SlowerThanYou

I got it now.

Have you actually ran asphalt? You are from South CA. from what I understand, I don't see too many quads running out here! We have been running 300' sand for the past year, but our background is asphalt. We are back to racing asphalt this coming weekend & in 3 weeks. I wouldn't mind racing with another quad.

Next year, haven't decided on a schedule yet.

I was there with the quad to race in 2010, rain busted the racing. I will be there in the future with it for another try.

Both & the standard for asphalt is 330' for short runs.

We run between 4 - 6 lbs. tire pressure & most of the time around 5 lbs. is the sweet spot. We use 5 as the baseline & tweek it in .1 increments for the track conditions. The closer you get to 4 lbs. the more unsafe things become. As for a burnout we very rarely do one, but it has it's place & time with other adjustments having to be made. We use a dry hop the majority of time. Occassionally we do nothing but go around the water, wipe the debri from the tires and stage. Butt placement on the seat for the conditions is sometimes help full. I agree with Wheelman! 3 springs is not a good way of going about this. If you are resorting to that, there are most likely problems in the clutch or in another area(s). As for measuring total spring pressure. We use both ways to measure; one at a time or all 6. All 6 is the easiest, but we don't have that set-up in our trailer. Someone is catching on to the basics. We shim at the lock-up end. The air gap will change as the clutch wears. As long as it's within specifications. I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm not saying this isn't important for us and we do different things to control, adjust the airgap & fine tuning of the clutch set-up. I consider this area for the experienced clutch tuner's.

Wow, I must say I appreciate the thanks! I was starting to wonder if anyone was actually doing something with this information. Keep up the good work & the 60's will lower. What surface(s) are you running on? Here's another thread started by someone else that has a lot of good information in it. Be advised it also has drama in it, from some people not understanding clutch tuning. Copy anything & repost, but please leave the drama there. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117576

***Note*** I can't stress enough, you need to be able to read the pressure in 1lb. increments. Yes, we use dial calipers to get our installed height when checking pressure. There are various reasons we do that for, one being the installed hieght changes with clutch wear. Question of the day. Where do you start out with spring base/static pressure? If you are currently running a combination & it's not burning up clutch's. 1st order of buisness is to baseline what you have. Make adjustments in either direction & analyze the data you recieve. The quad will tell you what it wants. Just like tuning a carb, you have to determine what it wants. Now for a new motor combo what do we do? Error on the high side for the set-up. I'll try & give an example. Someone has a 4mm cub with 3 light & 3 heavy springs. I don't like using them terms, but that's how the majority describe their spring pressure. Now they want or are building a DM or DMX. I would go back & baseline or pressure test the 4mm springs. If it was set-up correctly you should have to increase the base/static pressure.

You are correct & can lose some clutchs also. Google "valve spring tester" I found 2 different ones pretty easy. One is digital & the other traditional needle. Both read in 2 lb. incriments. I prefer the needle pointer it's easy to split the marks to get a reading down to 1 lb.

X3, you have to get the plug(s) reading right 1st for heat & mixture. Then you use the plug reading/EGT temp for the baseline.

This discussion has been going on for about 5 years here. It has been pretty entertaining, what most don't want to believe. This is the 1st thread that doesn't have any drama in it & people seem to be grasping the concepts. My background is 1/4 mile asphalt drag racing. I have only dealt with torque converters & had to learn the clutch for the Banshee to run 1/4 mile. The majority of my clutch information came from this background & some other areas. That's one of the reasons I posted the Crower information at the beginning of this thread. There are other areas in drag racing that we are applying to our quads. We have using some & still have more to test. It's amazing how much stuff transfers/works on our drag quad. I think people are catching on to the basic clutch concepts.

I don't know what tester you are looking at? The one I use only goes to 100 lbs. The smallest increment is 2 lbs, but it's easy to figure out down to 1 lb.

Lets start with you 1st paragraph. You stated you are using 3 stiff & 3 light springs, are they both Barnett's? I have not used either the MSD or Dyna with the stock cdi. We use the Dyna programable ignition with a built in launch limiter. people are using the Dyna DRL-300 with the Banshee cdi. I think it would be a nice addition to your program. I would not worry about it too much at your spring pressure. It still should be checked with your clutch mainenance. IMO, you should baseline your current spring pressure. You might has some improvements with lower pressure yet, depending on your baseline. We have ran cryo'd & non cryo'd steel plates. There's is nothing wrong with the cryo'd, but I would save your money. I agree with Wheelman & we prefer heat cycled steel plates with the proper finish. Now, for the aluminum plates we prefer to have them cryo'd & coated. It's pretty much needed for durability. We use a 2" or 3" Roloc disc with different grades of scotch pad & sometimes different grades of sand paper Roloc disc. We have been pretty agressive some times with the finish. Most situations only need a fine or med scotch pad finish.

PSDA is thinking about having a race Nov. 2012 in Kingman, AZ.

Cat got your tongue Sunshine! I guess you have no answers to the truth.

Great questions, I should have time to answer them this weekend.

Hint, just a wag; 90 percent or better are using too much base pressure for drag racing.

"your mouth" You are pretty funny sunshine! I'm just taking your BS & throwing it back in your face. If you don't like the truth about yourself, that's your problem. As for meeting me face to face. How many times do I need to come back East to your back yard? Seems like I've ran about 6 tracks there, including 3 days at Dorchester. I thought that was your home track? I surely didn't see your smiley face there greeting me. It wasn't kept a secret when & where I was running with plenty of lead time. Let me guess, your 1.18 60's & low 5s in the 1/8 mile was too fast to show up & obliterate the 1/8 mile record. Still waiting on your tuning skills to show.

This Douchebag goes under different names on atv sites. His posts are all the same BS. That's why he deleted the B9EGV plug picture after stating it was a B9ES. Sandman, you & other's are on to his no knowledge Bull Shit.

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink. He doesn't get it! The same as his ignorance on clutch chatter & breaking clutch plates.

Your spark plug picture part # doesn't match "another B9ES just snapped in half" description.

We use the programable Dyna & it works great for us. We use it as a tuning tool in making compromises in our set-up to get the lowest ET we can for the set conditions. As for our dyno tune, that set-up doesn't result in our quickest ET or MPH.

I'm not vouching for this stock curve being right, it's similar to what dyna calls the stock curve. The Dyna has 13 degrees @ 10,000 rpm & flat lines that to 17,100 rpm. Stock http://www.atvdraggers.com/forum//index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=2925

Pretty much summed up by the other two poster's.

Detonation & that plug is showing pieces of piston on it also.