SlowerThanYou

Not to take anything away from Tedder's stock stroke cub, it's on alky. I run low 10's on race gas. As for both Tedder's and my times we don't advertise them anymore.

I've been very luck in my 30 year racing career to learn from a lot of people. I'm not new to the game and I know you didn't mean it that way. We have made around 700 1/4 mile runs on our quad over 4 years time. Most of our Motorsports experience we used on the science project.

I would send you a PM, but I'm unable.

Here's another one. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

I can give more references. http://www.stockcarracing.com/tipstricks/camber_caster_toe_setup/index.html

I don't want to disagree, but my references is positive caster is for straight line stability.

It really depends how much power you have, wheelie bar or not, and rider weight. That's just to name a few items to consider. From a safety stand point I would rather see +14-15 degrees of caster built in for straight line stability.

It works great, but there's some cons to the system. You need to have the program software (around $100) to adjust your limiter, shift points and of course the curves. Depending on the year of you quad, all the features might not be available.

We use a auto meter shift light activated with a dyna ignition. I haven't heard of a way to do it with a stock ignition. I don't remember before, during or after the accident. They said I went off a razor back at full throttle and landed nose first with the quad. I have mulitple breaks in the back and ribs. I broke my cheek/my front teeth, had stitches and of course a severe concusion. I spent 3 weeks in the trama/ICU and got pneumonia and almost died. Almost 5 months later and not working. I'm still pretty jacked up! I'm so lucky in many many ways!!!

Dave, I would like to add to your reply, but it wouldn't be very nice! I'm sure the member is trying to stir the pot with his comment. Here's a little clue for him, All Terrain Vehicles(ATV's).

Guess you didn't hear about my accident. I darn near lost my life in Apr on the sand. I'm pretty jacked up still, but getting better.

If you look closely there's one on our Banshee. Some may think it's a waste, but not us. http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/BL...innerMedium.jpg

The base elevation at Glamis including the surrounding dunes is 200'-500' above sea level. The base elevation of Tucson, AZ is 2,300'.

There's about 2,000' of elevation difference between the 2 locations. That's more than enough to affect the tune-up.

I forgot it had stock cases also.

9.37 @ 130 someting, 18mm DM/stock frame.

Hey it's slowerthanyou (aka 1700camaro) and yes dajogerjr I have been having some discussion on the subject. You can do a pretty good job of initial clutch slippage and lock-up management with a standard lock-up system. There are better systems out there, but some killer fast times have been layed down with some basics. Now for manually letting the clutch lever out slowly or in a controlled manner is nothing but correct practice. You also have to feed in the proper amount of throttle along with the clutch. Your 60' time will tell you if your doing it correctly.

The shorter the distance will be an advantage in your situation. 1/4 mile is for very few and that's why there's very few doing it. We have run low 10s on a 100hp gas cub and also have a basically stock banshee. The stock banshee only has T-5 pipes, cool head, struts and asphalt tires. It has run 13.20 something at a slow track with 14/41 gearing. We have ran other gearing and it slows down. Best ET in the 1/4 came with it hanging it's lungs out in 6th before the 1/8 mile. I don't recommend this for the inexperienced 1/4 mile person.

We run a ceramic ball and have 600-700 runs on it with out failure. For some reason I didn't go with the pancake bearing.

Mutli-stage photo I hope. http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/BL.../Lock-up001.jpg

I can post a photo again, I'm sure I've ready done that. I think the only person allowed to sell them is Chuck Wilburn and they are pricey. I'm not so sure if that's what you really need for the price. The basic principles work on the standard lock-up, but you do have and additional option with the multi-stage.

Matt, First and foremost you are doing some research and keeping a open mind. There are people in the sport using internal clutch slippage initially then locking up the clutch progressively as they go down the track. I have friends and know others and even attend the events. They are using other motorsports technology and using it successfully and they keep it secret. Like anything it will eventually filter down to the other classes. Anyway, it will eat up the clutches and there are modifications to slow the process. BTW we are getting around 70 clutch runs on asphalt after starting with only 2-5 runs. The more you know the longer they last. Our sand set-up is doing good, but I don't have the exact amount but's around 50 hill runs with a fairly new used asphalt clutch. I can look up the asphalt runs if needed. Bryan

Ok what realistic ET would you like to see out of my combination with a 170-220lb rider. I have never run 300' specifically on sand or dirt. Looks like we will run the Planet Sand Race in Nov. at AVI with me riding or my buddy.

OK Dave, I will try and simplify this even though I'm the severe 300' sand underdog here according to you. I think your brother or someone took your quad to Planet Sand and it ran great times. If that person was at least 175lbs, why not use them time slips as the standard and I normally weigh 215-220. I think that puts everything in your favor.

I already admitted I was wrong, that's more than most can do!