, Number of cylinders. Large carbs like larger bottles/tubes. Triples like smaller due to less time between pulses. I use the TSR computer software to calculate the Boost Bottle for a specific set up. Yes they work, when the size is right, the inertia of the air is stored like a spring in the boost bottle to help charge the next cycle. Try tuning a Yamaha Phazer without it's boost bottle! Power valve engines may not have similar performance gains because the valves will keep the bottom end crisp. Testing w/ powervalves will probably show gains off idle and low bottom end. Is it worth it?? That depends on what you are willing to pay for some torque and a couple of horses! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I haven't had one break yet on my shee or yz250, i think there awesome reeds

need some alky carbs, looking for 35mm to 39 mm dual carb set up for alky. kehlin or mukini!

looks awesome!!!

The crank is trued and welded, so it sounds like 35 pwk's and still deciding on the pipe. one more question, i heard with mukini carbs they can go back and forth between gas and alky?

I ride sand only. my mods are an stock bore, aggressive dune port, +6 timing, pro design coolhead with 21cc domes, for right now I have fmf fatties with powercore 2's, but I was thinking of switching to shearers or cpis. Thanks guys if you can help me with what type of carbs would be best for me and other mods that would help this thing scream!!! For right now I just want to keep the bore and stroke stock!!!

I was thinking of switching from gas to alky, what do I have to do? Does is require different porting from an aggressive dune port? Carbs? Anything else? I can use all the help you guys can hook me up with.